Malapascua and Alona/Balicasag Trip Report

[diveUAE]

Hello Everyone

Thanks to everyone for help in planning our family trip to Philippines this April. Here's how it went for us, some small tips and my/our liking of the diving in the 2 places I chose for our first trip to Phils. I know this is a dive forum, but some divers do have families and might have to make compromises

Travelers: Me and DH or 8-year-old daughter, 17-year-old son and 73-year-old mother in law.

My final decision to try getting something for everyone: 5 nights on Malapascua for diving and 4 close to Alona beach for more action and sightseeing.

Traveling from Abu Dhabi we flew to Manila, then had 3 hours to transfer from Terminal 1 to 2 for our flight to Cebu. I had searched online and knew we had to go get our luggage, take it through customs and “check in” again – since we were flying Etihad we had to take the luggage with us to Terminal 2.

While we were waiting for our luggage, I sent DH through customs to change 100 us$ and to buy a Global Sim with data – we made the mistake only to get data, could have gotten minuts+data for the same price. Next to the sim card stand was the transfer between terminals booth. Transfer is free, but you must write your name and number of passengers in a book.

We were then shown outside to wait for the bus, we tried to ask how long it would be, but did not get a real answer. Attendants were to busy taking selfies with our 2 m tall son ….. Finally they started calling passengers for terminal 4, then 3 – and the bus was (more than) full. I was getting quite worried we would miss our connection and told DH we should have just taken a taxi, but the line for the bus was now blocking the door, so we could not change our mind. Finally, we were shown to another bus, got everything inside, loaded too many people and set off on the 3 min trip to Terminal 2. We checked in our luggage, went through security and even had time for a quick sandwich before boarding.

Arriving in Cebu we waited for our luggage, then headed outside to find a guy waiting for us – I had booked our first night in Cebu at “Waterfront Mactan Airport Hotel” – literally 2 min away. The guy was there, but he had to call the hotel for a van (despite the fact I already had made the resort aware of our arrival time and flight), it took about 15 min before the van arrived and we made the short transfer to the hotel. Check
in was ok – although it was made difficult by a noisy band playing in the lobby. We decided to have the dinner buffet – at 950 PHP + drinks!! It was our most expensive meal during our trip, and the quality of the food did not match the price tag. Then we were of to bed after a long, tiring day.

In hindsight we should have just had a van waiting to take us out of Cebu and closer to Malapascua, since day 2 felt like a complete waste of time.

Day 2:
I had emailed Danny Noy (find details on TA) to arrange for a van to take us to Maya port – also telling him we needed to stop by HSBC ATM to get plenty of cash for the trip. Early in the morning I whatsapp’ed him my Philippine number and the quickly replied with name of driver – fantastic. Breakfast was buffet – a bit better quality than the night before, but still we were not impressed.

Our driver picked us up on time, but did not know, where to find the HSBC ATM – he seemed to think any ATM would do. I explained this was our only option for taking out 40.000 PHP each in one go, and was happy I printed out an explanation about how to find the ATM – a real life saver, as I’m not sure we would have found it without! We also made a stop to buy a “top up” for the sim, so we could make calls, our driver stopped at a Shell station, and they were so very helpful and set up everything on the phone so we could make calls.

Aimed with 80.000 PHP we set off towards Maya – boy was traffic slow! In total (with the ATM and phone call stop) the trip took just over 5 hours!

I called Thresher Cove Resort to let them know our approximate arrival time at Maya New pier, and when we (finally) arrived there, everything was ready – we just needed to pay the “pier fee”? of 20 PHP per person and pay/tip the porters, who helped with our luggage. Also please note, we did not find any toilets at Maya new pier.

Boarding the boat at Maya had been my worry, ever since I selected to stay in Malapascua and having read about how difficult it could be with on sea transfers to small boats I almost gave up going there. So glad we persisted! It was no problem at all! I don’t think you have to use the small boat at all at the new port. When we reached Malapascua, we did have to get into a smaller boat, but it was no problem as it was inside the bay so the water was not too bad – I also think we had luck with weather and water. We paid 4000 PHP for the van and 1500 PHP for the private transfer.

