DIR- Generic Lightweight backplate for tropical singles & twinsets?

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If you're looking for something cost effective, I would go with an AL backplate. If you care about brands or matching all your gear, you could go with Big H (Halcyon). Pretty big every manufacturer has an AL backplate out there. I bought a carbon fiber backplate for just a little more additional weight savings for travel or when I travel to Florida to do some cave diving and need to dive some water heater style doubles (HP130s, LP104/LP108, etc).

Titanium is nice, but as some others have said, it's pretty similar in weight to an AL backplate. Yes, they're stronger but perhaps some people like the flamed rainbow look of certain titanium backplates.

Speaking of weight savings, Aluminum D-rings and sliders are lighter than Titanium ones. I added Titanium D-rings and tri-glides to my ultralight weight rig for the bling factory and since they were lighter than SS hardware.

An old Halcyon Pioneer 20# wing or the newer style travel 20# wing would be good if you really wanted to shave a little extra weight or you're one of the "ounces = pounds" type of people.

My ULW travel rig
- Halcyon 30lb wing (I could have used a 18 or 20# wing, but I don't travel much, so I just use what I have)
- Halcyon CF standard BP
- Halcyon CF STA
- Cam Bands with plastic buckles
- Helium Dive Titanium bolts for the STA (you will need to modify them a bit since they're not exactly the same spec for the Halcyon STA square
- Helium dive Titanium hardware
- Dive Rite Titanium Sliding D-ring on left hip since it's paper thing and weights next to nothing
 
If you're looking for something cost effective, I would go with an AL backplate. If you care about brands or matching all your gear, you could go with Big H (Halcyon). Pretty big every manufacturer has an AL backplate out there. I bought a carbon fiber backplate for just a little more additional weight savings for travel or when I travel to Florida to do some cave diving and need to dive some water heater style doubles (HP130s, LP104/LP108, etc).

Titanium is nice, but as some others have said, it's pretty similar in weight to an AL backplate. Yes, they're stronger but perhaps some people like the flamed rainbow look of certain titanium backplates.

Speaking of weight savings, Aluminum D-rings and sliders are lighter than Titanium ones. I added Titanium D-rings and tri-glides to my ultralight weight rig for the bling factory and since they were lighter than SS hardware.

An old Halcyon Pioneer 20# wing or the newer style travel 20# wing would be good if you really wanted to shave a little extra weight or you're one of the "ounces = pounds" type of people.

My ULW travel rig
- Halcyon 30lb wing (I could have used a 18 or 20# wing, but I don't travel much, so I just use what I have)
- Halcyon CF standard BP
- Halcyon CF STA
- Cam Bands with plastic buckles
- Helium Dive Titanium bolts for the STA (you will need to modify them a bit since they're not exactly the same spec for the Halcyon STA square
- Helium dive Titanium hardware
- Dive Rite Titanium Sliding D-ring on left hip since it's paper thing and weights next to nothing
Damn. This is a show off rig. Mind weight it and share the number?
 
I'll check the weight when I go home.
 
Here is a some measurement pictures I have over the years

Ti density: 4.5g/cm3
Al density: 2.7g/cm3
Steel density: 7.6g/cm3

Right off the bet, we can see Ti back plate over Al doesn't make sense. For Ti to break even, it needs to use 60% of the material of Al by volume. For backplate, just how thin you can make it before snapping.

My regular size H AL plate is 1.7lb (measured), which isn't the lightest AL plate to begin with. Helium dive Ti back plate is 2lb at their site.

Ti will have advantage of SS. About again 60% of the weight if same volume of material is used.

SS Dring: 1.2oz each, 5 in DIR harness, total 6oz
SS bucket: 7.4oz for 2. 2 in DIR harness. Total 7.4oz
SS triglides: 2.1oz for 7. 7 in DIR harness. Total 2.1oz
SS STA: 1lb-1.7oz

Total 2lb-1.2oz. Let's call it 2lb. Going to Ti will save 0.8lb, let's call it 1lb saving. But I wonder if all these can be Al as well. AL will be even lighter. But afterall, we are talking about 1lb. How much money do one want to spend to save 1lb?

Having that said, it is never about just weight saving. I will absolute take Ti if I can afford it. :)
 
For ultimate weight savings, you're absolutely correct that AL D-rings/hardware are lighter than Ti. I do feel some a little more comfortable with the construction and strength of Ti for D-rings, etc. For example if I were to carry a stage or deco bottle and were to climb up a ladder on a dive boat or low and behold do a beach dive and have to do a long walk down the stairs and across the and to get into the water.

I think some of us are chose Ti hardware for the "bling factor" as people say these days or Rule 6 in DIR terms.

@eelnoraa Are you in the market for some Ti hardware? Are you in BAUE by any chance?
 
Isn’t 18lb lift with HP120 too tight? 120cf of air is like 10lb already. To float yourself with head confortably above water, 8lb isn’t enough. Keep in mine, when you head is above water, so is your reg,

Yes, I now think 18 lbs is not enough lift for a steel HP120. With my regulator, lights, and accessories I'd be cutting it close.

Sounds more reasonable with an AL80 though.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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