The first question anybody will ask regards security in this area.
We had plenty of time to meet many people and talk to them about their impressions of the area around Zamboanga and Sulu. Especially as we spent almost 2 days with fellow passengers and some time on Sanga Sanga (Tawi Tawi).
As always, the reality of the situation does not always match people's perception. The media and (some others) often give inaccurate information.
Some facts and our impressions
- Less than 300 foreign tourists visit the Lantaka Hotel every year. This is a marked change from the 80's when the place was full of foreign visitors. Shame!
- Estimate is that less than 30 'white' people travel on the ferry to Sandakan every year. We were told that they had not seen any English in Tawi-Tawi for many years.
- Zamboanga has very friendly and hospitable people there and you are as safe as anywhere within the city. Just be cautious as you would be anywhere else. We met an American guy (and an experienced traveller) who stayed in a hotel in the city and his views are the same as ours. He wandered around Zamboanga freely for days (and at night) and had no trouble whatsoever. Indeed, he thinks Mindanao is a great place and hopes to return in the future [revolt_101; maybe you can say what your impression was]. The city is good and has nice culture and history. Thumbs up for Zamboanga.
- There used to be a dive shop there run by a man named Freedom Dellosa until the mid 90's when tourists stopped going there. He is a good guy and still teaches scuba (PADI Instructor). He is very knowledgable about the area around Zamboanga and in Sulu. We spoke today and we hope to meet him in the near future. We will pass information on if people are interested.
- The islands all along the Sulu Archipelago are absolutely stunningly beautiful; island after island of white sand, peaks and sea lagoons. The local peoples are (rightly) fiercely proud of this area. All people we met (many) were extremely friendly and very interested in us and why we were travelling. Many were from Jolo and Tawi Tawi. We found them to be very good people who are tired of the trouble that adversely affects most people's lifes in this region (same thing in Zamboanga).
- It is not advisable to go to Basilan or Jolo. This seems like an obvious thing to say, but the peoples there are also strongly advising this as they don't want innocent people to get harmed. Tawi-Tawi is regarded by all we met as a safe place with a entirely peaceful local population.
- At this point, I will point out that security measures are taken to protect the ferry passengers. Note that there is a state of emergency in the area at the moment. The main problem for travellers means no overnigh ferry crossings past Basilan and Jolo at the moment.
- It is not advisable to travel outside of Zamboanga City limits and be cautious there (as anywhere). Note that there is a problem caused here because many deportees from Malaysia are sent here - often without any money/without Gvt help. This means that some turn to minor crime. These people are generaly not from Zamboanga and the locals have to put up with this.
- While in Tawi Tawi, everyone we met were (again) good people. They were concerned to make sure that we were cared for and offered us security. We politely turned down their kind offer and walked freely in town a while with a good local contact who knew people (we met him on the ferry). People were extremely friendly (the police thought Jane was a West Point Officer though - must get her a uniform
).
- There is an organised and active local dive group who organise there own diving around the islands - including liveaboard diving!!!! (not sure which boat the use). Many people dive there - including Navy personnel, a few Americans based there and Marine Bios from Mindanao State University.
- There are three main hotels in Bongao. There is also resort on Sibutu Island (North Lagoon). Travel and accommodation can easily be arranged. Diving can also be arranged. There is a push to develop dive tourism in Tawi-Tawi. Interest to develop dive resorts has mostly come from Malaysian investors to date.
- There is an airport to which SEAIR flies to daily from Zamboanga. Their schedule is;
Zamboanga to Tawi-Tawi; Tawi-Tawi to Zamboanga;
DG933 0925 1050 DG934 1110 1225
Mon, Fri Mon, Fri
DG935 1030 1145 DG936 1205 1320
Tues, Wed Tue, Wed
DG931 0800 0915 DG932 0935 1050
Thur, Sat, Sun Thur, Sat, Sun
Fare P3.556.00 inclusive of ASF, INS, Fuel Surcharge and VAT.
Contact: Office at Zamboanga International Airport Tel. 062 991 2225/992 7797
Tawi-Tawi station: 068 268 1255
Our Advice/Summary
You can travel safely on the ferry, but expect some delays. Try to avoid times of public holidays. The Aleson 'Danica Joy II' would offer travellers more space and comfort. It has aircon cabins (4 sharing).
If we do this again, we would fly to Tawi-Tawi with SEAIR then spend time there before taking the ferry to Sandakan/visa versa.
However, if you want to meet people and see the beauty of the area, it is well worth taking the ferry.
You can dive in Tawi-Tawi but this will need to be arranged in advance. Better to be there over a weekend when the local divers have time to dive with you.
You can obtain Malaysian Ringgit currency/exchange Ringgits for PHP at the Weesam Office, Amil's Tower, Pilar Street, Zamboanga. Contact: 062 992 3756/992 3986. They also have a hotel in their building. The contact for Weesam in Sandakan is 0060 89 212 872/0060 16 509 0694
Take some time to stay in Zamboanga. There is still tourism here and a good person to talk to is Mrs Paciencia Tan Manalac, PTM Travel and Tours at the Lantaka Hotel By The Sea (28 years experience in tourism) : tel. 062 991 2033/34/35 There are banks, DoT Office, Western Union, travel agencies and shops next to the Lantaka.
Finally, we hope that this information is helpful to those with similar adventurous spirits wanting to travel a little bit off the beaten track. It's well worth it. We have more contacts which we are unable to pass on publicly, but would be happy to advise anybody considering travelling to Tawi Tawi. We hope to travel back there and dive as soon as we are able and will post more information about this as/when we are able.
WWD