Trip Report Mallorca Spain

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MrChen

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I live in SE Florida and flew out of Miami with Air France. My flight left on Wednesday around 4pm and we landed in Mallorca on Thursday around noon after a short layover in Paris.

Traveling to Mallorca:

Air France Check-in
I've been traveling annually for a dive trip. My gear always comes in a few pounds below the allowable. On this trip, I hand carried my flashlights, mask, and regulator. I threw some clothes in the suitcase, like rash guard shirts, athletic shorts, and spandex like underwear since I'll be wet all week. I used my scale at home and was under the 50lb limit with room to spare. I show up at check-in and they are weighing in kilograms, and the limit is 23 kilos. They tell me that I'm 4 kilos overweight. That's 59 lbs! I said let me move some stuff to my carry-on and now he wants to weigh my carry-on. My carry-on was 3kg below the allowable, a deficit of 1kg, and he tells me no, I have to pay $45. I was fuming pissed and paid it. I didn't want him to start measuring carry-on size and really make my problems worse. On the way back home, I said screw it, and put all my dive gear, clothes, and 4 bottles of alcohol in my suitcase and I was only over by a few kilograms and was not charged. This confirmed my belief that they screwed me on my flight out of Miami. Shame on you Air France.

Air France Boarding
I was in zone 3. I had an exit row which meant I couldn't put anything in the seat in front of me, so I wanted to make sure I had overhead bin space for my carry-on and personal item and got in line. They had a facial scanner that would turn green or red. If green, you continued to the plane. There's a lady standing there watching, except for when it was my turn, she decided to start socializing with a co-worker. The screen goes green and I start walking. She stops me and tells me to scan. I told her it went green and she said she didn't see it. So I scan again and now it's red. She tells me I have to get out of line and go to the counter. I argued that it went green and she didn't did care. I told her it wouldn't be a problem if she did her job. I got to the counter and explained what happened and they quickly ushered me past the scanners after a quick verification.

At this point, AF isn't doing great, and I haven't even left Miami.

The Paris Airport
I found it interesting that we had to clear immigration in Paris and not Mallorca, so I never got a Spanish stamp in my passport. After clearing immigration, which was a facial scanner followed by a person stamping passports, I was on my way to figure out where my connecting flight was. We landed in the main section of the airport, but the flight to Mallorca was in a completely different building which required a shuttle ride. I feared we left a secure area and would have to clear security again, but this was not the case. We only had 1hr 15min to get to our connecting flight and they had boards which said it would take approximately 38 minutes to get to the other building based on the shuttle schedule. We eventually found the shuttle which felt like a back-room exit of the building with multiple shuttle options splitting at the door but then going through the same door. Fortunately, the airport personnel used the split to ensure you went the right way to the correct shuttle bus. The shuttle was full, standing room only. The road was super windy, with lots of 90 and 180 degree turns. Everyone standing was struggling to stay up and hold their carry-on. It was almost comical. The straps hanging from the bar would slide around on each turn. I eventually reached up to the bar and held on to it. We eventually got to the correct building and walked down to the gate wing where our flight was to board. There were no facilities, and we had approximately 15 minutes until boarding starts. We had to walk back to the main area to find restrooms. Upon returning to the departure gate, we learned our flight was delayed due to inclement weather in Mallorca and an update would be provided in 30 minutes. This gate area was not designed to host a flight of passengers. Seating was extremely limited and again, there were not facilities. 30 minutes later we boarded and departed.

National Car Rental in Mallorca
We land, get our bags, and follow the signs to the car rental area, except there's no National desk. It's a little confusing because there's still a sign saying car rentals which points outside. Upon exiting the building, there was no obvious location for where National was. I used National because I have an upgraded corporate account with deep discounts. My cousin and I wandered around looking for the shuttle. After trying another exit which also had car rental sign, I asked a hotel shuttle where we could find car rental shuttles. He pointed 100 yards down the way to another area to the side of a multi-level parking garage. We walked through it to the left and found what looked like a makeshift waiting area with various car rental shuttles. A minute later, a National shuttle pulled up. At this point, my brother had landed, but he had to clear immigration in Mallorca since he flew through London. I'm guessing it's an EU thing. We walk back near the baggage pickup to wait for him since we'll never be able to explain to him how to get to the National shuttle. I fall asleep on a chair waiting, awoken by my little brother pretending to steal my carry-on.