Arriving at Thresher Cove Resort was great! We were greeted and escorted to check-in our rooms were ready, except they did not really understand that we booked a double with an extra bed and a twin room – both rooms had a double bed. But when I insisted, they simply took out the double bed and replaced it with 2 singles – problem solved

After unpacking a bit us 3 divers went to the “dive center” – actually the same as reception, to ask, when we could get diving. They really have a great system with a big board, with names and dive sites + timings, so within 20 min we were all set for the next day trip to “Gato Island” and a night dive at “Lighthouse”, “Monad Shoal” and a trip to Kalangaman Island (with 2 dives) the day after that and a trip to “Aquarium Island” following day. We also got boxes with names on for our gear and packed everything in, so the crew could bring the box to the boat the next day and set up the equipment. Last thing we did before dinner was order a packed lunch for the Gato island trip.

Finally we had a fantastic tasty dinner, some amazing “Long Island Ice Tea” (very reasonable priced) while the “Happy Hour” was still on and it was off to bed for all of us.

 

[diveUAE]

Day 3-6: Malapascua diving:

Vic is the dive guide for the 3 of us. He always makes sure we have everything we need, including our lunch (and a camera inside the housing).

The Bangka they have is not that big, but comfortable enough, our gear is set up for the first dives, and we’re asked to check everything is there, working and that we have around 200 bar in the tank. Crew also change tanks between dives.

The bangka has an area for putting on the equipment that’s so high, that getting up and standing is no problem at all and I love this!

Gato island: As we approach Gato, we see lots!! Of other boats and I can’t help but think about all the reports about it being a “show” to dive there, with mostly other divers to see:-/. But: to our surprise, Vic takes us to the side and asks us to wait with the setup, as the boat will drop us on the other side of the island. This is our first dive with him, and my first thought is, he wants to do an easy check dive with us at a site with not much life or corals, so I’m thrilled when he gives the dive briefing: we jump in, go into the caves and out through the tunnel Good chance to see whitetip, nudies and other stuff. I tell Vic our son wants the sharks, DH wants “nudies” (they usually don’t move, so are easy to make photos of;-D) and I “just” want sea horses and pygmy sea horses. It’s a perfect first dive in the Philippines! No one around us, we see 2 white tips inside the caves and one of them swims past the “exit” several times, posing for lovely photos. Outside viz is not that good, but we still see lots of new nudies and a seahorse, later we find a “fan” with several pygmy seahorses. Loved Gato!

Kalangaman island: 90 min by Bangka is a very long way, but the corals were really lovely, and there’s plenty of fishes, nudies and other critters. We had ordered BBQ with the resort, and thought we were having it on the island, but it was on the boat. Grandma and little one spend some time on the island, while we dive, and we all take a walk between dives – it’s a stunning island, one of those places you just have to see. Lots of people all over but dives never felt crowded (I guess Vic just know how to stay away).

“Aquarium Island”: I’m sorry, I never got the real name of this island. It’s about 2 hour sail away from Malapascua, and wall diving with healthy coral like Kalangaman – nice enough, but really not worth the extra time on the boat.

“Light House” night dive: Oh my, this WAS a circus, 20 divers in a circle around the area, where the mandarin fishes comes up – every time they come up, somebody fires a camera, and they go down again. But we did see the mandarin’s (first time for all of us), and once everyone else has had enough we stay and watch a bit more. There was a lot of other stuff to see as well, and we rate this as one of the top 3 night dives we have ever done.

“Lapus Lapus”: Local dive site, 10 min sailing time. Not as many healthy corals, but still an interesting dive with seahorse, lots of nudies and a turtle, enjoyed the dive.

“Ka-Osting” night dive: WOW This was our final dive at Malapascua, and we just saw so many things here. First of all 10 min into the dive Vic finds us a tiny blue ring octopus – I did not know they were that small? About 2-3 cm, I’m so happy, as it’s been on my list for a while. But we find so many other critters it’s hard to remember everything: more nudies, pipe fish, small cuttlefish, cow box fish, bobtail squid (that decides my hand is a nice place to take a rest) and a sand eel – weird looking little fellar, until it decides to take a swim, I had no idea it was that long!

“Monad Shoal”: Well this is THE dive site on Malapascua. At least 20 boats every morning. I was prepared for the “circus”, but Thresher Cove have a mooring away from the other boats, Vic made sure we had nitrox – and that we’re last in the water, so we had the last 5-7 min all to ourselves. On one of our dives there, we’re greeted by 2 Threshers, 30 sec after we jump in the water (at only 12 m), we can tell it’s going to be a great dive. Most of the time on these dives, you just “sit” and wait for the sharks to show up – everyone in a line, we could see the threshers, but when everyone else leaves, we move from one line to the other and between the 2 points Vic stops and wait. At first we can’t see a thing, but then the threshers start coming! 3-4 at a time – one of them at least 5-6 m long. We try to “make no bubbles” and they come so close it’s incredible. Just what I dreamt of.

