Looking for some tank feedback

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Fishy8411

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Right now I am using two old steel 72's, which I like but not enough bottom time. I am thinking about buying a LP Faber 100 (actually a 108) and an aluminum 80. In a year or so, when my skills (and budget) have improved, I am considering doubling up my 72's. That is pretty much my plan as far as tanks go. I might pick up another aluminum 80 or a steel 72, if I see an extremely good bargain.

I am planning my tank purchases based on the type of diver, I envision myself becoming. I do not plan on going deeper than 130 feet and no entry diving of any kind.

Any feedback or thoughts would be appreciatted.

Tom
 
Hi Tom.

I personally dove on AL80's for years and then switched to LP Faber Steel 95's a few years ago. I switched to the steel tanks to redistribute some of the weight I needed to carry from my belt to the tank. However, the extra air is always nice. And I like that the steels stay negatively buoyant.

My only concern for the your plan is having so many different tank sizes. You will be constantly changing the band on your BC or wing to accommodate the different tank circumferences. & changing your weighting between a LP 100 and and a AL 80. Could get confusing and tedious.

What size tank and material they are made of are a very personal choice. Almost everyone will have a different opinion. Perhaps you should rent or borrow different types of tanks and dive with them to help make your decision.

See you at a quarry soon!
Paula
 
I agree, let the fisherman be constantly digging in his tackle box. The diver, on the other hand, should think the problem through, make a decision, select his kit and stick with it.

diver_paula:
Hi Tom.

I personally dove on AL80's for years and then switched to LP Faber Steel 95's a few years ago. I switched to the steel tanks to redistribute some of the weight I needed to carry from my belt to the tank. However, the extra air is always nice. And I like that the steels stay negatively buoyant.

My only concern for the your plan is having so many different tank sizes. You will be constantly changing the band on your BC or wing to accommodate the different tank circumferences. & changing your weighting between a LP 100 and and a AL 80. Could get confusing and tedious.

What size tank and material they are made of are a very personal choice. Almost everyone will have a different opinion. Perhaps you should rent or borrow different types of tanks and dive with them to help make your decision.

See you at a quarry soon!
Paula
 
Fishy,

I have had tanks leak, and have them blow an o-ring, but have never had tank feedback. . . just lucky, I guess.

Your plan sounds good to me. I have 2 Faber LP 108s and 2 Aluminum 80s. The 108s are great for extended bottom time or just diving the whole day on 2 tanks. The 80s are perfect for easy dives when you want lighter gear, plus you can throw a strap on them and take one along as a stage if you want some serious bottom time.

I believe that your gear SHOULD be like a tackle box, and that you should pick and choose the best tool for the dives you plan to make on a given day or weekend. A good diver will hardly notice the difference in buoyancy characteristics between tanks when switching back and forth as long as he remembers to add the 4 pounds when changing from the LP steel to the Al 80. Last time I strapped on a tank (Sunday) the strap had a sliding buckle that very easily changed length to accomodate either the LP steel or the Al 80 tanks.

theskull
 
Fishy has already said that the 72s don't carry enough air. If he's going for a mix of tanks at least they should be the same diameter and buoyancy. The plan for converting the 72's to double tank block sounds reasonable. Usually, single tank diving and double tank diving carry a different dive plan altogether. A day with double and single tank plans is not unusual. However, embarking on a day of diving with single tanks of different buoyancies, lengths, air capacities, valves and diameters is questionable. It's a good way to waste time and misplace lead weights and other gear. At the very least, this stuff has to be located and sorted while on a crowded boat. For that type of diving a check list would be handy.

theskull:
Fishy,
I believe that your gear SHOULD be like a tackle box, and that you should pick and choose the best tool for the dives you plan to make on a given day or weekend. A good diver will hardly notice the difference in buoyancy characteristics between tanks when switching back and forth as long as he remembers to add the 4 pounds when changing from the LP steel to the Al 80. Last time I strapped on a tank (Sunday) the strap had a sliding buckle that very easily changed length to accomodate either the LP steel or the Al 80 tanks.

theskull
 
pescador775:
Fishy has already said that the 72s don't carry enough air. If he's going for a mix of tanks at least they should be the same diameter and buoyancy. The plan for converting the 72's to double tank block sounds reasonable. Usually, single tank diving and double tank diving carry a different dive plan altogether. A day with double and single tank plans is not unusual. However, embarking on a day of diving with single tanks of different buoyancies, lengths, air capacities, valves and diameters is questionable. It's a good way to waste time and misplace lead weights and other gear. At the very least, this stuff has to be located and sorted while on a crowded boat. For that type of diving a check list would be handy.