The shuttle was still there waiting for anyone to come along. After a 5-10min drive, we arrived. They asked how easy was to find the shuttle. They were surprised I didn't receive clear instructions and started apologizing by offering free upgrades. They seemed really concerned about that my experience wasn't perfect and I had elevated status membership. So, we got an upgraded vehicle at no charge. The bill didn't match the quoted price, so they updated the return terms that we only had to return the vehicle with 1/2 a tank. Then there was a computer issue with my cousin and brother as additional drivers, so they updated the terms to we could return it with an empty tank. They were so accommodating and friendly that it was hard to be upset, so we just started loading our bags while they worked out the computer glitches. After about 20 min, we were finally all set and we hit the road.
 
Driving to Port de Soller

We fired up Google maps. They had set everything in the car to english for us. We couldn't check-in to our vrbo until 6:30pm and it was around 1pm. We put in the address to the dive shop, so we could check in and drop off our gear. Leaving Palma was like driving in any busy city with a freeway system, but we were headed to Soller and Port de Soller which are very old towns with narrow and confusing roads. I drove on this day. Upon exiting in Port de Soller, the driving got substantially more complex. I wasn't 100% ready for how confusing it would be. I studied road signs in advance, but it wasn't the same as driving in real time. There were do not enter signs all over the place which Google maps did not observe. At one point, it told me to turn near the water and there were hundreds of people walking around. I saw a no entry sign and did a U-turn back up the road. We eventually found a route to the dive shop and used this route every day.

Soller Divers
If you ever dive with the shop, you have to learn the parking situation. There is a paid by hour parking lot before a gated entrance where the dive shop is. My cousin and brother got out to find out where to park because they said they had free parking. An employee told us to park in the paid area. Once we were inside, someone else explained for us to drive through the gate and that we'll be able to leave at no charge. So, we paid for no reason and drove closer to the shop and dropped off gear. On exit, you hit the call button instead of paying, tell them you were with the dive shop, and they'll remotely open the gate to let you out.

In the shop, they gave us hangars and instructions on where to hang our gear so that it doesn't get mixed up in the rental gear. We dropped everything off and were told that they were experiencing bad weather and that the next day's diving was at risk. Sure enough, early in the morning, they sent me a message via WhatsApp that the days diving was cancelled. I wish they would have explained to us that there were other diving options that were still going out in other areas of the island. We had bad weather on our last day, and they did exactly this, helped book us on another charter on the west coast (more on this later).

Soller/Biniaraix
Back on the road, we had to drive from Port de Soller through Soller to Biniaraix. This is where driving got stressful. Google maps continued to send us down confusing paths, specifically where there are no entry signs. It eventually reroutes me through some windy mountains. At this point, I'm getting tired, my adrenaline kicks in because crashing here would mean a long trip down the mountain. The roads were narrow with bidirectional traffic. In some areas it became so narrow that only one car could pass at a time. We get to the road to Biniaraix and it says no entry. So, I drive past it, and Google maps insists we turn around. I keep driving away from it, knowing there's another way into town. We later learn, there's one specific turn you have to take in order for GM to send us to the other road. I somehow, navigated this turn without knowing I did it, and GM updated the route.

We drive through town which is a single width road with cars parked along the way where room allows it. I turn to go towards our Vrbo, hoping to drop off bags. The road turns to cobblestone. This is a very narrow road with scooters parked along it. My brother or cousin yells to stop because 30 ft ahead there are steps. I had to drive backwards back up the road which was not as easy as driving down it forward. I've only got 2 feet of clearance and found it most difficult getting around the scooters, but I made it. I went to the area I knew I needed to park. We noticed a smashed driver mirror on a parked car, so we knew we had to be close to the stone wall and fold the mirrors in.

By this point, the driving has me stressed out and I'm done with it. I'm on vacation and just want to relax. I told my brother and cousin, I don't care if I drive again, I'm ready to chill.

We later learned that no entry signs typically have a list of exceptions under them. I couldn't process this while actively driving. The exceptions varied for every no entry sign. We used Google translate quite a bit on this trip and some of the no entry paths, I could have drove through.
 
