Komodo with SMY Mangguana

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Wisnu

Contributor
Messages
1,773
Reaction score
822
Location
Bali, Indonesia
# of dives
1000 - 2499
Most of people will think about the Komodo dragon - the largest lizard on Earth. Indeed, it’s amazing creatures – but the real treasure of Komodo is located beneath the sea - and for that reasons, we visited Komodo National park

How to get there

Actually, it is quite easy to get there. No direct flight from Jakarta but at least 5 daily flights (Lion/wing , Merpati, Sky, IAT and Trans Nusa) from Denpasa to Labuan Bajo - a dusty small fishing town located at the western end of Flores in the Nusa Tenggara.
I recommend to choose airline with two flights per day – choose the morning flight. In case of cancellation, you still have a chance to get there with next flight. Unlike Garuda, none of those flight is divers friendly, maximum luggage is 15 kg or you pay extra for overweight.


Lion Labuan Bajo by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr
Other alternative, or if you don’t like using turbo propeller air plane or your flight is canceled, you can always charter a private jet.


Dont panic Labuan Bajo by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr
In fact, we saw two chartered jets were parking at Komodo airport.

SMY Mangguana

There’s lot dive center and tour operator in Labuan Bajo provide day trip to Komodo National Parks – either for diving/snorkeling and or jungle track for Komodo dragons. For divers, the best way to enjoy Komodo national park is using LOB (Liveaboard). Unlike a day boat operation, liveaboard offer its guests with all inclusive package, including unlimited diving to stay on board for typically 3 or more nights. Most of LOB Indonesia use traditional pinisi boats made from teak wood.

During high season July – September, more than 70 liveaboard is operating in Komodo National Parks; the low end boats (sleeping on mat on the deck, share bath room) for less than USD 200 per day per pax up to more than USD 600 for the luxury pinisi schooner.
Our choice was SMY Mangguana – a 27m overall length, 5.5 m beam, traditional wooden Phinisi Schooner, with 4 A/C cabins and ensuite bathroom. Unlike other boats which typically has fixed schedule, depart and return from Labuan bajo or Bali , she sails non stop in Komodo national Park all the time. We can join her anytime and for as many days as we like.


SMY Mangguana by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

Our room, quite small compare to land base resort - but not bad for a liveboard


SMY Mangguana 4 by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

The typical “unlimited” diving is organized up to 4 times a day, including night dive where condition permit. A typical day on SMY Mangguana start with light breakfast start at 06:30 then followed by morning dive at 07:30, proper breakfast at 09:00; second morning diving at 11:00, lunch at 13:00 – sunbath or short nap before afternoon diving at 15:30 ; snack time, night diving at 18:30 and dinner at 20:30.


SMY Mangguana 3 by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

Komodo Topsides by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

Komodo Topsides 3 by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

Before every diving, a thorough briefings are accompanied by hand drawn maps on white board. Since the boat only cater max. 8 divers with 2 dive guide, the preparation on the dive deck is not crowded at all.
Since our family is four – we have our own dive guide. This is one of our main consideration when we choose this boat. So we can dive to our style which typically slowly moving, not very deep but mostly take approximately 1 hours.
Apart from an incident on our first day, the crew were exceptional. They pretty much takes care of everything; tank and BCD stay on the tender, and the crew refills them after each dive and ensure each tank fill was right around 200 barg.

The Diving

August is the best time /conditions in Northern part of Komodo National Park – the sea was calm, water temps 26 – 28 C, but this mean the busiest time as well. There's several occasion where we were sourounded with a dozen other liveaboards.

Strong current?
Sure, there is current as Komodo is well known for; but not all, in fact only about 20% of dives had significant or strong current. On few location, such as castle rock, we dived with strong current, and we had to use reef hooks – the reward was amazing; fusiliers, giant trevally, napoleons wrasse, barracuda, whitetip reef and grey reef sharks including the big pregnant one made me wary, patrol around us for 3 times while we’re hanging on our reef hook. Sorry, no pics – very difficult and too risky for taking photo on this situation as well as several other occasion when we simply chose to enjoy the attraction rather than with our camera.

