PfcAJ
Contributor
What kind of water temps and what kind of hood?
Lights and heaters
- Thread starter broncobowsher
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broncobowsher
Contributor
Typically about 50° although upper 40s can be had. The hood has been gradually getting thicker, typical 7mm. 5mm wasn't enough. I learned what a cold head is. The Waterproof 7mm is a good fit. Dry gloves are already in use.
There is also local discussion about heading up to the great lakes sometime. I am sure that is even colder, probably going for a 9-10mm hood for that. This would be a week or so of diving, as cold as I plan on getting into (and doing anything that is long, deep, and deco).
Keep in mind that I have been living in Arizona for 20+ years. My reference point for cold is slightly shifted from northerners. I never said I 'need' a heater, I just want one. Much like you don't need a heated blanket, but they are nice.
There is also local discussion about heading up to the great lakes sometime. I am sure that is even colder, probably going for a 9-10mm hood for that. This would be a week or so of diving, as cold as I plan on getting into (and doing anything that is long, deep, and deco).
Keep in mind that I have been living in Arizona for 20+ years. My reference point for cold is slightly shifted from northerners. I never said I 'need' a heater, I just want one. Much like you don't need a heated blanket, but they are nice.
Depending how deep you would be going on the Great Lakes, plan on bottom temps around 40F, give or take a few degrees.
I was working with two cave CCR students this weekend that apparently have problems signaling with their UWLD lights due to the spill and the lack of a focused area. I've never really spent time with one of those lights in the water, it seems like it's well made but it has a very wide beam angle and produces a bit of back scatter in silt.
Personally, I have 3 different light heads, and what I use is based on what's going on.
1. 21w HID - older technology, great light, punches through silt/tannic water, great for signaling.
2. 32wVF Light Monkey - newer light, VERY bright. It has a bit of spill. The things I like about this light are it is very bright and works well in clear water and it has multiple settings, on low it'll work fine as a reading light and last for days. The things I do not like about this light are there's a fair bit of back scatter on high in water with particulate. Setting it down to the mid-level fixes the particulate problem.
3. Halcyon Focus 2 - newer light. This thing is a light saber when on a tight beam, and can be opened wide enough to almost use it for video lighting. Things I like about this light, it punches through particulate and doesn't chew up batter life. Things I hate about this light, there's a weird effect where when it's on high you see only the thing you're pointing the light at, and completely miss everything else (it's probably because it is so bright my pupils are closing). I typically run it on mid-power.
All of my light heads are on EO cords so I can match them with the appropriate battery as needed. EO cords take some maintenance, de-oxit gold contact cleaner and some fine grit sandpaper are my best friends.
Personally, I have 3 different light heads, and what I use is based on what's going on.
1. 21w HID - older technology, great light, punches through silt/tannic water, great for signaling.
2. 32wVF Light Monkey - newer light, VERY bright. It has a bit of spill. The things I like about this light are it is very bright and works well in clear water and it has multiple settings, on low it'll work fine as a reading light and last for days. The things I do not like about this light are there's a fair bit of back scatter on high in water with particulate. Setting it down to the mid-level fixes the particulate problem.
3. Halcyon Focus 2 - newer light. This thing is a light saber when on a tight beam, and can be opened wide enough to almost use it for video lighting. Things I like about this light, it punches through particulate and doesn't chew up batter life. Things I hate about this light, there's a weird effect where when it's on high you see only the thing you're pointing the light at, and completely miss everything else (it's probably because it is so bright my pupils are closing). I typically run it on mid-power.
All of my light heads are on EO cords so I can match them with the appropriate battery as needed. EO cords take some maintenance, de-oxit gold contact cleaner and some fine grit sandpaper are my best friends.
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Jack Hammer
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UWLD makes solid product, very high quality. I use their battery and controller with my Santi vest, it keeps me warm for a long time in very cold water. The 5 choices for heat settings let's you find a balance for a little heat during the swimming portion or more heat for deco. Even on deco in 39f/4c water I rarely run it above the 3rd level.