Day 1:
As previously mentioned, I received a WhatsApp message from Marc, the owner, that diving was canceled for the day. We went in anyways to do paperwork. My brother was doing his AOW and my cousin was doing his DPV cert since one of the AOW electives was DPV. We did the waivers and class paperwork.

We ate lunch in Port de Soller and went Soller to find food and drinks. We drove around Soller looking for parking and ended up finding a spot 550 meters away. We didn't realize there was a parking lot at the store. It was also raining, so we had a wet walk there and back.

Interesting enough, there's a 20% tax in Mallorca. We found the food and drink prices which include tax, on an island, to be cheaper than the listed prices back home (including American brands of alcohol) in the US without tax included, even with the exchange rate. The only thing which was way more in cost than back home was fuel.

We watched drivers come and go into the parking lot so that we could figure out how it worked. There's a gated entrance where you take a ticket. When you check out at the register, give them the ticket, and they will charge parking to your bill. I think there's 30 minutes free. On exit, you scan the ticket and the gate will open. No more 550 meter walks carrying groceries in the rain!

We spent the rest of the day driving around exploring Soller, unpacking, and finding somewhere to eat for dinner. In the evening, we played cards and drank.
 
Day 2:
We finally get to go diving! Our initial plan was 12 dives each, but we've already lost the opportunity for 3 dives. It's now Saturday and we plan for all 3 dives on that day.

For starters, every dive had 100ft of vis and water temps were 79-81 in the last week of July. I was told by the dive shop that the water temp could drop to low 70's in a thermocline at depth, so I brought my 5mm wetsuit on the trip. Hearing that it was 80 degrees, I opted not to wear my wetsuit on the first dive. In fact, I didn't even bring it on the boat.

Dive 1: Es Cuco
I'm wearing a lavacore tank top and apeks tech shorts. My brother gets with his AOW instructor. My cousin and I are grouped with a dive guide and the other divers. We saw several small moray eels, some sort of ray, a large nudi, an octopus, a grouper, starfish, and lots of jellyfish. The jellyfish were present due to the previous inclement weather. I fortunately didn't get stung on my arms or legs. Max depth was 92 and no thermocline. The topology is sea grass and large rocks.

Dive 2: Punta de Cala Deia
I decided to wear my rash guard under my lavacore to cover my arms in order to avoid getting stung on my arms by jellyfish. Max depth was 63ft. I'm getting annoyed with an older guy with a camera. He's silting and kicking his fins in the sea grass. He wants to be the first person to every critter the guide finds. He's a hot mess turkey diver. Same topology as the first dive. There's really not much life besides lots of small fish. I did see a moray in some grass on a rock which freaked out when I pointed my gopro towards it. This gave me a little bit of a jump scare, and the dive guide laughed because I think it startled her too. Saw another starfish, small groupers, and some rooster fish (or something like that). I came across a large section full of anemone. I was excited to see if could find various shrimps and fish in them and found nothing. I must have looked in 15 different ones and then gave up.

Dive 3: Illeta Nord
I've decided to just wear my 5mm from here on out. This was my brothers DPV specialty dive and my cousins first DPV cert dive. In the shop, they did a quick class and talked about the scooters we'd be using, which were Apollo AV2 scooters. These are identical to my Tusa back home. I rented one so I could join them. The shop only had 3 scooters, so the instructor was on fins. He gave us a dive brief and said to use the rule of 3rds in our navigation. Go out 20 min or 1/3 air and come back to the boat. We could use the last 1/3 riding around the boat until it was time to end the dive. We rode out for 20 min. Max depth 93 ft. We found a thermocline at 80ft where the water temp dropped to 77. The temp dropped felt good in my 5mm. Upon heading back to the boat, we were going with the current and made it back in 5 min. We spent the next 35 min goofing off in the vicinity of the boat. We were doing 3-man tows and taking video of each other. They had a blast. My brother was like, if I dove as much as you do, I'd definitely buy one.
 
I'm getting annoyed with an older guy with a camera. He's silting and kicking his fins in the sea grass. He wants to be the first person to every critter the guide finds. He's a hot mess turkey diver. Same topology as the first dive. There's really not much life besides lots of small fish.
You will experience this type of behavior in dives to come.
Advise; sit back and let the hurdle follow the DM. Once they are gone approach the area that was pointed!
 
