Making a 10 meter RIB suitable/comfortable for divers

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Axopar 28 will make any rib ride after it look bumpy, that boat is a monster, but it's a pleasure craft with not enough space.
 
Sorry to be harsh but... this question is like a not yet qualified OW diver asking which rebreather to buy. You have a set of requirements which are guesses. Your assumptions sound a bit iffy. For example you mentioned rinse tanks and bottle racks on the engine box of an inboard, honestly that sounds like you have never been on a RHIB in any sort of weather. Even in moderate conditions you need to hold on to stop your feet leaving the deck. Literary anything that is not tied down will vanish. And how fast can you go with a sun shade? Is the sea there completely flat the whole time?

There are a bunch of rhib bases operations in Tenerife you might look at. They all seemed to have regular open rhibs and operate more or less how a U.K. club would, coming back in for lunch. They use a variety from 6.3m Humbers upwards but no cabins. There is a bloke in Kinsale (Ocean Addicts) who used to run a big (8m?) rhib with an inboard diesel successfully. I was recently on a club rhib with an inboard diesel which was a total source of pain due to being hard to work on and ever so slightly broken. Debugging the breakage was extremely slow and likely very expensive as the engine is no longer properly supported. At least with outboards you can take them off.

There are a couple of really proper RHIBs running out of Oban doing basking shark and wild life tours as well as a bit of diving, as well as at least one running to St Kilda, these could just as well be hard boats except they are easier to get back into. They probably cost as much as a similar hard boat, but will be quicker.

Maybe start small, 30 or 40k on a 7m one for six divers, see how it goes?
 
I'm curious as to why people think the RHIBs ride better that a "Hard" boat. At plaining speeds the RHIB is riding on a hard hull with the same characteristics as any other similarly designed hull. The addition of the tube widens the boat and adds buoyancy over straight hard hulls and makes the boat more stable at slow speeds and at anchor but dosen't really effect the ride at high speed. In 30 years of running various types of boats, both pleasure and commercial, I've found that the RHIB's I'v been in tended to pound, slap, and spray more than similar sized hard hulls. At anchor and slow speed they are nicer though. They don't list as bad when you get divers all on one side of the boat and they're not to rolly at anchor. I think the main reason they are used is for the extra stability and not the ride at speed.
 
Sorry to be harsh but... this question is like a not yet qualified OW diver asking which rebreather to buy. You have a set of requirements which are guesses. Your assumptions sound a bit iffy. For example you mentioned rinse tanks and bottle racks on the engine box of an inboard, honestly that sounds like you have never been on a RHIB in any sort of weather. Even in moderate conditions you need to hold on to stop your feet leaving the deck. Literary anything that is not tied down will vanish. And how fast can you go with a sun shade? Is the sea there completely flat the whole time?

There are a bunch of rhib bases operations in Tenerife you might look at. They all seemed to have regular open rhibs and operate more or less how a U.K. club would, coming back in for lunch. They use a variety from 6.3m Humbers upwards but no cabins. There is a bloke in Kinsale (Ocean Addicts) who used to run a big (8m?) rhib with an inboard diesel successfully. I was recently on a club rhib with an inboard diesel which was a total source of pain due to being hard to work on and ever so slightly broken. Debugging the breakage was extremely slow and likely very expensive as the engine is no longer properly supported. At least with outboards you can take them off.

There are a couple of really proper RHIBs running out of Oban doing basking shark and wild life tours as well as a bit of diving, as well as at least one running to St Kilda, these could just as well be hard boats except they are easier to get back into. They probably cost as much as a similar hard boat, but will be quicker.

Maybe start small, 30 or 40k on a 7m one for six divers, see how it goes?
I'm exploring options. I don't have plans set in stone. My priorities are safety and comfort and financial viability.

As I have stated before, I do plan on working in the area for getting a reality check before I spend any money.

But thank you for your contribution anyway.
 
And how fast can you go with a sun shade? Is the sea there completely flat the whole time?

All our boats (generally 10m GRP with Twin outboards) have shade covers. It’s a necessity here

The frames are mostly 48mm SS tube which for the main are bolted to give some flex since Ali welded tube don’t last as long

Lightly loaded on a flat sea we can hit 50mph (gps registered). When it gets lumpy obv we go slower

So yes shades are practical and the norm in places that actually get regular sunshine (obv excludes the U.K. )
 
One other thing to add,

Availability.

There may be better options for what you want to do but no Financially Viable way to import them. They might be using those boats because thats the easiest boat they can get that meets their needs, not necessarily the best boat for the job.

Good luck. It will be an adventure.
 
.... my hopes is that I would be able to use that space for tank racks, table space,
The cabin takes up too much space. Having a bimini cover is really ideal for the sun.

Now I haven't worked with diesel inboards before (been around them of course), but my hopes is that I would be able to use that space for tank racks, table space, camera rinse stations, ets.

@Diving Dubai brought up the issue of fumes, and that may make me abandon the idea of diesel, but I'll speak to Manthos Marras about that, as he has one on his Kythnos location, outboards at his Porto Rafti location. @sea_ledford mentioned jet drive engines, and I will look into that. My only experience with those engines is when I was on a friend's boat, and he had a friend with a jet boat who would weave back and forth and then go straight to kick up a huge rooster tail to soak us. lol

There really isnt any room for camera tables and rinse stations on a boat in the size you are looking at - that space is more valuable for more passengers to make your operation more economically viable. Unless you are looking to run a premium boutique operation with 2-4 passengers per trip.

Also, there is no real plxace for learning on the job when it comes to maintenance (even after a crash course in marine mechanics). The dependibility of your boat is key to your customers' safety and the reputation of your business so you cant cut corners there until you get it right. Also, if you are busy working on the boat you cant devote that time to the many other aspects of your business that demand attention.

Sorry to be realistic to the point of negativity but you have to go in with eyes open. I wish you the best of luck with your endeavor!
 
Sorry to be realistic to the point of negativity but you have to go in with eyes open. I wish you the best of luck with your endeavor!

Uh, what did you say that was negative? Just good, honest, straight up advice. Thanks! What you said is quite useful and I sincerely appreciate it.

One of the best pieces of advice I received was from @cerich who said that I must work for another dive op in the area before I start my own. See what works, what doesn't for others. That experience alone will save me tens, if not over 100, thousand.

I'm looking at a fast boat license, maybe next year (as I have to have one for two years or hire someone who does), as well as get training on the most popular air compressor in Greece (PARAMINA |). Helping my employer maintain that, as well as the boat engine of whatever type(s) it may be will serve me well.

I'd like to avoid as much trial and error as possible.
 

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