J-Valve to K-Valve

[Toad]

I just had an old Sportsways 65 steel and J-Valve hydro and visual tested.. It passed. Dive shop could not put air in the tank! New O ring and all the yokes they had. Air came out around yoke. This J-Valve TREADS are much smaller then the standard valves. I'm unsure of the correct size... but smaller. I'm haveing problem locating a valve. Is there a K-Valve made with smaller treads?

 

[WreckWriter]

I bet it's an old 1/2" post valve. Good luck finding one, it's a really old thing, seals with teflon tape and the whole routine.

Tom

 

[Bob3]

Gotta ask, did the shop have the handle in the DOWN position when they tried to fill?
You can yank the innards out of the J & turn it into a K, but it's best to have someone who's done it before show you.
Where ya at?

 

[Tm530]

And they don't have the right size o-ring on there. These seal the same as a 3/4 inch tank valve. If not, then it's 1/2 inch tapered (the valve threads will be vivible above the tank neck, even when tight), and will need to be installed with a wrench and teflon plumbers tape. There's nothing wrong with either, they are just older styles of valves that are obsolete in the scuba industry. As long as the valve itself is in good working order, they will work fine. If you need parts, you could be out of luck.
Tom

 

[Toad]

Well.. Here's where I'm at today.. I think my old J-Valve needs and old fill whip in order to fill the tank. My local does not have one. Maybe one of my other locals does. But!!! If it takes an old whip and yoke to fill this old tank. Will I also need an old style 1st stage regulator to fit it.. Meaning I'll need an old style 2nd stage to fit the old style 1st stage. See where I'm going with this?:doctor: I'm thinking about chunking the whole deal. But right now I'm enjoying the research and the chase. Thanks for all the responces!

 

[Bob3]

There is no such thing as an "old fill whip".
The valve face was no doubt deformed when they cranked the valve back in, not an uncommon practice when a shop is unfamiliar with that valve style.
The proper wrench placement is with the jaw IN CONTACT with the face, not along side where it can bend the side of the valve in.
Got a Dremel Moto Tool? Just shave a hair off the edge that's deformed.
You can always watch ebay for another old 1/2" NGT thread valve, or ask John at NE Scuba.
I'll give ya $5 for your old one.

 

[Toad]

No old fill whips? Maybe the valve was taken off the wrong way. Grabing from the side is what I'd do. I'll look at it closer and see if it looks bent out of shape! Wish I had a way of testing it! I'll let you know how it all comes out! Again. Thanks for the feed back!

 

[Toad]

Looking at this valve.. Danged if it don't look bent. I got my digital out in the car. If I get a good close up. I'll find some way to post it!

 

[Toad]

Man! Am I good or what :doctor: Check my profile and see the valve in question!

 

[Toad]

I think the Dremel Tool worked! I tried an old US Divers reg I have and it sort of wabbled on the valve. You could see it would not go in and seat. After removing the O-ring and covering the airhole with masking tape, I used a Dremel with a small cylinder bit to shave away about 1/32" or less of the edge. Now the US Divers reg seems to fit. I'll find out tomorrow when I go the my LDS for a fill. Then I guess I need to check for leaks with my regs.

Thanks for all your responces. And a BIG THANKS to BOB3 for the Dremel suggestion!