Might buy some tanks

[fishoutawater]

A friend of mine mentioned that he has two Al80's for sale. Says they're brand new, never used, but he bought them some years ago and they probably need to be hydro'd and vip'd. He says they're painted blue. I know nothing about them yet. I don't even know if there's any pressure in them. He makes a living as a hookah diver, and bought them from somebody who needed cash at the time.
So, what should I look for as far as tanks to avoid, code markings, date stamps etc. And how much should I offer if I do make an offer? Says he paid $100 apiece for them. BTW, what's the median price for vip and hydro these days?

 

[Hank49]

I wouldn't think they'd need to be hydro'd if they've never been used. If my terminology is correct, isn't that to test for metal fatigue caused by many times being filled? It wouldn't hurt to open them and clean them though.
As for the price, I just paid $135 plus shipping for some aluminum 80s at Scubatoys. I didn't shop around too much because I figured they'd have a competitive price.

 

[jbd]

Regardless of use, if the hydro is out then the tanks will need to be hydro'd. If the tanks are Luxfer prior to 1989 I would pass on them. Do a search for SLC or sustained load cracking.

Should be able to hydro'd as viz'd for around $25.

 

[fishoutawater]

Thanks for the reply Hank. I've never owned a tank before, always rented, but my understanding is that they have to have some kind date stamp on them so I can get an LDS to fill them for me. And from what I've been reading, you are correct about expansion cycles and such. Basically, they fill them with water, then over-pressurize them, then measure the amount of water that went into the tank during the pressurization, so they can calculate the amount of expansion. On Al tanks, if it doesn't expand enough, the metal has work hardened and has become too brittle for continued use.
And from what else I've been reading, $135 is a good price too.
I just ordered a new Mares Abyss from Scubatoys last week (old Dacor trade in), and I'm hoping it'll get here sometime this week.
Man, you LIVE in Belize? I'm so jealous.

 

[fishoutawater]

Thanks jbd. 25 bucks would make these $100 tanks still a good deal, even if I don't talk him down on the price.
I'm also toying with the idea of going ahead investing in a steel tank though, because I do have that positive bouyancy problem at the end of my dives. And I read that a steel tank would cure that.

 

[Ron Brandt]

I wouldn't think they'd need to be hydro'd if they've never been used. .

A tank hydro is law and must be done every 5 years if in use. A fill operator will not fill if out of hydro. A visual inspection is a scuba industry thing and is done every year...most if not all scuba shops will not fill if the vis not current.

You will see the manufactures hydro stamp (all tanks are hydroed beore delivery when new... at the plant) on the neck. Consult your Open Water Diver manual for the markings as most manuals clearly teach this.

You can take the tank to your local lds and have it hydroed or toa facility that handles fire extinguishers. Most scuba shops send the tanks out and put their mark-up on them. Expect to pay between 20-50 dollars for the hydro and around $ 20 for a vis.

I reciently purchased a steel tank from a garage sale that still had the origional hydro and visual inspection sticker. This tank is 34 years old and was never used into it's second hydro by indication of all markings. When I took the valve off, the inside looked as clean as a new tank ! The tank also passed hydro.

Ron

 

[Jibeho]

In the off season I have seen AL80s for as cheep as $119 at a LDS. This time of year they tend to go up a few bucks. I would say if they guy is in the $80-$100 range, still have some gas in tham and if they are not to old go for it. Anymore then a C note buy them new.

 

[Wayward Son]

I would not pay $100 for used AL tanks that are out of hydro. About $80 is the most I will pay for a used one that is in hydro, with a current VIP and at least some pressure so i don't have to pay for another VIP. By the time you pay for hydro & VIP, assuming they pass, you will have matched or exceeded the cost of brand new tanks. And you haven't even considered servicing the valves. If they're a few years old, getting them serviced is a good idea. O rings don't last forever & some are inside where you can't get to them.

Any AL tank made prior to 1988 may result in shops refusing to fill them, regardless of their ability to pass hydro and VIP+, so they're a much greater financial risk & thus worth less money. Down to nothing, if you don't have a shop that will service & fill them.

 

[fishoutawater]

Thanks guys.
Let's assume the worst. No pressure, but manufactured in say, mid '90's, out of hydro. How much would you offer, (assuming I can find a fairly local place to inspect and service them)?

 

[Wayward Son]

Call around & find out what hydro & VIP will cost. Whatever that is, added to what you'll pay for the tanks, should not toal more than $80, IMO. To me, that's the threshold where I've crossed too close to the cost of a new one (my LDS sells AL80 Luxfers, with boot & fill, for $135).

They may not pass hydro and/or VIP, and the valves likely need to be serviced. FWIW, I have my valves serviced every 5 years when the hydro is done just to avoid problems, as well as any time in between one needs it due to a problem. My LDS will service a valve reasonably, typically costs me about $10 or so. Need to ask what your shops get for it.