Looking for some tank feedback

[MechDiver]

I'd argue that having many different types of tanks is good so you can select what is best for the dive.

Planning is a much easier way to dive. I shore and river dive with double LP-95s, use steel 80s for same, and alum 40s for deco. A smaller set of doubles would be nice, but there is no overriding reason to get them.

MD

 

[theskull]

Planning is a much easier way to dive./QUOTE]

As Chris A stated very well having a selection of tanks IS part of the dive planning. You plan which of your tanks is the BEST choice for the location and depth of the dives you have planned to do.

Noone is trying to talk YOU into changing your equipment. We are responding to Fishy, who had some questions about which tanks to buy and whether it made sense to mix and match sizes or just buy all of the same thing. In responding to this question, your opinion is every bit as valid as the other opinions, and it may be the right decision for you, but is only one of the available options for Fishy. I'm sure the question was posed to initiate just this type of discourse, from which Fishy can pick and choose which answers seem most reasonable for his budget and diving preferences.

Perhaps I should ask forgiveness for earlier stating that some of the opinions given were weird, but I did state it as my opinion and did not label any of them as "wrong" or "poor planning", just weird choices in my opinion.

Peace and happy diving,
theskull

 

[Fishy8411]

To explain the reasoning behind my madness, so you can better pick it apart.

The galvanized steel 72’s were free, which is a good thing and I’ve come to respect their durability. Also, I’ve read more than one thread here at ScubaBoard, where much more experienced divers than I, have sung the praises of a set of doubled 72’s. I am only considering doubling them at this point (maybe next year), but I figure 144 cubic feet of air should give me a fair amount of bottom time (I’ve got the plus rating back).

I thought I should have at least one aluminum 80, because it seems that is what most rental places in the Caribbean stock and I should be familiar with any differences.

I like the specs on the Faber LP 108. I am inclined towards an LP because it is easier to get fills and with the cold water in Michigan, it is safer (less risk of free flows). I don’t believe I can handle a set of doubled up 108’s, my back is not in the best shape. Presently, my budget (and marriage) can only handle one of the tanks, considering all the money I spent on the rest of my gear.

I think most of my future dives (at least for the next year) are going to be shore dives, either in Lake Huron or some of the Ohio quarries. Which should make switching between different styles of tank, much easier.

I want to thank everyone for their input, I am paying attention. I haven't committed to any course as of yet and I probably won't make a purchase for another month.

Tom

 

[theskull]

Fishy,

Thanks for the clarification. My additional 2 cents worth:

The aluminum 80 is ubiquitous. You can buy it cheap (especially used), you can rent it anywhere, and it is enough air for almost any single dive that a rec diver will do. If the 80 isn't enough air for you, then your time and money will be better spent diving with some good buddies who can help you improve your air consumption than on additional tanks. The 80 is also great in that if you move on to something else, you can loan it out to dive buddies or convert it to a stage bottle. Can't lose with this option. Also, you can typically buy 2 Al 80s for the price of 1 Steel bottle.

If I was only going to buy ONE tank, however, I would certainly choose the LP 108. With a good overfill you will have almost as much air as in 2 al80s (not that I would overfill a tank!!), and you will get more diving out of it since you only leave the last 500 psi in it wasted once--this point may be a bit confusing at first read, think on it. You will also need to wear 4 or 5 lbs. less lead with the steel than the al.

Another opinion--it sounds as though you are fairly inexperienced. If so, leave the doubles idea for later after you have truly MASTERED your buoyancy and trim with a single tank. Really no need to ever go doubles unless or until you decide to get into overhead or deco diving and need the redundancy.

Good luck on your selection,

theskull

 

[ChrisA]

Fishy,


If I was only going to buy ONE tank, however, I would certainly choose the LP 108. With a good overfill you will have almost as much air as in 2 al80s (not that I would overfill a tank!!), and you will get more diving out of it since you only leave the last 500 psi in it wasted once--this point may be a bit confusing at first read, think on it. You will also need to wear 4 or 5 lbs. less lead with the steel than the al.

theskull

If you like the LP108, why wouldn't the PST E8-119 be better?

(This is not a 100% retorical question because I'm thinking about buying the E8-119 and would prefer to hear any reasons why I should not buy it _now_ rather then later.)

