lets Talk Spearfishing Bands and Wishbone

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Location
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I have notice a few different color bands and of course thickness.
Are YOu using the right size and thinkness and how do you know?

Wishbones? there are a couple of different types out there? now which one do you use and why? how can you compare them?

With my previous gun, AB Miller 48. I used two 19mm 3/4'' bulk tubing with a stainless steel wishbone.

Who actually makes there own bands?
I was just curious who also brings along extra bands when actually diving?

Happy Hunting Espically with the warmer weather coming to visit us soon up here in the Northeast
 
I use 2 5/8 x 22 hi-viz yellow bands on my 48 Biller. I tie them myself using stainless steel cable wishbones. I mostly shoot with a single band, so the 2nd band on the gun is my spare. Plus I mostly dive off a boat where the owner keeps a few spare bands in the cabin, so I can scrounge one if I need.
 
Many spearos make up their own bands. Not all "tie" them. Sometimes, I use SS rings but have gotten lazy and mostly just tie them. I use 19 X 1, 3/32 SS cable bridles (wishbones) and make them myself. The procedure has been described on Deeper Blue and Spearboard (search peskydor). The cable is cut, bent and each end is inserted into a mould filled with hot solder. For guns with fins I use string wishbones. These are 2.8 mm spectraspeed. Just tie knot on each end and insert into rubber. Normal length for a cable or string bridle is 5-6 inches. There is a trend to use very short string bridles.

The correct stretch ratio is 3.5 and there is a formula for calculating it. Practically, I would suggest you use rubber tension consistent with your needs and abilities. For a Biller 48, either 9/16 X 3 X 21 or 5/8 X 2 X 22 are normal loads when using soft rubber.

There are many different rubber compounds. The black coated amber bands sold by Biller are the softest. The toughest rubber known is "mean green". Then, there is "Mori" rubber. This is black and also has "high modulus" (tough to pull).

Riffe sells a compound similar to Mori in amber and black.

Extra bands are needed when making long trips or expeditions. Other extra equipment may be needed. Otherwise, if your bands are in good shape there is usually no need to take extras on day trips. If your gun is left in a very hot automobile the bands may break the first time stretched.

I do not recommend use of amber rubber under certain circumstances. The amber rubber seems to glow when stretched and is quite noticeable to game fish. However, most types of amber seem to be very durable if kept out of the sun.

To answer your question as to why and what bridles: Strings are cheap and easy to make up and do well with arrows equipped with fins. The strings may break when inserted into slots. For slots, the home made cable bridle is best and will last approximately 5 years of average to heavy use. Wire bridles, IMO are obsolete, junk. There are other wishbones made in Europe such as the "articulated" wishbone. I recommend you stay with other, proven types and that you may consider making your own.

Before making or tying a bridle, look up the knot called " constrictor". This is used to constrict the band and secure the bridle inside the band. Learn to tie it. Do so and follow up with several wraps of nylon whipping twine and finish with a square knot. If experiencing difficulty inserting the knot into the band try greasing the knot or obtaining an
insertion tool.

Pesky
 
Very interesting. Thanks guys.
 
anyone have a used gun that they no longer need/want for trade or purchase?
 
I'll explain about the wishbones:

Make a mould; cut a one inch block of aluminum, 7/16 thickness. Drill a hole 5/16 dia, 5/16 depth. Purchase a roll of radio solder, resin core. Purchase a 4 oz bottle of COMET flux (for stainless steel) (Brownell"s sells). Purchase a few feet of 3/32 cable. This cable is 19 strand (19 X 1), from sail shop or similar.

Insulate the jaws of the vise with a piece of asbestos or similar. Place the block into the vice. Cut a piece of cable and bend in the middle. Heat the mould with propane torch. Do not heat the solder. Run a string of solder into the hot mould. Dip one end of cable into a small cup of Comet. Place the cable end into the mould and continue to heat gradually raising the heat to the cable where it joins the solder. When the cable looks wet, remove heat and steady the cable while checking to see when the solder stiffens. When rigid, pull the cable from solder. The resin is a lubricant and allows for smooth extraction. If you pull too soon, the cable will come free of the solder. If you wait too long, the resin may grab making it hard to remove the cable and ball. The drilled hole in the mould must be smooth or it may grab the cable.

Clean off resin with acetone.

Pesky
 
Edit: the above should read "when rigid, pull the cable from mould", not "pull the cable from solder".
Pesky
 
Far simpler then Cable:

http://www.medfish.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=244

migt require you to waste 30sec of your life with a file to take sharp edges off your shaft notches.

as for the articulated wishbones mentioned above: 12yrs spearfishing, never had one break, and killed lots of fish with them. Obsolete? gimmie a break!
 
Articulated wishbones were developed to accomodate the shallow grooves in skinny shafts. However, they are simply ludicrous, unnecessarily complex, overkill. I get a chuckle just typing this. Plain wire bridles are actually dangerous.

Strings are OK but they don't last more than a year. The dyneema and spectraspeed might hold up a bit longer.

The homemade cable wishbones last five years minimum and are well suited to resist abrasions (notches, crimping sleeves). They are very useful for large guns which require a one handed pull. They give a great feeling of confidence when every component of one's kit must function reliably. Making them is fun, more so if it is a group effort. Bring some beer.
 

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