All in all we enjoyed Malapascua so much! Hard to believe people, when they say there are better dive spots in the Philippines, so will have to explore for ourselves another time.

 

[diveUAE]

If you're planning a trip to Philippines, know this: travel is SLOW, really slow. Factor it in, when you select place(s) to stay. I feel like we wasted 4 days of this holiday with travel.

Day 7: Travel day. Again a private transfer 10 am from Thresher Cove Resort, sad to say goodbye. Arrive at Maya port 10.40, van is waiting for us, and we set off. Around 2 pm we spot a McD, and decide to have lunch there. 4 pm we arrive at the pier for boat to Bohol/Tagbilaran.

This is one of the only things I’ve not pre booked for us, as I did not know, what boat we would be able to get on – I was a bit afraid it would be difficult getting tickets for 5 persons, but it turned out, it was very easy and straight forward: Driver dropped us at Ocean Jet ticket office, simply line up, tell them where you are going, show passports and get your tickets. We chose to go “business” even though that was 1000 PHP per person, better seats and we can take all our luggage with us. Even though I did let everyone in the family know, they should not let anyone help with luggage, 2 porters takes it from us, put everything on carts (that are free and available to everyone), rolls them inside the terminal, waited for us to pay terminal fee, then proceeded to the line for “check in” luggage. I said we were not checking in any luggage, as we had Business class, so the left after demanding money for the “service”, well not much anyway … just know you do not need them.

We were on the 4.20 pm ferry, lots of people were waiting and the ferry was a bit late, but not much. Finally they open the doors and everyone rushes out, on the way to the (very steep) gangway I hear 2 backpackers tell another, that the 2 backpacks left on the pier are not theirs (so happy we can bring our luggage). As we have 4 big and 4 small suitcases, 1 child and 1 grandmother, who can’t carry anything, getting luggage on board was a bit tricky, but the crew was very helpful and took all the heavy stuff upstairs for us. We quickly find our seats and dose off, while sailing.

On arrival we do the whole luggage thing “backwards”, again staff help us. Van is waiting to take us to “Amihan Resort” near Alona Beach. I pre-booked and kind of expect driver to know, where we’re going, but he gets it wrong, and need to ask a few times. But finally we arrive. Price for van: 700 PHP.

During check in we’re asked to settle the bill for our stay? And told they do not take credit cards. We explain we did not know about the cc (or paying up front), and will need to get more money, before we can pay. (Later we pay via PayPal). We get a map of how to get to Alona Beach (it involves 10 min walk, down some dirt roads and tracks, so happy we brought a torch). The rooms are great and pool beautiful.

After some dinner, kids want to swim, so hubby and I walk down to the beach, to find “Philippine Fun Divers” (PFD), with whom we’re booked to Balicasag the next 2 days. We easily find the dive shop (it’s closed, but now we know, where to find it.)

 

[diveUAE]

Day 8-9 Diving Balicasag and Alona

I booked our "permits" for diving Balicasag through PFD 2 months prior to our arrival.

In the morning they call from PFD, they’ll send someone to pick up our dive gear. So we leave the heavy stuff and walk off. Arriving at PFD, we find out we’re the only ones signed up for Balicasag – and have the whole big Bangka to ourselves – cool! Paperwork and putting equipment in boxes are done in 10 min and we’re off – must have been the quickest we ever had.

It’s only 30 min sail to Balicasag, our new dive guide, Alan, give good briefings so we know what to expect. Lots of boats around, but (again) we see few divers under water.

“Balicasag”: Well, let me say: I expected more. Yes, it’s very pretty, good viz, lots of healthy corals, many small fish, schools of fish etc. But not very exciting – felt like diving in Egypt red sea (not my favorite either). The best was the big school of Jacks and the 4 frog fishes we saw – 2 of them giant green ones.

Alona “house reef” night dive: Interesting, lots of small critters to be found, coals not so healthy, and not many fishes.

“Kalipayaa”: interesting dive site, again many small critters, including ghost pipefish.

All in all: the diving at Alona/Balicasag is good, but Malapascua was better.

