I got my Intova IFL 660 and just finished modifying it like I did my wide-angle Nova light, I took lots of pictures this time.
Started off with disassembly, which took a vice and a pipe wrench to remove the head of the light (they glue them on) then the rest of the light was easily disassembled into all of the pieces.
The little black washer that you see in the photos intova installs over the XP-G LED that they're using in these lights now, I made mine really thin by sanding it down on a DMT sharpening block for knives that I have. It also had to be filed out to be widened in order to fit over the 5mm XML LED that I put into the light. Filing before making it thinner is best to prevent breaking it.
On the driver (an 8x AMC 7135) I cut the jumper connection on the board to star 1 and soldered the wire onto star 2 which gets me 5%, 100% and Strobe modes on the light. Stock they come 5%, 30%, 100%, SOS (in morse ) & strobe. I think you can get the drivers now without the default jumper to star 1 if you look for them, the ones I have all had the default jumper on the PCB.
The star board is a 10mm board with a XML U2 LED on it, I had to trim it to fit inside of the ring that holds the pill inside of the light. The reflector also screws into that ring. I used shin-etsu thermal compound for this, probably some of the best stuff you can get for non-conductive thermal transfer.
I used a 3/4" drill to drill out the body on this one as well so now it'll accept a single re-chargable Li-Ion 18650 cell as I have a whole bunch of them. Body gets quite hot doing this, I did it with a battery-powered drill, 3/4" black oxide bit and some cutting oil. Had to hold the light in a vise for it. Didn't drill the entire inside diameter out, as the body has a keyway that the pill sits in to hold it in the correct orientation for the magnetic switch on the outside. I left about 1-2mm of it so it forms a ring that the pill can still key into.
Pictures pretty much explain the whole process.
Beam shot up as well, I'm pretty happy with the results, not bad for a $50 light, $12 hallsw board, $3 driver and $10 LED. So total about $75 for an extremely bright and compact dive light that puts out a good beam pattern.
Started off with disassembly, which took a vice and a pipe wrench to remove the head of the light (they glue them on) then the rest of the light was easily disassembled into all of the pieces.
The little black washer that you see in the photos intova installs over the XP-G LED that they're using in these lights now, I made mine really thin by sanding it down on a DMT sharpening block for knives that I have. It also had to be filed out to be widened in order to fit over the 5mm XML LED that I put into the light. Filing before making it thinner is best to prevent breaking it.
On the driver (an 8x AMC 7135) I cut the jumper connection on the board to star 1 and soldered the wire onto star 2 which gets me 5%, 100% and Strobe modes on the light. Stock they come 5%, 30%, 100%, SOS (in morse ) & strobe. I think you can get the drivers now without the default jumper to star 1 if you look for them, the ones I have all had the default jumper on the PCB.
The star board is a 10mm board with a XML U2 LED on it, I had to trim it to fit inside of the ring that holds the pill inside of the light. The reflector also screws into that ring. I used shin-etsu thermal compound for this, probably some of the best stuff you can get for non-conductive thermal transfer.
I used a 3/4" drill to drill out the body on this one as well so now it'll accept a single re-chargable Li-Ion 18650 cell as I have a whole bunch of them. Body gets quite hot doing this, I did it with a battery-powered drill, 3/4" black oxide bit and some cutting oil. Had to hold the light in a vise for it. Didn't drill the entire inside diameter out, as the body has a keyway that the pill sits in to hold it in the correct orientation for the magnetic switch on the outside. I left about 1-2mm of it so it forms a ring that the pill can still key into.
Pictures pretty much explain the whole process.
Beam shot up as well, I'm pretty happy with the results, not bad for a $50 light, $12 hallsw board, $3 driver and $10 LED. So total about $75 for an extremely bright and compact dive light that puts out a good beam pattern.
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