Maglite Mod Thread

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Hi Hector,

Well you've inspired me to have a go at doing my own after watching for so long. Going to try the DX 5x Cree module first.

Any chance of continueing/finishing this - next step is heatsink.

I'll PM you shortly to find out shipping and total costs for a bunch of parts once I find out how much I can get the OMS canister for here.

Do you still use the std maglite end cap for the agro gland or do you replace it with your new delrin one?? I am tempted to make a new thicker stronger aluminum end cap with a nice groove for adding a tail loop to connect a double ender to. I don't suppose you could share the thread details for both internal and external threads on the maglite barrel could you?

:D

Haha, good luck with the build! The threads are all 20 TPI threads.
I quit doing the custom tail cap project because I realized, even though the tailcap is thin, it will hold the gland just fine. Now don't go putting 100lbs of torque on it, but it's fine for the job! It would be nice if we could put a double ender in there... The main thing is that I don't want to disturb the anodizing. I may see how a delrin cap would come out with a hole for cave line on it...

OMS cans are on back order until Feb 20th. I am waiting for some right now. I get them a bit cheaper than most people. They range from about $40-56 plus shipping.

You may be able to get away without a heatsink on the module since the reflector contacts the Mag head on a few places. I have one of the 1200 lumen modules coming so I'll see if it is even a possibility to stuff it into a heatsink.

My heatsinks are just basically spacers that the modules slide into for contact with the barrel, nothing fancy!

I do like the DX 5 Cree module. It's as bright as an SST-50, has a nice tight spot and should consume less power.

Let me know which parts you need, I should have everything in... Well, except for the canisters.

Oh, in case you or anyone has missed this, here is a thread on the SST-50 vs the 1200lm module from DX
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/do-yourself-diy/368843-here-another-light-build-comparison.html
 
Hi Hector,

Do you put the orings between the lens and the DX dropin or bezel and the lens? I'm still waiting for the DX dropin.. it's been 2 months already.
 
Hi Hector,

Do you put the orings between the lens and the DX dropin or bezel and the lens? I'm still waiting for the DX dropin.. it's been 2 months already.



Haha yes, that's DX. You put the orings where the originals were. So one in front of the lens and one around the head threads. The smaller one in the tail cap.
 
BTW, The DX module consumes about 1.6 amps. This was reported to me by a guy who just got one. That is at 7.4 volts. So it is about as much as the XML and 1 amp less than the SST-50. Also, about same as SSC-P7 and Cree MCE...
 
BTW, The DX module consumes about 1.6 amps. This was reported to me by a guy who just got one. That is at 7.4 volts. So it is about as much as the XML and 1 amp less than the SST-50. Also, about same as SSC-P7 and Cree MCE...

Hi Hector. I thought R2 can only handle 1 amps. Is the DX module overloading the LEDs to 1.6 amps?

I'm planning to supply it with two 32650 batteries in parallel for a total of 3.7V. I was thinking it'll provide me a longer runtime and the module won't heat up as much. This is of course I'm assuming that the driver is linear. Will the brightness be the same at 3.7V compared to 7.4V?
 
Hi Hector. I thought R2 can only handle 1 amps. Is the DX module overloading the LEDs to 1.6 amps?

I'm planning to supply it with two 32650 batteries in parallel for a total of 3.7V. I was thinking it'll provide me a longer runtime and the module won't heat up as much. This is of course I'm assuming that the driver is linear. Will the brightness be the same at 3.7V compared to 7.4V?


No, they must be in parallel... You probably don't want to run 3.7 volts as that is very close to the LED's Vf and you may lose brightness pretty quick. Also, minimum voltage for most of DX larger modules is 5 volts.
 

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