Makeshift STA's or stabilizers? Bolts for wing?

[*Floater*]

I'm about to borrow my single tank warm water rig to a friend (DSS kydex plate and Oxycheq Razor 30# wing), however, I'll be diving independent doubles on my doubles rig at the same time and need the STA to rig those. It's not a big problem since I (he) can just use the cam strap slots on the plate and wing and then cinch the wing between the plate and tank with the cam straps. However I've never tried this except with my (ex-)DSS wing which had a built-in stabilizer/STA, so I'm wondering if there's anything to add stability to this current setup? What about bolts to keep the wing firmly attached to the plate? And does anyone sell SS bolts with curved in heads such that they would act as stabilizers for the tank?

 

[CompuDude]

I don't think it's going to be very stable without an STA... and I seem to recall there are some issues using STAs with Tobin's plates, due to some not-quite-the-same-as-other-plates spacing on the holes. There is a thread somewhere on here...

 

[*Floater*]

I don't think it's going to be very stable without an STA... and I seem to recall there are some issues using STAs with Tobin's plates, due to some not-quite-the-same-as-other-plates spacing on the holes. There is a thread somewhere on here...

The holes on my DSS plates are 11" apart, same as on my Oxycheq STA, and to boot the bottom holes are extra long to accommodate slight difference in double tank bolt spacing or STA spacing. See below:

My only issue was that there was no corresponding top hole for the very bottom hole, but I added one myself in the end so that I could put the STA a little lower.

But anyway, I'm using the STA to dive independent doubles while my friend borrows the rest of my singles rig so I'm still looking for an STA-less stabilization solution.

 

[CompuDude]

Ah, if you modified your plate that may take care of the issue with STAs on DSS plates.

Make sure the wing you want to use has the cam band holes in the same place as the plate... there is no standard there, and they don't always line up. As long as they fit through both fine, however, it should work. You'll have the pleasure of figuring out how to deal with the bolt heads right under the tank, possibly inducing rocking/instability, but it should get you through the dives regardless. But I'm guessing you already know this...

 

[Rick Inman]

I made a warm water STA for about $4.00. My original STA is 2 piece steel, each part about 3" wide shaped like a W. I just took a piece of black PVC and cut it into pieces the same width, cut it once the long way, warmed it in the oven until it became soft strips, and then pressed it into the steel STA for a mold. I filed smooth the edges, and in about 15 minutes, and for practically nothing, came out with an STA that weighs about zero in the water. Perfect for warm water.

My WW STA has seen about 60 dives.

 

[*Floater*]

I made a warm water STA for about $4.00. My original STA is 2 piece steel, each part about 3" wide shaped like a W. I just took a piece of black PVC and cut it into pieces the same width, cut it once the long way, warmed it in the oven until it became soft strips, and then pressed it into the steel STA for a mold. I filed smooth the edges, and in about 15 minutes, and for practically nothing, came out with an STA that weighs about zero in the water. Perfect for warm water.

My WW STA has seen about 60 dives.

I suppose I could try that with my Oxycheq 1-piece STA. Just a little more info. Did you heat the PVC up until the round shape of it actually flattened, or by one long way cut do you mean on both sides of the pipe to form a half circle which you then melted to flatness? And could I use a microwave for this? If not then how long and at what temperature do you bake the PVC? And once you've pressed it against the STA, do you cut off the excess material? What thickness piping is sufficient?

 

[GreenDiverDown]

It's common practice when shaping PVC conduit to use a propane torch. Just keep your flame moving.

 

[Rick Inman]

I suppose I could try that with my Oxycheq 1-piece STA. Just a little more info. Did you heat the PVC up until the round shape of it actually flattened, or by one long way cut do you mean on both sides of the pipe to form a half circle which you then melted to flatness? And could I use a microwave for this? If not then how long and at what temperature do you bake the PVC? And once you've pressed it against the STA, do you cut off the excess material? What thickness piping is sufficient?

I melted to flat, but only cut on one side of the circle so I had a nice long piece. I don't remember the temperature, maybe about 250 degrees, but I was surprised at how fast it became ply-able. Just a couple of minutes.

I think the piping is 1/4 inch thick. It's the black stuff, which is thicker than the white. The thicker material gives good support to the tank.

I have no clue about the microwave.

Maybe when I get some time, I'll cook up another batch and post pics of the process.

 

[cool_hardware52]

Ah, if you modified your plate that may take care of the issue with STAs on DSS plates.

This is gross mis information. There is no need to modify a DSS plate to use a STA. We provide two sets of holes / slots at 11" centers. If you really want to use a STA it's a simple matter to JUST BOLT IT ON.

Tobin

 

[CompuDude]

This is gross mis information. There is no need to modify a DSS plate to use a STA. We provide two sets of holes / slots at 11" centers. If you really want to use a STA it's a simple matter to JUST BOLT IT ON.

Tobin

Easy, tiger. DSS plates ROCK, no doubt. But I do feel they are best used with DSS wings, which result in a fantastic, integrated system. I'm sure you feel the same way... they'll work with other manufacturer's products, of course, but don't you feel they work best with your wings?

The holes for STAs (or doubles) on DSS wings are 100% standard 11" spacing, no doubt, you just bolt the suckers on, as you say.

The [minor] issue that I have seen mentioned in a NUMBER of threads on this board, is since the DSS plates are designed to work so well without a STA, a few design decisions were made which make using them WITH a STA somewhat less than ideal: Primarily, the 11" holes are moved up a bit compared to where other manufacturers put them. This places the STA higher up on your back, and may move the valve of a singe tank with STA too close to your head for comfort (I haven't tried, this, but I've read at least 3 threads over the past couple of years that mention this). You can't move the tank farther down, because the top cam band strap of the STA is usually right at the upper edge, and unless you are Nemrod and can cut new cam band slot holes lower in the STA (see this photo), it results in a less-than-optimal solution.

All I said was that there was "an issue", not that it wouldn't work at all. Please don't forget who your fans are.