Inon UWL - H100 or nauticam WWL - 1

[funscuba]

I have the nauticam RX - 100mk2 and have the Inon UWL - H100, the problem is that when I want to take a picture or video, to avoid the corners of the lens to be seen on the picture I must zoom a bit, does that do the same on the nauticam WWL - 1 or not (btw, is that the latest model ?) A bit frustrating to tell the truth.

Is the nauticam lens much better than the Inon, if yes on what criteria ?

I am also interested to know how I could get the colors at a certain depth if using any of the 2 lenses, is there a red filter I could add between the lens of the camera and the wide lens or what else option would you have ? I know you will tell me to adjust the white balance during the dive but it's such a hassle.
I use to see all the time great UW videos using fish eye or wide lenses with excellent colors UW at greater depths, means + 15 - 20 - 30m, any tips how to do that ?

Thanks for the help !

P.s : is the nauticam MWL - 1 meant for larger cameras like reflexes or it can also be used for my RX - 100mk2 UW?
If I understood correctly it is made for macro and wide lens shoots UW right, as a combo ?

 

[aviator8]

I don't have the WWL-1so I cant comment on vignetting. On the color issue, within the first few meters you lose reds, yellow, and orange from the spectrum. To balance that out you have a few options, add light in the form of strobes or video lights, or use a lens red filter for blue/clear water or magenta filter for green water. Keep in mind thought that the filter works to balance the colors by reducing greens and blues reaching the sensor thus creating and apparent increase in reds. That only works so deep. Beyond 20meters or so there simply is no red left so filters wont help. Adding light is a more reliable way to achieve better color. Light falloff in water is much quicker than in air so you need to be CLOSE to your subject for strobes or to an even greater extent with video lights to help. When i say close i mean between 1-5 feet depending on the power of your light source. I would also recommend that you shoot in RAW as this gives you a non-destructive way to do your white balance afterwords.

White balancing with your camera underwater is going to be a problem as it will max out after just a few meters depth. I just use auto WB and shoot RAW and correct afterwards.

 

[outofofficebrb]

I have a RX100M4 and I debated the WWL lens. It is significantly more expensive, but also heavier, and you will need a buoyancy collar. IIRC, it is the only lens that offers full zoom through capability. Zooming in or cropping the image does not bother me considering the weight savings. Though if you have money to spend and don't care about the weight or bulk, go for the WWL1, it is supposed to be excellent.

Manual white balance is the best way but the Sony WB maxes out underwater compared to other cameras like Canon or Nikon, etc., so shooting in RAW and doing a little post processing may be required. Your best bet to counteract this or minimize it is to use strobes as @aviator8 mentioned. I vote spending less money on the lens and forgoing the WWL1 and spend more on the strobes. Get as much light as you can afford. Having a wide angle wet lens will allows you to get closer to your subject and maximize more light as well, and reducing the distance, as mentioned before, will help with colors.

I recall there not being any filters that are compatible with the camera while also using a wide angle lens. Perhaps someone can correct me on this or provide other info.

Here are pictures from my most recent trip to Raja Ampat using the UWL-H100 with the dome and 2 YS-D2 strobes.

Amazon Photos

 

[aviator8]

I have the UWL-100 non H model and use this filter which seems to work well. You will need to check if the H UWL-H100 lens has the same outside dimensions as the UWL-100 though.

Ikelite Tropical Blue Water Color Filter for 3.6" Ports

 

[outofofficebrb]

I have the UWL-100 non H model and use this filter which seems to work well. You will need to check if the H UWL-H100 lens has the same outside dimensions as the UWL-100 though.

Ikelite Tropical Blue Water Color Filter for 3.6" Ports

I am having trouble visualizing how you use this. Do you not have a dome? Where do you install it relative to the lens and dome?

Thanks!

 

[aviator8]

I do not have a dome. This wont work if you use one. You have to pull the outer rubber ring back then this is pushed on the front of the lens. Its is a relatively tight fit. When not in use I clip it of to a shoulder D-ring.

Really nice work in the link above BTW.

 

[outofofficebrb]

I do not have a dome. This wont work if you use one. You have to pull the outer rubber ring back then this is pushed on the front of the lens. Its is a relatively tight fit. When not in use I clip it of to a shoulder D-ring.

Really nice work in the link above BTW.

Ahhh, thank you for explaining that. That makes sense. I wish there were something I could use with a red filter AND a dome.........but for now, manual white balance plus post processing as needed. Thank you!

 

[Interceptor121]

The Inon UWL-H100 with dome should not vignette with the nauticam RX100II

Are you using an M67 mount and does it vignette on all corners or just two?

 

[funscuba]

Thanks for those infos, I forgot to mention that I do own two Inon Z-240 strobes, but in some videos I see on you tube the colors are so spectacular I really doubt strobes were used and I do think red filter was indeed used instead.
I am a complete rookie with photoshop or lightroom btw, so I go with JPEG.

I don't have the WWL-1so I cant comment on vignetting. On the color issue, within the first few meters you lose reds, yellow, and orange from the spectrum. To balance that out you have a few options, add light in the form of strobes or video lights, or use a lens red filter for blue/clear water or magenta filter for green water. Keep in mind thought that the filter works to balance the colors by reducing greens and blues reaching the sensor thus creating and apparent increase in reds. That only works so deep. Beyond 20meters or so there simply is no red left so filters wont help. Adding light is a more reliable way to achieve better color. Light falloff in water is much quicker than in air so you need to be CLOSE to your subject for strobes or to an even greater extent with video lights to help. When i say close i mean between 1-5 feet depending on the power of your light source. I would also recommend that you shoot in RAW as this gives you a non-destructive way to do your white balance afterwords.

White balancing with your camera underwater is going to be a problem as it will max out after just a few meters depth. I just use auto WB and shoot RAW and correct afterwards.

 

[aviator8]

Thanks for those infos, I forgot to mention that I do own two Inon Z-240 strobes, but in some videos I see on you tube the colors are so spectacular I really doubt strobes were used and I do think red filter was indeed used instead.
I am a complete rookie with photoshop or lightroom btw, so I go with JPEG.

Those are good strobes so for stills you have the lighting power. When you say I see videos with great colors that is going to be video lights not strobes. Video lights are not nearly as powerful as strobes but if you get close enough they will bring the colors out. I would switch to RAW for you stills as any edits you make in Jpeg are destructive edits. The video light CRI (color rendering index) also contributes to accuracy of the colors. In older LED video lights the CRI values were lower resulting in washed out colors. Anything over 90 CRI is really good.