 

[diveUAE]

Sightseeing:
Alona Beach I will never understand? Small and very crowded, only a few places where you can swim loud music and lots of restaurants/café’s. I knew it was touristy, so not really a complaint, we were happy our hotel was not on the beach, but 10 min away. Even our son liked Malapascua better.

During our stay I reached out to “Bohol Travel Buddy” (BTB) to arrange a “Firefly trip” (Van 1800 PHP, boat 2500 PHP), “Hinagdanan Cave/Mag-aso falls” trip (Van 2500 PHP) and 1 day trip ending at Tagbilaran pier (Van 3000 PHP..

Firefly trip was glorious! Everyone LOVED it – one of the special moments bonding us forever in “do you remember”. Originally, I wanted to do the kayaking trip, but DH has a bad back, so was not cooperating on this one. The trip arranged by BTB included a stop for dinner at “Bohol Bee Farm” – not worth it in our opinion. The drive to where the Firefly trip started was long, we arrived late, but timing was perfect with new moon, and we only waited about 10 min, then we were shown into our own little “pump boat” – really it’s just a small boat, ok comfortable. I did bring lots of insect repellant – we only got 3-4 bites amongst us.

Hinagdanan cave was awesome – you have to get a ticket on the spot, and it’s extra, if you want to swim. It was a Sunday, so pretty crowded (avoid weekends if you can), but we managed to find a good spot to change. Getting in and out of the water can be a challenge – bring swim shoes if you have. Everyone loved it and we spend maybe 1 h in total. Mag-aso falls are actually close to the place we did the firefly trip (plan ahead an combine the 2 ), not a good as we had hoped, we did not dare to go in the water, as none of the locals did it, so maybe the flow was too strong? Only stayed for 10 min.

Day 11:

It was raining, as we left “Amihan Resort” with all our luggage, son was unhappy, since the driver said we may not be able to do the zip-line, if it rains (note to self: do not promise something to a teenager, then leave it to the last day!).

We started with the cute little tarsiers – they really are a must see! Just as we stepped out of the car, the rain stopped, so following the small trail was lovely. Despite the rain, there were many tourists so we had to wait in line to be able to see the tiny tarsiers, but it was worth it. Next was “Butterfly park” – mehh, will NOT do that again. Then onto the Eco Adventure Park for Zip lining, it had started raining again, and when we arrived, they were waiting for better weather. Luck had it the rain stopped 10 min later, and they opened the counter. My husband was fast and got the tickets – I was surprised even grandma wanted to try! It’s quite a trek up hill to the starting point for zip-line, we got a short briefing about “safety”, then son and grandma went off, next was me with our youngest and DH on the other line. It was totally amazing! Not too fast or too slow, wonderful scenery below and we just enjoyed it so much. Wish we could do it again! 400 PHP per person back and forth – best deal ever!!

After the zip-line our driver suggested lunch on the river cruise. We were not convinced and after hearing the price (650 per person – also for our daughter) and saw the hoards of people waiting we ask him to find us somewhere else. At first he takes us to a local? Buffet place – it smells awful and is hot and humid, so we ask for yet another place. He then takes us to a small café/restaurant (Lodge Restaurant and Bar), in a beautiful setting over the river. From where we sit, we can see children playing in the river – just a perfect place for quiet lunch. Food is good, portions not so big, but we enjoyed or time and anyway it was only a fraction of the price for the river cruise.

We originally thought we would have time for Chocolate hills, but are tired of bumping in the van, so set of for Tagbilaran and the ferry to Cebu. Again we have Business tickets, avoid the porters this time, crew is helpful with the luggage, ferry is on time and we sleep during the sail.

Arriving at Cebu it was raining cats and dogs. I look around for our driver, but see no one with signs at all. Other drivers are hunting us and the big pile of luggage, offering to take us to Waterfront Mactan Airport Hotel for “just” 1500 PHP (agreement with our driver was 800) finally give in and pay 900 PHP for the transfer. Took “just” 45 min.

Check-in is easier this time (no band around), we insist on the 2 single beds and end on 2 different floors – no problem for us.

This time we opt for “In Room Dining”, ok food, better price (than the buffet).

Next day we have a 12.10 pm flight via Hong Kong back to Abu Dhabi.

