Looking for some regulator troubleshooting and advice on buying replacements

[Scuba Shibe]

Hello all,

My first post here! I am currently an experienced rec diver in the PNW where our water temp here varies between the high 40s and mid 50s. I’ve been using an OMS Airstream Evoque reg set as my primary - recently I transitioned to a doubles set up so now I have two OMS regs. I often have free flow issues at the surface with both 2nd stages, even when the Venturi lever is set on “pre-dive” mode - my back-up 2nd stage has the air flow knob all the way set to low. Both reg sets are within their service intervals, the back-up set is almost new with only 3 or 4 dives.

Do these issues sound like they are an inherent design flaw of the regs or do I need something fixed/adjusted?

The second part of my issue is that I am looking to enter the tec diving world within the next 12 months so if my current regs can’t be “fixed”, I am considering replacing them entirely but am unsure my allotted budget (<$1000 for two sets) will allow me to purchase something that’s considered an upgrade over my OMS regs. I have done a fair amount of research - I am considering the DGX Gears Xtra, Dive Rite XT, and Atomic Z2 (ScubaPro is out of my budget). I am looking for a sealed 1st stage, ideally with 5 LP ports and a swivel turret (better for a doubles configuration), and a two-year service interval. I’d prefer a piston 1st stage as I’ve only used diaphragm up to this point but could go either way.

Thanks for reading, any insight would be appreciated.

 

[johndiver999]

Compact IP Gauge (PSI and BAR)

 

[Centrals]

Backmount Doubles Packages - Regulator Packages - Regulators

A grand.


OMS PRODUCT SAFETY RECALL


Free flow is quite common especially in cold water diving if you are NOT careful.

SCUBA Regulators-Cold or Warm Water? - Dive Right In Scuba

 

[davehicks]

You most likely just need these regs tuned properly to avoid the free flows. I am sure you can rule out design or water temperature. Who did your last service and when was it?

Do you have an IP Guage you can use to test your first stage? Go ahead and get one for $10 so you at least make sure that is not out of spec.

 

[Scuba Shibe]

You most likely just need these regs tuned properly to avoid the free flows. I am sure you can rule out design or water temperature. Who did your last service and when was it?

Do you have an IP Guage you can use to test your first stage? Go ahead and get one for $10 so you at least make sure that is not out of spec.

I sent it to OMS for the last service. There was an IP issue and they warrantied the repair and did the annual service while they had the reg. I can’t remember how long ago but definitely within the last 6-12 months.

 

[Scuba Shibe]

I want to add, I always rinse out my 2nd stages when I get home from my dive. I also should clarify, the free flow I mentioned underwater was more of a steady trickle than complete failure. I shut off the valve on that post mid-dive and when I reached a shallower depth, I reopened the valve and it seemed to have resolved itself.

 

[lexvil]

Sealed piston firsts are the limited to atomic or older scubapro, sealed diaphragm is much easier to find, the Z2 can be sealed but lacks the swivel turret, for what you are looking to do the M1 is the sealed piston to look at as far as new sealed piston with swivel.

your OMS are probably fine but need to know about the IP to see if it’s an IP creep issue or second stage seat.

 

[Centrals]

http://pdf.divedui.com/OMS_Manuals-Current/OMS_Regulator_Owner_Guide_v6_INCC-2017.04.pdf

The 2nd stage may be just need a little bit tuning down.
P13 Venturi lever
P14 Make sure the adjusting screw is NOT completely out(fully counterclockwise). Half a turn in should be enough.
If the IP is steady and the adjusting screw is NOT fully out then the 2nd stage seat is suspected. You can test it at home. All you need is a IP gauge and a full tank.

IP gauge is a must for every diver to monitor the performance of the 1st stage. Make a record of it in the beginning,

 

[davehicks]

I want to add, I always rinse out my 2nd stages when I get home from my dive. I also should clarify, the free flow I mentioned underwater was more of a steady trickle than complete failure. I shut off the valve on that post mid-dive and when I reached a shallower depth, I reopened the valve and it seemed to have resolved itself.

Lots of good advice on this thread to deal with they problem. If it's just bubbling a little bit then an adjustment is likely needed on the 1st and/or second. The IP gauge will help pin down the source, and some tuning of the 2nd stage can be done in the sink.

Check this out as a guide for what to look for: Regulator Inspection and Checklist (Rev-8) | ScubaBoard

 

[Scuba Shibe]

http://pdf.divedui.com/OMS_Manuals-Current/OMS_Regulator_Owner_Guide_v6_INCC-2017.04.pdf

The 2nd stage may be just need a little bit tuning down.
P13 Venturi lever
P14 Make sure the adjusting screw is NOT completely out(fully counterclockwise). Half a turn in should be enough.
If the IP is steady and the adjusting screw is NOT fully out then the 2nd stage seat is suspected. You can test it at home. All you need is a IP gauge and a full tank.

IP gauge is a must for every diver to monitor the performance of the 1st stage. Make a record of it in the beginning,

This is helpful, I know my primary 2nd stage has the knob cranked all the way open, I will adjust it and see if it helps.