Massive SP D350 freeflow in dive mode

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You mention it might be a while before you can take this regulator back in to be fixed. I just wanted to note that whatever shop did the work should prioritize the repair since it is so obviously their fault. Also with the propper tools this should be a 5 minute (or less) fix.

Ike

p.s. the D300 here came apart smoothly, the Mk 10 was a different story, but is up and running now.
 
Hello,

I've taken the D350 back to the tech. Attached is how the internal looked with the dive switch "up" before and after the correction--a 5-minute job indeed. As you can see in the photo, the spring was in fact on front of the lever! The latter was removed and replaced, the result of which is in the "after" photo. Before the correction, the switch was indeed pulling the lever back with it when switched to dive mode but I did not take a photo of that. (Take note that on the "after" photo, the reg was held facing upwards more than on the "before" photo, thus causing the lever to appear to point up more.)

So far, after the correction, these are my observations:
1) the freeflow on dive mode is non-existent (good news there but i'm yet to test in water).
2) after the correction but before the diaphragm was replaced, I could see that the spring retracts all the way to the back when switched to dive mode, so it doesn't look like it would come in contact with the lever at all--even if purged. Is this the design?
3)breathing on land does feel noticeably lighter in dive mode and vice versa (I think that's also good news?)

2 New questions:

1) Can anyone comment on the orientation of the lever, now? I specifically asked about this and the response from the tech was that the D400's also have the lever and spring facing each other as shown but now I want some second and third opinion from you guys.

2) I've just opened some reference docs regarding D350 assembly and see that when installing the diaphragm, you want to be sure the slot for the lever is perpendicular to the lever. What is the consequence of neglecting this step and resulting to a slot not perpendicular to the lever? (I'm posing this question because I'm not sure if this was done)

Thanks again!! *Superb* group here!


E
 

Attachments

  • beforenafter.jpg
    beforenafter.jpg
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I'll have to check the schematics when I get home tonight to see which way each one is supposed to point.

With regard to the slot for the lever, there are 4 raised dots equally spaced on the outer edge of the diaphragm. Two of them are on the extended axis of the slot and the other two are 90 degrees from it. As long as the lever is engaged in the slot and one of the dots is centered at the top underneath the dive/pre-dive switch, the slot is properly aligned. If it is off center a bit just unseat the diaphragm slightly and rotate it until the dot is centered.
 
As long as the lever is engaged in the slot and one of the dots is centered at the top underneath the dive/pre-dive switch, the slot is properly aligned. If it is off center a bit just unseat the diaphragm slightly and rotate it until the dot is centered.

What, if any, are symptoms that a user would detect and effect(s) of misalignment? I'm hesitating to make another trip to a tech if they are negligible.

Thanks again.

Eric
 
Your lever is installed from the correct side for a D300 and D350. It would be incorrect for a D400. Your tech is a little scary.
 
I don't think he likes me.
 
Mistakes happen and everyone makes one now and then, but not with your tech's phenomenal degree of consistency. If he is in doubt on something, he needs to look.
 
Mistakes happen and everyone makes one now and then, but not with your tech's phenomenal degree of consistency. If he is in doubt on something, he needs to look.

Sure, mistakes happen. But most tech mistakes should be caught during a post-repair inspection and test. This tech not only assembled it incorrectly (obviously not understanding how the design was supposed to work), but also failed to put it on a tank and verify that the regulator was working properly. Unless he thought that a violent freeflow with the lever in the dive position was what it was supposed to do!!!!
 
To answer your second question, The lever it hooks through the D shaped slot in the diaphram , if the diaphram is turned excessively (45 degrees for example) then it may be possible for the lever to pop out of the slot when being purged, or on a deep inhalation this would likely result in a freeflow as the lever would then be outside the D shaped slot and therefore pressed back. On one other note, it is hard to tell from the small photo's you posted, but is there corrosion on the lever set screw? It should be changed out as part of the standard maintenance kit, and is one of the more important things to change, particularly if there is any corrosion. There are two potential problems with not changing the set screw, first the screw/locktite may become loose and back out resulting in poor performance/ no air flow, secondly corrosion of the set screw can cause it to be permanently stuck, through corrosion of the threads, and rounding of the socket so any wrench will spin.

Ike
 
Yes, that's some corrosion you see. It was actually recently cleaned for the initial service but has worsened in the short amount of time since then (span of less than a month). I'm waiting for parts to arrive and will have that changed as soon as I get em.

Until then, I'm very tempted to remove the rubber cover to check/correct the diaphragm positioning for myself. A few questions:
1) What precautions do I need to take if I decide to give it a shot?
2) I've seen how the tech twisted and wrestled the rubber cover to remove it. Is there a certain technique for this?
3) After removal and inspection, when screwing back the diaphragm cover, how tight should this be? (hand-tight? finger tight?)
4) Would I need to make other adjustments requiring tools and air tank?
5) Anyone have a diagram to illustrate how the diaphragm should sit on the case and other steps in the process?

Thanks again.

E
 

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