I agree. Different tanks just makes it harder to plan your dive and make sure you changed weights/whatever for what you have. I dive steel doubles and steel singles, with backplates/wings setup for each. Thats all the hassle I care to deal with for each style of diving.

Also, if you going to get tanks, get two of the same thing. Double 72s make a nice setup, but I would go somewhat larger to get two dives from a set. I get three single dives from my double 95s if the boat can accomodate them, and that is much less hassle than carting around 3 single tanks.

MD
 
You are absolutely right about the double 72's but that's what the man has. Double 72's are really nice but were originally designed for Navy use (replaced triple 44's) meaning they were used for a single decompression dive with stop of about 15 minutes. To make two non deco dives a set of double 90's is needed. Normally, this arrangement supplies enough air for two working (wreck dives) to 80' with enough air left over to pull the hook. That's my experience but I never took 'safety' stops on these kind of dives. Recently, I've started with the stops(!) and I decided on double 100's. That is mostly because they are available and have good characteristics of weight and buoyancy besides carrying a lot of air (gas). Our poster 'fishy' admitted to the deficiency by saying that individual 72's do not have enough air. If he takes BOTH tanks on the same dive he certainly should have enough air.

MechDiver:
I agree. Different tanks just makes it harder to plan your dive and make sure you changed weights/whatever for what you have. I dive steel doubles and steel singles, with backplates/wings setup for each. Thats all the hassle I care to deal with for each style of diving.

Also, if you going to get tanks, get two of the same thing. Double 72s make a nice setup, but I would go somewhat larger to get two dives from a set. I get three single dives from my double 95s if the boat can accomodate them, and that is much less hassle than carting around 3 single tanks.

MD
 
This is why they call them "opinions". I think there are some weird ones on this thread.

If a man wants doubles, I can't see settling for anything less than Al 80s or LP Steel 95s--get some serious air in there.

For singles, different sizes give you versatility--example: use the big tank (LP 104) on the deep dive, then the little tank (Al 80) on the shallower second dive. Do you really need a checklist to remember to bring a pair of 2 lb. weights to shove in the trim pockets when you switch to the Al tank?? Consult the checklist to know that the tank strap will be a little tighter on the smaller tank?? Go to the checklist to remind yourself to see that your air is turned on before the dive?? If so, there is no way you're going to remember that 80 has less air volume than 104, so the dive planning may be too complicated. Oh--Just checked my checklist and discovered that shallower or shorter dives require less gas, so the smaller tank will work on that dive--but I would suggest occasionally checking your SPG a few times during the dive just to be sure you have enough.

theskull
 
theskull:
This is why they call them "opinions". I think there are some weird ones on this thread.

If a man wants doubles, I can't see settling for anything less than Al 80s or LP Steel 95s--get some serious air in there.

For singles, different sizes give you versatility--example: use the big tank (LP 104) on the deep dive, then the little tank (Al 80) on the shallower second dive. Do you really need a checklist to remember to bring a pair of 2 lb. weights to shove in the trim pockets when you switch to the Al tank?? Consult the checklist to know that the tank strap will be a little tighter on the smaller tank?? Go to the checklist to remind yourself to see that your air is turned on before the dive?? If so, there is no way you're going to remember that 80 has less air volume than 104, so the dive planning may be too complicated. Oh--Just checked my checklist and discovered that shallower or shorter dives require less gas, so the smaller tank will work on that dive--but I would suggest occasionally checking your SPG a few times during the dive just to be sure you have enough.

theskull

Yea, like you said, everyone has opinions. Some are useful, and some are useless.
 
diver_paula:
Hi Tom.

My only concern for the your plan is having so many different tank sizes. You will be constantly changing the band on your BC or wing to accommodate the different tank circumferences. & changing your weighting between a LP 100 and and a AL 80. Could get confusing and tedious.

Paula

I think having several different tank types is a _good_ thing. I currently have an LP80 and am trying to decide what I want next. If I'm diving off a boat, I don't care much about the total weight, heck I only have to walk three steps, then splash. But at the beach I want less weight. With 65 pounds of gear on, standing in knee high water a chest hieght wave can knock me down, take 10 pounds off and I can manage better.

I think the PST E7-80 nice for the beach. It's light and small and
very negative so I can even take out a couple pounds of lead
but it must be filled to 3442 psi, no prolem at the shop but
boats will give me a short fill.

The LP95 is way heavy for the beach (or the hike back up a trail to the car after diving.) But most boats can do a fill to 2640 psi
The PST E8-119 has about the same specs and price as the Faber
LP95 but can be filled to 3442 for a masive 119 cuft or if short filled on a boat it's got 95 cuft.

That said, AL80's are $100 locally, complete with the first fill. Makes then attactive compared to a $300 steel tank.

I'd argue that having many different types of tanks is good so you can select what is best for the dive.
 
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