The cauldron aka “shot gun” is really up to its name. This passage between Gili Lawa Laut and Gili Lawa Darat on the northern tip of Komodo Island gave us the most exhilarating and exciting dives - flying over rocky ridges and down into sandy bottom cauldrons with churning waters overhead before exiting from a beautiful reefs.

Without doubt, Komodo national parks offer the best dive sites what Indonesia has to offer, same league as Raja Ampat. As far as what you can expect to see, pretty much everything: fish soup, lush beautiful reefs, walls, drift dives, roller coaster, pelagics, and muck diving as well.


Tutie Komodo by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

Me by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

Komodo seascape2 by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

Cel and glassfish Komodo 2 by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

Barracuda Komodo by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr
Our favorite dive sites in Komodo is the castle rock, crystal rock, batu bolong, cauldron and Wainilu (muck diving)

The manta point aka Makasar reef was a disappointment for us – no manta at – there was no current at that time could be the reason. And, this is another reason to come back to Komodo

The Dragon

Besides all of the great diving, typically all liveboard offers private excursions on white sand beaches and jungle trekking escorted by park rangers to discover the wildlife on the islands. SMY Mangguana was not an exception. In lieu of one afternoon dive, we took a visit to the rangers’ station at Loh Buaya on Rinca island, home of komodo dragons. They offer 3 routes: short, medium and long. Most people, including us took medium route; approximately 1.5 hour trekking.


Komodo National Park 2 by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

Komodo National Park 3 by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

Actually, it was far easier and more dragons to see around the rangers houses than while we were trekking Rinca mountainous and dry grounds. Still, it was very interesting experience.


Komodo Dragon 2 by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

Komodo Dragon by Wisnu Purwanto Family, on Flickr

More pics from our Komodo trips can be seen here

Komodo August 013 - a set on Flickr
 
Wow, Komodo Cruises sprung for some upgrades. Or does another company run this boat now? Actual sink in the cabin! No more washing up and brushing teeth in the shower! Also new deck furniture. This is the boat where we met Hila Jansen, the first-class dive guide who is now with Divine Diving in Labuan Bajo.
 
Great report, makes me wanna go back asap! :wink:

Love the shot with the turtle!
 
Wow, Komodo Cruises sprung for some upgrades. Or does another company run this boat now? Actual sink in the cabin! No more washing up and brushing teeth in the shower! Also new deck furniture. This is the boat where we met Hila Jansen, the first-class dive guide who is now with Divine Diving in Labuan Bajo.

HD
Komodo cruise is running this boat.

---------- Post added October 15th, 2013 at 11:34 AM ----------

Some absolutely great shots. Love your work!

Thanks Al,
Glad you love it

---------- Post added October 15th, 2013 at 11:37 AM ----------

Great report, makes me wanna go back asap! :wink:

Love the shot with the turtle!

Thanks Dim,
we love to go back as well .. but not in the near future, not cheap if you have four divers in the family
 
Great photos...gotta love Komodo.
 
Winsu, great photos. The Komodo National Park is Awesome. I have got to return in 2014.
 
Great stuff wisnu, glad you had a nice trip albeit no mantas, which is unusual. So..Reason to go back! How many days did you dive?

Thanks gavin,
indeed not big deal without manta, probably due to no current
we had 4.5 diving day only,
yes, we plan to come back next year at least for a week.
 
For mantas in Komodo, try and get to Manta Alley (which I think is in the south and only dived earlier in the season?). I did two dives there which were just incredible. The multiple mantas at the cleaning station were actually the lowpoint of the dive - the really awesome part was afterwards when we moved into the shallow water and hung out with the mantas in the current at about 10 feet. They were hovering motionless above the very colourful reef and seemed completely unperturbed by us divers who could get as close as we wanted - a photographer's dream.

Mantas on the Moon/Makassar Reef was awesome too, but nothing beat being that close, that shallow, to that many mantas.
 
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