I live in SE Florida and flew out of Miami with Air France. My flight left on Wednesday around 4pm and we landed in Mallorca on Thursday around noon after a short layover in Paris.

Traveling to Mallorca:

Air France Check-in
I've been traveling annually for a dive trip. My gear always comes in a few pounds below the allowable. On this trip, I hand carried my flashlights, mask, and regulator. I threw some clothes in the suitcase, like rash guard shirts, athletic shorts, and spandex like underwear since I'll be wet all week. I used my scale at home and was under the 50lb limit with room to spare. I show up at check-in and they are weighing in kilograms, and the limit is 23 kilos. They tell me that I'm 4 kilos overweight. That's 59 lbs! I said let me move some stuff to my carry-on and now he wants to weigh my carry-on. My carry-on was 3kg below the allowable, a deficit of 1kg, and he tells me no, I have to pay $45. I was fuming pissed and paid it. I didn't want him to start measuring carry-on size and really make my problems worse. On the way back home, I said screw it, and put all my dive gear, clothes, and 4 bottles of alcohol in my suitcase and I was only over by a few kilograms and was not charged. This confirmed my belief that they screwed me on my flight out of Miami. Shame on you Air France.

Air France Boarding
I was in zone 3. I had an exit row which meant I couldn't put anything in the seat in front of me, so I wanted to make sure I had overhead bin space for my carry-on and personal item and got in line. They had a facial scanner that would turn green or red. If green, you continued to the plane. There's a lady standing there watching, except for when it was my turn, she decided to start socializing with a co-worker. The screen goes green and I start walking. She stops me and tells me to scan. I told her it went green and she said she didn't see it. So I scan again and now it's red. She tells me I have to get out of line and go to the counter. I argued that it went green and she didn't did care. I told her it wouldn't be a problem if she did her job. I got to the counter and explained what happened and they quickly ushered me past the scanners after a quick verification.

At this point, AF isn't doing great, and I haven't even left Miami.

The Paris Airport
I found it interesting that we had to clear immigration in Paris and not Mallorca, so I never got a Spanish stamp in my passport. After clearing immigration, which was a facial scanner followed by a person stamping passports, I was on my way to figure out where my connecting flight was. We landed in the main section of the airport, but the flight to Mallorca was in a completely different building which required a shuttle ride. I feared we left a secure area and would have to clear security again, but this was not the case. We only had 1hr 15min to get to our connecting flight and they had boards which said it would take approximately 38 minutes to get to the other building based on the shuttle schedule. We eventually found the shuttle which felt like a back-room exit of the building with multiple shuttle options splitting at the door but then going through the same door. Fortunately, the airport personnel used the split to ensure you went the right way to the correct shuttle bus. The shuttle was full, standing room only. The road was super windy, with lots of 90 and 180 degree turns. Everyone standing was struggling to stay up and hold their carry-on. It was almost comical. The straps hanging from the bar would slide around on each turn. I eventually reached up to the bar and held on to it. We eventually got to the correct building and walked down to the gate wing where our flight was to board. There were no facilities, and we had approximately 15 minutes until boarding starts. We had to walk back to the main area to find restrooms. Upon returning to the departure gate, we learned our flight was delayed due to inclement weather in Mallorca and an update would be provided in 30 minutes. This gate area was not designed to host a flight of passengers. Seating was extremely limited and again, there were not facilities. 30 minutes later we boarded and departed.

National Car Rental in Mallorca
We land, get our bags, and follow the signs to the car rental area, except there's no National desk. It's a little confusing because there's still a sign saying car rentals which points outside. Upon exiting the building, there was no obvious location for where National was. I used National because I have an upgraded corporate account with deep discounts. My cousin and I wandered around looking for the shuttle. After trying another exit which also had car rental sign, I asked a hotel shuttle where we could find car rental shuttles. He pointed 100 yards down the way to another area to the side of a multi-level parking garage. We walked through it to the left and found what looked like a makeshift waiting area with various car rental shuttles. A minute later, a National shuttle pulled up. At this point, my brother had landed, but he had to clear immigration in Mallorca since he flew through London. I'm guessing it's an EU thing. We walk back near the baggage pickup to wait for him since we'll never be able to explain to him how to get to the National shuttle. I fall asleep on a chair waiting, awoken by my little brother pretending to steal my carry-on.

