After my first visit to Bangka, I refused to talk about it at all. Didn't want word getting out anymore than it had.
But so many talk about it now that I've kind of given up on trying to keep it quiet. Lol
Manado/Bunaken/Bangka?
- Thread starter Alex B
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After my first visit to Bangka, I refused to talk about it at all. Didn't want word getting out anymore than it had.
But so many talk about it now that I've kind of given up on trying to keep it quiet. Lol
My bad!!!
dirtfarmer
Contributor
It's like talking about fight club, first rule is you don't. You did, now I'm joining the club.
Hi Luko and team!
Wondering if you can please advise me on macro wet lenses?
My kit is only a 1" sensor Panasonic LX10 with Ikelite housing (67mm thread) with Inon D2000 strobe and Big Blue VL4000P vid light but thinking I should probably get a macro for the critters on my Bangka/Lembeh trip next month.
Wondering if you can advise on what powers I typically need for the kind of wonderful shots Luco is taking on nudis, pygmy seahorses and head shots (Flickr). Of course I have no illusions on being able to get similar quality with my rig and experience but looking at least for which lens to best give me similar framing options.
I understand that the higher the power the more critical the physical focussing position becomes and would want some flexibility to avoid holding up dives for such critical placement but at same time would like to be able to get macro close ups with my camera. The LX10's macro mode can capture a minimum area measuring 2.12 x 1.41 inches (54 x 36 millimeters), which is quite good compared to other 1-inch sensor models and can focus as close as 3 centimeters (~1.2") at the wide end of the lens, compared to 5cm for the RX100 V and G7X II. Max aperture is F1.4-2.8 which is equivalent in full frame to F3.8-7.6 (24-72mm focal zoom). Do you guys think a +6 diopter will be enough or do I need to really go for a +12 and won't that be too difficult for a non pro with likely a couple of other divers in the group?
If +6 any preference between the AOI UCL-05 or INON UCL-165M67?
If +12 any preference between the AOI UCL-06, AOI UCL-09 or Nauticam CMC-2? Which would you guys recommend for best balance of flexible focussing tolerance with ability to get the close up shots mentioned?
If you think one of the +12 lenses is still flexible enough to use without worrying too much about critical positioning, do I still need a +6 as well?
Many thanks
Alex
Wondering if you can please advise me on macro wet lenses?
My kit is only a 1" sensor Panasonic LX10 with Ikelite housing (67mm thread) with Inon D2000 strobe and Big Blue VL4000P vid light but thinking I should probably get a macro for the critters on my Bangka/Lembeh trip next month.
Wondering if you can advise on what powers I typically need for the kind of wonderful shots Luco is taking on nudis, pygmy seahorses and head shots (Flickr). Of course I have no illusions on being able to get similar quality with my rig and experience but looking at least for which lens to best give me similar framing options.
I understand that the higher the power the more critical the physical focussing position becomes and would want some flexibility to avoid holding up dives for such critical placement but at same time would like to be able to get macro close ups with my camera. The LX10's macro mode can capture a minimum area measuring 2.12 x 1.41 inches (54 x 36 millimeters), which is quite good compared to other 1-inch sensor models and can focus as close as 3 centimeters (~1.2") at the wide end of the lens, compared to 5cm for the RX100 V and G7X II. Max aperture is F1.4-2.8 which is equivalent in full frame to F3.8-7.6 (24-72mm focal zoom). Do you guys think a +6 diopter will be enough or do I need to really go for a +12 and won't that be too difficult for a non pro with likely a couple of other divers in the group?
If +6 any preference between the AOI UCL-05 or INON UCL-165M67?
If +12 any preference between the AOI UCL-06, AOI UCL-09 or Nauticam CMC-2? Which would you guys recommend for best balance of flexible focussing tolerance with ability to get the close up shots mentioned?
If you think one of the +12 lenses is still flexible enough to use without worrying too much about critical positioning, do I still need a +6 as well?
Many thanks
Alex
Luko
Contributor
AOI would have my preference, flat lenses are useless, you need an air gap in between the optics to give a magnifying effect.
You'd need +12 for pygmies. best around would be AOI UCL09, it's the most comfortable lens with the SMC1 for getting really small stuff thanks to its working distance.
I never had the use of a +5. If your camera can frame a 5cm without a wetlens, then it's good enough for nudis down to 3cm where they will take half of the frame while you'll fit the UCL09 for smaller.
Here's a review of the AOI UCL09 by one of my photog friends in Bali AOI UCL-09 Wetlens (and how it compares to Nauticam SMC-1)
You'd need +12 for pygmies. best around would be AOI UCL09, it's the most comfortable lens with the SMC1 for getting really small stuff thanks to its working distance.
I never had the use of a +5. If your camera can frame a 5cm without a wetlens, then it's good enough for nudis down to 3cm where they will take half of the frame while you'll fit the UCL09 for smaller.
Here's a review of the AOI UCL09 by one of my photog friends in Bali AOI UCL-09 Wetlens (and how it compares to Nauticam SMC-1)
Thanks Luko, looks like a great and cost effective lens but just wondering how flexible on physical positioning it is to get the focussing point right at that power and versus the similarly powered and priced Nauticam CMC-2 (which is a little smaller and apparently designed with compacts in mind)? Trying to find an article on that comparision but not found one yet.
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