Long shot. Anyone know where to get DSS wing locator rubber nipples?

[TT_Vert]

These might not work in practice; Tobin’s are 1/2” dia at the retention flange and 1/2” thick — but they’re fairly close:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/b...-thickness~17-32/for-material-thickness~9-32/

I could actually make those work but the hard part would be pulling them through. If they pushed through and were pretty snug they'd certainly work! Thanks

 

[lairdb]

That's exactly my thought as far as layer separation when pulling. The other option is to print it 90 deg to that axis and use supports.

​

Or slice them down the stem axis into two identical halves (which then print on the flat sliced surface, giving the good layer direction), and then perhaps glue them together — or perhaps not; they might self-stabilize once both halves were in.

 

[lairdb]

@TT_Vert @Johnoly what do you think of this for printability?

Print, fold, insert.

(Dimensions not correct yet; I just sketched it by eyeball to get the concept down.)

 

[lexvil]

Oh, I thought this was about the featured dancer at the DSS club… my bad

 

[Johnoly]

@TT_Vert @Johnoly what do you think of this for printability?

I'm just a noob at printing. But I've seen bendable stuff done in TPU that's squishy and really good. The horror stories I've heard using TPU filament is that it loves to soak up humidity when spooled and that drives nozzles crazy. Printing technology is changing so fast, it's exciting to see how designs are being updated literally every few minutes even on ScubaBoard !!

 

[Saffadiver]

Ok, took a few seconds and threw this design together if anyone wants to print any of these. It is dimensionally identical to the one I have on hand. STL attached, feel free to print, modify and use. Please do not sell, not that anyone here would.

View attachment 909217

Would not us this unless you get it nylon printed on SLS/MLS (the model is solid! thanks TTVert), but you can easily turn this into a mold for some better rubbers.

there is no orientation on a household printer which would make me trust the layer adhesion for something like this.

 

[Saffadiver]

@TT_Vert @Johnoly what do you think of this for printability?

View attachment 909234

Print, fold, insert.

(Dimensions not correct yet; I just sketched it by eyeball to get the concept down.)

Thats SUPER easy to make a mold from for something better.

 

[lairdb]

Okay, fixed the dimensions to match an original. This roll of TPU is a little old and damp, so some ugly stringing -- but doesn't materially affect the outcome.

I put a little chamfer on the leading edge of the smaller disc; I'm thinking there should be a substantial fillet where the post meets the larger disk, just to strengthen that stress point -- any other suggestions?

/********************************************************************************************/

Edited to add some testing:

The holes in my backplate are 0.36 inches; neither the original nor my homemade will fit through reasonably. I grabbed some bench junk with a slightly bigger hole and they both can be tugged through.

Would not us this unless you get it nylon printed on SLS/MLS (the model is solid! thanks TTVert), but you can easily turn this into a mold for some better rubbers.

there is no orientation on a household printer which would make me trust the layer adhesion for something like this.

I clamped the end that was through and hooked up a scale and pulled 70lbs without breaking (or even materially deforming) the homemade one. (I actually thought the base would tear off first, but it didn't. I added that fillet anyway; can't hurt.) The material I used was Overture TPU, claimed at 95 duro; I printed it solid.

 

[TT_Vert]

Or slice them down the stem axis into two identical halves (which then print on the flat sliced surface, giving the good layer direction), and then perhaps glue them together — or perhaps not; they might self-stabilize once both halves were in.

That would work if you can bond the two halves well enough. A flexible epoxy would be ideal.

@TT_Vert @Johnoly what do you think of this for printability?

View attachment 909234

Print, fold, insert.

(Dimensions not correct yet; I just sketched it by eyeball to get the concept down.)

Don't see why that would not work w/ a good epoxy. or even just a friction fit as once inserted the pieces are effectively held together.

I'm just a noob at printing. But I've seen bendable stuff done in TPU that's squishy and really good. The horror stories I've heard using TPU filament is that it loves to soak up humidity when spooled and that drives nozzles crazy. Printing technology is changing so fast, it's exciting to see how designs are being updated literally every few minutes even on ScubaBoard !!

Yeah I've made key holders, people make phone cases, the stuff is good. Just not sure how well it'll fare being pulled often. I now put my filament in a large airtight container w/ an IOT thermometer to monitor temp/humidity. Always keep it under 35% but I'm unsure if it's helped.

Would not us this unless you get it nylon printed on SLS/MLS (the model is solid! thanks TTVert), but you can easily turn this into a mold for some better rubbers.

there is no orientation on a household printer which would make me trust the layer adhesion for something like this.

I could design up a mold really quick for this too if people want that. Never actually done a mold before.

Okay, fixed the dimensions to match an original. This roll of TPU is a little old and damp, so some ugly stringing -- but doesn't materially affect the outcome.

View attachment 909257

View attachment 909258

View attachment 909259

I put a little chamfer on the leading edge of the smaller disc; I'm thinking there should be a substantial fillet where the post meets the larger disk, just to strengthen that stress point -- any other suggestions?

/********************************************************************************************/

Edited to add some testing:

The holes in my backplate are 0.36 inches; neither the original nor my homemade will fit through reasonably. I grabbed some bench junk with a slightly bigger hole and they both can be tugged through.



I clamped the end that was through and hooked up a scale and pulled 70lbs without breaking (or even materially deforming) the homemade one. (I actually thought the base would tear off first, but it didn't. I added that fillet anyway; can't hurt.) The material I used was Overture TPU, claimed at 95 duro; I printed it solid.

Are you saying the dimensions of the STL were not true to original piece for you? Depending on the material some structural improvements could be made for sure. if you filet that area, you will only have a small surface area contacting the actual wing though (the filet itself). Would love to see your final result. What adhesive will you use (If any?) I can modify one to fit your dimensions also if you'd like but it sounds like you have it handled. I'm surprised the TPU is holding up so well.

See what i mean about the filet. Chamfer and round added. if you added a receiving countersunk spacer you could do this and still have a perfectly mated surface w/ good surface area (Not that you need surface area)

 

[lairdb]

Don't see why that would not work w/ a good epoxy. or even just a friction fit as once inserted the pieces are effectively held together.

Yep -- just held by the pieces around it seems to be okay.

Are you saying the dimensions of the STL were not true to original piece for you? Depending on the material some structural improvements could be made for sure. if you filet that area, you will only have a small surface area contacting the actual wing though (the filet itself). Would love to see your final result. What adhesive will you use (If any?) I can modify one to fit your dimensions also if you'd like but it sounds like you have it handled. I'm surprised the TPU is holding up so well.

No slight to your STL implied -- I didn't pull your STL; quicker for me to start from scratch.

Re. the fillet, it would contact the grommet, which is somewhat curved; I suspect the compromise is worth it.

Here's my current revision, before the split operation:

...and here's a section view with a #2 grommet:

I was also surprised how well the TPU held up -- I expected it to tear at the stem/disk interface, but it didn't.