I dont care for the UWLD light beam pattern as half my diving is in less than stellar vis and the amount of backscatter irritates me. Though in fairness, I traded the light to one of my dive buddies who really likes it and doesnt mind the backscatter. I'm happily using my 1st gen Focus which is easy to adjust the beam pattern in the fly for signaling, looking in holes, or lighting up a wider passage. BTW, the low setting on the Focus 2 is the same output as the high setting on the Focus1.
DRIS had a few different 3 C cell 1000lumen labeled lights. One was a small can like light that personally didn't like. The others are their 3C cell 1000 lumen handheld backups that are bright enough to work as a primary. I have a few of those and still carry one as a cave diving backup.
I dont care for the UWLD light beam pattern as half my diving is in less than stellar vis and the amount of backscatter irritates me. Though in fairness, I traded the light to one of my dive buddies who really likes it and doesnt mind the backscatter. I'm happily using my 1st gen Focus which is easy to adjust the beam pattern in the fly for signaling, looking in holes, or lighting up a wider passage. BTW, the low setting on the Focus 2 is the same output as the high setting on the Focus1.
DRIS had a few different 3 C cell 1000lumen labeled lights. One was a small can like light that personally didn't like. The others are their 3C cell 1000 lumen handheld backups that are bright enough to work as a primary. I have a few of those and still carry one as a cave diving backup.
I like my UWLD light, but its about the widest beam you will find. And it washes out 21W HIDs big time. For signaling in a cave you need to be reasonably close to a wall otherwise the signal gets lost. For the great lakes with very clear water (relatively speaking) its lovely. For actual cave exploring (often solo) I find the wide beam a huge asset for figuring out the way on. For silty water it sucks.
Personally I have never liked the idea of having my heat and my light dependent on the same battery. Its dirt simple to convert a used canister into a heater battery. The old 14.4V 9ah nimh cans become 11.1V 15ah li-ion cans; put a LM pitkin lid on it and its just about perfect for me with a 50w vest. From the sounds of your post you are wanting to buy an off the shelf system though.
Personally I have never liked the idea of having my heat and my light dependent on the same battery. Its dirt simple to convert a used canister into a heater battery. The old 14.4V 9ah nimh cans become 11.1V 15ah li-ion cans; put a LM pitkin lid on it and its just about perfect for me with a 50w vest. From the sounds of your post you are wanting to buy an off the shelf system though.
My wife and I are who Ken is talking about. We love our UWLD lights for big clear cave, but even with a little haze in the water the beam angle sucks. We've had them for years, and have a set protocol when cave diving. Lead diver always drops the light down to medium and second diver on full high. If it gets silty or hazy, lead diver drops to low and second to medium or low. We have learned to communicate to each other if we are dropping down the light (if we can) so that we match the protocol. At this point, we've gotten pretty good at signaling each other in the cave and are able to watch if the other person's light disappears and reacting quickly. Again, I really love the light because it shows you everything, but I also have a bit of a hate for it due to its beam angle and the associated signaling intricacies. I think an inexperienced cave diver could miss out on their buddy's signal if they haven't used the UWLD alot. In silty stuff, the beam angle just sucks even on low and the backscatter makes the limited viz issues worse. Even in just smokey cave if you have the light at the wrong position compared to your eyes, it can really negatively affect viz. We've learned in smokey cave to drop our hands and the backscatter reduces.
Build quality and customer support are excellent. Honestly though, I'm looking for an additional light for less than perfect, big cave dives. I'm leaning to the Focus, but it sucks that it won't work with the uwld can on an e/o. I'm likely going to get a focus on an e/o with a lm or halcyon canister.
I have been using a 21W LM LED for the last 7 years. It is on an E/O cord and it replaced a 21W HID. The HID had a better punch, and there is definitely more scatter with the LED, but it works well in the Great Lakes and the glorious caves when I get to them. There is a nice spot in the center of the beam that makes signaling a non issue. I’ve lusted after the 32W Variable, but none of my buddies have a light that bright, and I’d rather spend the money on a dive trip so I just can’t justify an upgrade.
Taath
Contributor
@broncobowsher I am also an Arizona diver. I currently dive a Light Monkey 24w primary. Also using the LM 15ah battery, heating controller, and heated undergarment. I'd be happy to show you my setup and let you try the light out.
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