The shuttle was still there waiting for anyone to come along. After a 5-10min drive, we arrived. They asked how easy was to find the shuttle. They were surprised I didn't receive clear instructions and started apologizing by offering free upgrades. They seemed really concerned about that my experience wasn't perfect and I had elevated status membership. So, we got an upgraded vehicle at no charge. The bill didn't match the quoted price, so they updated the return terms that we only had to return the vehicle with 1/2 a tank. Then there was a computer issue with my cousin and brother as additional drivers, so they updated the terms to we could return it with an empty tank. They were so accommodating and friendly that it was hard to be upset, so we just started loading our bags while they worked out the computer glitches. After about 20 min, we were finally all set and we hit the road.

Reading this post caused my blood pressure to spike. Makes me glad I don't fly to dive!!
 
Day 3:

It's Sunday and on Sundays, the shop only does 2 dives since it's considered family day. I had a conversation with the AOW instructor about us joining my brother and not being split up. He said no problem, that my brother was doing so well, the dives were turning into guided dives.

Dive 1: As Joncar
It was nice not being with the guided group of divers. There were 2 full boats going out in the morning. Max depth 92 ft. There was a thermocline at 85ft which was 7 degree drop in temp, bottoming out at 73 degrees. Even in my 5mm, it was a little chilly. The shimmering through the thermocline was really easy to see. Most divers could be seen hovering over the thermocline. We were really close to the shoreline and you could see the waves crashing into the rocks above. We saw another starfish, a lobster, a gobie?, and another of that rooster fish they have a dive site named after. Same topology as the previous dives.

Dive 2: Es Gall Nord (The Rooster North)
My cousin has a unique stride into the water where he turns sideways. It's really funny to watch him stride off the boat. The AOW instructor joked that he would have to teach how to do it. It's at this point the AOW instructor is struggling to challenge my brother. His buoyancy and trim are already spot on. He's monitoring his air and NDL as expected. Navigation is locked in. He's done DPV. On this dive, we entered a cavern. The light shining aqua blue on exit was awe inspiring. We experienced surge outside of the cavern and watching the seagrass makes it look like the ground is moving. This can make you feel sick and hits my cousin pretty hard. I felt it too, but was able to look away. Same topology as the other dives. Water temp was 80-81.
 
Day 4:

Dive 1: Sa Platforma (The Platform)
We're back to diving with the group. I ended up getting a tank with a Y valve. At first, I thought cool, I remember a discussion on SB about them! But it off centers my 1st stage and turning the valve was problematic since there isn't a lot of room between the knob and regulator. This dive had a few swim throughs and valleys through rocks. My brother really seemed to like it. It was the same rock and sea grass topology. After a swim through, I turn around and see a diver pointing at something floating in the water column. I swim back and it's a nudi! I gently pushed it back down into the algae before a fish could eat it. My brother found a cool hermit crab with large tube worms on its shell.

Dive 2: Ses Puntes
This dive site is where the dive shop does it's OW classes. It's protected from the seas and had minimal surge. It's a small bay, u shaped area. This is where my cousin did dive 2 of his DPV class. My brother joined the DPV course and did his cert as well. I scootered along with them. We did our rule of thirds navigating away from the boat and back, then finished off our dive around the boat. There were several classes going on here. OW, AOW, and DPV. We found a cool swim through into the rocks at the shoreline. The waves were crashing above, but we were 20ft below it. Bubbles were coming downward from the crashing waves.

Dive 3: Illeta Sud
Seas were picking up. We were supposed to do a cavern swim through where you enter one spot and exit another. Due to the seas crashing into the cavern entrance, the shop said we had to do something else. It was just the 3 of us on the boat and they drove far north and then far south of the inlet. Eventually they found a spot we could dive, but it wasn't the cavern dive we hoped for. The surge was really bad, and the sea grass was nauseating. With the rough conditions, schools of barracuda came in closer to shore. The barracudas are much smaller than the ones back home. Same topology as all the other dives.
 
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