Lights in the meantime

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The Princeton Tec LED light is nearly as bright as a Halcyon 10w HID canister I used to own. They are around $99, which is less than I paid to replace the bulb and ballast. I gave my Halcyon light away.
 
The photon torpedo backups, with the SL4 eLED emitter is a damn fine light for a reasonable price, same with the Halcyon Scout.
 
The intova LEDS are really bright and only $40 per on Divegearexpress. I know someone trying to sell their 10w Halcyon for around $400. Maybe hed go 300.
 
IF your handy and want a project...go onto dealextreme.com and search for Cree XP-G. Its a 3 watt LED that is almost as bright as a 10w HID. You could fit it into any backup body, probably including the intova. I'm waiting for mine to come in the mail so I can put them in the intova.
 
IF your handy and want a project...go onto dealextreme.com and search for Cree XP-G. Its a 3 watt LED that is almost as bright as a 10w HID. You could fit it into any backup body, probably including the intova. I'm waiting for mine to come in the mail so I can put them in the intova.


The drop in intended for the surefire P6 takes only a little work and you can drop it into a PT/RAT/Scout. I have one with an XR-E that is really nice, I just ordered one with an XPG. They just uprated these to 1.5 amps, so for 5watts, you get about 500 lumens, same as a 10watt HID. If I like the drop in, I'm going to order more.
 
Why are we suggesting Intova LED's in the DIR forum? I don't mean to be rude about it, but it seems that the DIR forum has become the tech diving forum.
 
The drop in intended for the surefire P6 takes only a little work and you can drop it into a PT/RAT/Scout.

I just finished a couple of the XR-E drop-ins. Very nice light output.

- a 7.5 mm slice of 1" I.D. PVC pipe with a slight bevel to one inside edge presses onto the drop-in fairly easily. Use either a drill press or bench vise.

- 1 1/4" brass washers from McMaster Carr
McMaster-Carr

can be drilled and sanded up to press fit onto the body of the drop-in providing the electrical connection. The center hole should be just around .85" but measure twice, cut once.
... again, use a drill press or bench vise to press the washer on. Make sure the fit is snug but loose enough that you're not struggling to press the washer into place. If the fit becomes too loose make sure to "fix" the electrical connection by placing a dap of solder connecting the washer to the body.

The finished drop-in have a slightly looser fit than the standard light module, so either shrink tubing or a few wraps of electrical tape can be used to firm up the fit. It'll work fine without it though.

Maybe I should order a few of the XP-G modules :)

Henrik
 
Sorry I saw the thread on the main page and never noticed it was a DIR thread. Since it was brought up, I suppose that dir backups must be twist on still? But if the OP is looking for a substitute primary for the meantime thats cheap and is used for light night diving, Intova is a good light. Canister lights have switches, so why can't this?
 
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Sorry I saw the thread on the main page and never noticed it was a DIR thread. Since it was brought up, I suppose that dir backups must be twist on still? But if the OP is looking for a substitute primary for the meantime thats cheap and is used for light night diving, Intova is a good light. Canister lights have switches, so why can't this?
My only issue is that this forum is where those curious to DIR diving often come to for advice, and there's non-dir answers being given with no disclaimer. While these might make acceptable primary lights, they're a poor choice for backup lights for a variety of reasons.

  • 1st and foremost, Intova doesn't test their products, at least not enough for me to trust them. This is simply unacceptable when it comes to backup lights, and isn't even a DIR vs Non DIR issue. Intova actually posted this comment on a public forum- "We had a real problem with switches initially....Our lights are really good except for this issue" Cave Diver's Forum - Cave Diving Resource - View Single Post - Bad experience with Intova
  • Second, the bolt snap attachment on their lights that I've seen is screw in, and can come out with 3-4 twists, a poor choice.
  • Third, they all have switches, which are in no way DIR.

Now we have the Halcyon Scout style backup lights that are nearly as bright as the older Intovas, but admittedly a poor match for the new ones. These lights meet DIR standards and can make a direct transition to a "tech" backup light. Since the OP is on a budget, I think it's important that we suggest gear that he will not have to RE-buy later on! I'm a college student, so I appreciate more than anyone people who advised me on gear choices to limit how much I had to rebuy. Sometimes the answer is "$200 isn't enough for a primary, sit out a a dive charger and pay $275 for a 10w HID". It's a struggle enough buying things like doubles, a can light, a scooter, etc without rebuying gear.

I would strongly suggest the OP keep an eye out for a used salvo/halcyon 10w HID on cavediver.net or thedecostop.com. Here's a link to one that recently went for $250 10 watt Sea Elite/Salvo HID - Cave Diver's Forum - Cave Diving Resource. We're talking marginally out of his price range, but a piece of gear that he'd never have to buy again.

Sorry, I didn't mean to pick on you, my biggest issue is with those like DAAquamaster who makes a habit of posting ideas which are not DIR in the DIR forum. My gear setup isn't DIR compliant (I put a light sock on my backup light tucked with my harness when scootering), but I can at least have the courtesy to not recommend those things in this area of the forum.
 

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