The Faber LP108 is a good tank. I was able to rent a Fabor LP95 last weekend to try it out. They had an LP108 in the store for sale but right next to it were some PST E8-119. These are the same physical size as the LP95 but can be filled to 3442 psi. If the e8-119 is under filled to 3000 it has 107 cu. ft. of air. Same as the Faber tank.
But you have the option to fill to 3442 with no need to feel guilty about it of for a "+" stamp.

So the e8-119 is physicall shorter smaller then the LP108 but even if underfilled to 3000 holds the same amount of air as the lp108 but if the lp108 looses it's "+" rating it becomes an lp98. The price for both tanks is the same $290

I've been told that PST's new "E" series tanks are the same dimensions, size and weight as the old "LP" tanks but they are now using a stronger kind of steel so the tanks can now be filled to 3442 insted of 2640. OF course you could still fill them to 2640 and have an LP tank but I imagine most of these E tanks will be under filled to 3000.

With my Weight integrated BC I don't care about tank weight. What I care about is the total weight of tank and lead and it all comes out real close.

close but with one glaring exception. The PST e7-80 would save me 13 pounds of total weight

 

[Fishy8411]

If you like the LP108, why wouldn't the PST E8-119 be better?

(This is not a 100% retorical question because I'm thinking about buying the E8-119 and would prefer to hear any reasons why I should not buy it _now_ rather then later.)

The Faber LP108 is a good tank. I was able to rent a Fabor LP95 last weekend to try it out. They had an LP108 in the store for sale but right next to it were some PST E8-119. These are the same physical size as the LP95 but can be filled to 3442 psi. If the e8-119 is under filled to 3000 it has 107 cu. ft. of air. Same as the Faber tank.
But you have the option to fill to 3442 with no need to feel guilty about it of for a "+" stamp.

Thanks for the information, how much does the E8-119 cost?

Tom

 

[Nay]

A note on the AL 80, get a compact 80. It will probably cost you a little more (shouldn't be more than $50 more) but it's negatively buoyant empty, keeps a horizontal trim and is so much better than a standard 80. Sports Chalet can probably order one for you and www.scuba.com has them.
I'm biased because my dad makes them (no, I can't them for you for free) but I've dived with a standard and a compact and it well worth it.
Here's the specs on the cylinders for you. http://www.catalinacylinders.com/scuba.html

 

[ChrisA]

Thanks for the information, how much does the E8-119 cost?

Tom

The local shop sells the PST E8-119 and the Faber 108 for about the same price. As I remember $295 for the PST and $285 for the Faber.
Sports Chalet (In So. Cal) has the PST for less so you could say the
two tanks are the same price. The E7-100 is also the same price

 

[ChrisA]

A note on the AL 80, get a compact 80. It will probably cost you a little more (shouldn't be more than $50 more) but it's negatively buoyant empty, ...

One thing about that tank is that it wants to be filled to 3300 psi.
Many of the local dive boats can only do 3000 psi fills so you will
be doing your 2nd and 3rd dives on a short fill. But only 10%
short so maybe enough.

 

[oharag]

Here's why I chose a Faber LP 108 over any PST tank out there at the moment:

- You cannot get PST tanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- At 2665 PSI for the 108's I get 112 cu ft of air.
- At 3442 PSI for the PST 119 you get 119 cu ft of air.
- At 3500 PSI for the 108's I get ~ 148 cu ft of air. ***

I keep hearing the reason why HP tanks are going by the wayside (traditionally not as popular as LP) is because there are some fill stations out there that cannot fill beyond 3000 PSI (This is rare though). So with HP tanks (and now the new E-Series tanks from PST) you get short fills. At least with LP tanks you should be able to at least get to the rated PSI of your tank easily. With over filling you get an additional advantage.

What I keep hearing about the PST's is that they have excellent buoyancy characteristics near empty. They also have excellent weight char empty. I wanted to purchase E7-120's but I missed the boat. Maybe I'll purchase these tanks later on when they actually become available.

oharag

*** This is with overfilling. Been done in the Tech community for a long. If you can find a LDS that does this it's a huge benefit with increased air capacity.