Light build help

[lionfish-eater]

Hi just received my 5 led 1200 lumen module from deal extreme. I now need to adapt the maglite head and body. I am planning on cutting down the length of the tube and making a canister light. Lots of good advice and pics on this site and cpf. My question is this. Can I make a battery pack that will fit in the original three D body? If so how long could I expect it to run? If I go the canister route, what would be a good battery choice? what are my options and what are the trade offs. The light would be for recreational night diving, no caves or deep wreck penetrations and would only have to last for 60 to 75 min. I was thinking of using two parallel stacks of six AA's in series. I think this would give me 7.2 volts, which should be within the range for this module. I think the pack will fit if I stack 4 rows of three batteries. Does this make any sense. Also, how to best waterproof the lens and bezel area. I replaced the plastic lens with a glass lens. Should I silicone or RTV sealant the lens to the module and the module into the head? I dont plan on having to get into the head after it is complete. Do you prefer JB weld to silicone or epoxy?

Thanks in advance, I look forward to any help.

Get out of the jar!

 

[Ed Palma]

I'll just comment on the battery options, as there are a lot of threads with info regarding the bezel. If you wanted a pack that would fit in the original mag body, your best bet would be with a li-poly battery. Needless to say, its the sort of pack that I want to make absolutely sure is built properly, and that the canister is likewise built properly. I'm sure you've already perused through the CPF threads regarding the differences in the various battery chemistries and their attendant pros and cons.

 

[350xfire]

Use the correct o rings and you should not have to use any sealant.

Do not use epoxy unless it is waterproof. Most of that Wal-Mart stuff will get brittle and fall off when exposed to water. I like JB Weld best, but like I said, use right o rings and you don't need it. I do use a bit of clear non-corrosive silicone around o rings sometimes as a secondary seal.