Let me make one thing clear: if you’re flying through Hong Kong – make sure you’re on code share flight!! I knew Etihad and Cathay Pacific was not, but really I was not prepared to just sit in a boring transit area for 2,5 Hours. This is the worst airport experience we have EVER had – having travelled around Indonesia, India, Tanzania, Middle East and Europe. Basically, since we could not get our boarding pass for the HKG-AUH leg in Cebu, we were made to wait until check-in opened 3 hours prior to flight. We tried talking to several employees but just got a blank stare – nothing they could/would do. Nowhere to sit, 2 small overrun and overpriced café’s – why on earth they do not have an “all airlines transfer” desk I will never understand. By the time we had our boarding passes we only had time for a quick meal (at Beef & Liberty – great burgers), then we were of to the gate – MIL longingly looking at all the interesting shops and would for sure have bought something had we had time. Wish we had taken the flight via Manila – could not have been worse than this.

Side note: on our second day of diving with PFD we were on boat with another dive operator (still had Alan as a guide just for us). Lots of Asian divers (Korean?), we did not see them under water, but when we got back to Alona, ALL of them put on life jackets to transfer to the little boat for the 2 min sail to the beach. We asked and were told, most of them could not swim!!!!! HOW could they have a DIVE certificate? Beats me, anyone would WANT to dive, if they can not even swim?

Fact: I'm a "mozzie magnet", but only got 1 bite on Malapascua and 3 on Bohol - yes I did bring and use repellent, but not a very strong one, as I'm allergic to them.

 

[diveUAE]

Price per diver – including 17 dives, park fees, (most) food, 11 nights hotel, transfer and sightseeing: 1223 us$

ATM fees: DH is just going over the bank fees now: HSBC for taking out 40.000 PHP, fee is just under 3 us$, BPI ATM on Bohol taking out 20.000 PHP, fee just under 18 us$ - so I would advice to take the effort and go to HSBC. (They only have ATM’s a few places)

Also I forgot to mention: Thresher Cove Resort, internet was fine, showers were “salty”, but for us it was not a problem at all.

 

[Juergen_187]

Hi,

just read your report as I've been many times to various places in the Philippines. I also loved Gato and Kalangaman Island, but were unlucky with the Tresher sharks, just saw one passing by. Overall, I wasn't overwhelmed by Malapascua. With Panglao and Balicasag I connect great memories. On my first dive there in 2010, during the surface break, I saw a whale shark! And I love the big jackfish school and the drift dives in Balicasag. I believe, if they'd impose a complete fishing ban around Balicasag Island, this could get quite close to what Sipadan is. Alona, well, has really changed over the years, the laid-back charm is being replaced by mass tourism for the Chinese and Koreans, but there other beautiful places in Panglao and Bohol, I just say Anda beach! Amazing...though a bit off the popular dive sites. And there's another great diving area around Bohol, it's Cabilao. It's very diverse with impressive coral landscapes.

....and then your comment about the Asian non-swimming divers....made me laugh! My wife can't properly swim, too, but she is a very good diver! In Asia many people can't swim, PADI could close down their Asia operations if they made swimming skills a prerequisite! In fact, having a BCD replaces swimming skills, but yes, I'd also feel not good about diving if I couldn't swim!

Cheers,

Juergen

 

[eagerbeaver]

....and then your comment about the Asian non-swimming divers....made me laugh! My wife can't properly swim, too, but she is a very good diver! In Asia many people can't swim, PADI could close down their Asia operations if they made swimming skills a prerequisite! In fact, having a BCD replaces swimming skills

I'm 100% certain that PADI still has swimming as a prerequisite for learning to dive (200m) - everywhere worldwide. It's just that not all instructors are caring to follow the standards.

 

[Juergen_187]

I'm 100% certain that PADI still has swimming as a prerequisite for learning to dive (200m) - everywhere worldwide. It's just that not all instructors are caring to follow the standards.

It's a different topic altogether, but my impression is that PADI's standards have been eroding a lot - in practice. When I did my OWD and later the rescue course more than 10 years back it took me months with lots of theory and practice lesson. Later I joined a DM course to see them doing the important rescue course in just a weekend, without any theory lessons! But PADI has to take part of the blame. They've been advertising hard this "diving is easy" image, making it easy in the beginning and selling the new divers as many additional certificates, no matter how useless, as possible. And the dive shops actually just followed suit.

 

[Trailboss123]

Thanks for that great and detailed trip report @diveUAE -- really appreciate the time you took to chronicle your experiences. It is always helpful!