Pretty Mouth
Registered
INDEPENDENT DIVING AT PANGLAO - a mini guide.
Introduction
Most of the diving at Panglao is based around Alona Beach, where most of the dive operators are situated, and is focused mainly on trips to Balicasag Island. This is understandable as the diving there is very good. However, Balicasag is not the only diving that Panglao has to offer - there are many dive sites accessible to anyone with their own equipment, a sense of adventure, and who is willing to put a bit of effort in.
Last November I had the good fortune to spend 3 weeks on Panglao, during which time I made 34 dives. Almost all of these were solo and independent, only relying on the dive operators for tanks and weights. I thought I'd write up an account of my experience there, as an aid to anyone else thinking of doing the same, and to let people know what Panglao has to offer. Hopefully my information is still accurate as a few months have passed since my trip.
Practicalities
To dive independently at Panglao you are probably going to need your own equipment (except of course weights and tanks). It may be possible to rent a full set of gear from one of the dive ops, but I wouldn't bank on it, especially in high season (December to March). Also, you'll need transport to get you to and from the dive sites. I rented a motorbike and took all my gear on that, but also consider taking a tricycle, especially if there's more than one of you diving.
Familiarise yourself with the layout of the island - you can get a tourist map from the info desk at the pier, look on google maps, and also check out Jim Spears' map of Alona;
Alona Beach Area (Hope he doesn't mind me putting this link here)
Below I've included a list of practicalities such as accomodation, food, money etc. Where I've included a reference number you can check the location on Jim's Alona map.
Accommodation
Budget options around Alona are limited but I've listed a few here.
Supermarket - [Alona Map no55] Rooms 350Php single/650Php double.
Basic clean rooms on the roof above the german owned supermarket. Shared bathroom. From Rona's Corner head west then turn right opposite Naty + Henry's Eatery.
The Bottle House - Rooms 350Php. Tawala/Alona Beach/Panglao 6340 Bohol, Call or text Sabine 09183562654 or Kiko 09995699782.
This is the home of German diving instructor Sabine and her Filipino boyfriend Kiko - they have 2 rooms that they rent out on the quiet. The rooms are basic but have mosquito nets, shared bathroom, and there's a simple kitchen too with wood-fired hobs. Very friendly and relaxed, it's quite bohemian here. They are very much into art, and if they throw a party you'll likely see musicians, fire breathers, fire jugglers, and all sorts of entertainment. I regret that I didn't stay here during my time on Panglao. From Alona, head north and at the 'blind bend' follow the road round to the right, past the school, and it's on the right. No sign - look out for a couple of bottles hanging from a post at the side of the road that let you know you've found it. About 10 mins walk from Alona.
Citadel Alona - (Alona Map no25) Home
Fan room 600/700Php. Shared bathrooms, common area, well equipped kitchen. Clean and comfortable, also popular - book in advance.
Calypso - Cottages 750Php including motorbike.
Private bathrooms. I didn't get to view the rooms as it was fully occupied when I enquired. Possibly a good short term option especially when you consider the cost of renting a motorbike. Doesn't have tremendously good reviews on tripadvisor. From Rona's Corner, head west and after a few hundred meters turn off forward-left (look for the Calypso sign), follow the road to the end and turn left again - after a while you'll see another sign pointing left for Calypso.
Hope Homes - Welcome to the Frontpage Rooms 650Php including motorbike.
Good value but the rooms are a little dingy without much natural light. Directions begin the same as for Calypso but when you reach the T-junction, turn right instead and it's on the right side of the road.
Other Options That I Didn't Check - Somewhere roughly halfway along the south circumferential highway is a cafe, the name of which I forget. If you were heading east along this road it would be on the left hand side of the road. A sign there on the road side advertised rooms for as little as 295Php. Also, one of the divemasters from Sierra Madre told me he could get me a room for 500/night including motorbike. Apparently it was 5 minutes or so ride from Alona.
Equipment Rental
SCUBAWORLD (Alona map no43) dive shops has various equipment available for rent, including;
TANKS - 150 Php
WEIGHTS - 100Php per set per day (some days I was only charged 50, no idea why)
You'll need to show your cert-card. It may work out cheaper to buy some weights if you're going to be diving here for a long time. You can ride your motorbike here to collect tanks etc. Explain to the guard controlling the barrier on the access road what you're doing, and tell him you won't be long and you won't park on the road or beach. At busy times equipment may not be readily available, consider booking it in advance.
Money - BPI Bank (No36) has an ATM, and Jedski (No 29) will change currency.
Internet - Jedski(29), also there are a couple of cheap internet cafes just west of the chapel (No53)
Batteries - for your dive torch. Expensive in Alona, much cheaper to get them in Tagbilaran before you arrive. AAA EverReadys are 77Php from Mercury Pharmacy, or Unitop sells cheap ones - the AAA Unitop (20Php/4) or Sun-tad (18Php/4) batteries work fine, but avoid the 10Php/4 super-cheap ones, they're no good. Both shops are on Carlos P. Garcia Ave.
Food
There are several cheap eateries around Alona. Pernia's (No33), Naty + Henry eatery (No70). La Playa (No48) also has a cheap eatery out front by the beach.
Stores - there's Supermarket (No55) and of course Rona's Corner (No28). There's a wet market at Panglao town ('poblacion' - a 20Php motorbike ride one way from Alona), and a fruit and veg stall opposite Citadel Alona(No25).
Transport
Fast boat from Cebu to Tagbilaran - SuperCat - SuperFerry Travel and Leisure - Fares
A tricycle from Tagbilaran Pier to Alona cost me 220Php, but going the other way nobody would do it for less that 250Php - perhaps you have better bargaining skills than I have. There is also a bus that runs between Tagbilaran and Alona that I assume to be very cheap. I don't know exactly where it leaves from - ask at the information desk at the pier.
Motorbikes are available for rent from the guys that hang out at the junction next to Pernia's (No33), also from the parking area next to the barrier on the access road. They're mostly XRM125's. Prices I was given were 300Php for 8 hours, 500 for 24 hours or 1750 for a whole week.
Getting To The Dive Sites By Motorbike
First, to protect the motorbike bike seat from damage while transporting my gear, I unlocked and raised the seat. I wrapped a towell around it, making sure the top was covered but the towell wasn't fouling the locking mechanism, then closed the seat to lock the towell in place.
I stored as much gear as possible in the compartment under the seat - weights, mask, swimming trunks etc.
The rest of my gear I wore on my back. I set up the BCD and reg on the tank, and adjusted the tank band so the tank would sit comfortably on the seat while riding. My wetsuit and fins I put in my kit bag which I attached to the back of the whole set up. With the bag behind the tank, I unclipped a shoulder strap from the BCD, slipped it through a handle of the bag, then clipped it back in place, then did the same with the other strap and handle. Then it was just a matter of donning the whole BCD-reg-tank-kitbag setup, getting on the bike, and riding to wherever it was I wanted to dive
Panglao Island And The Diving There
Panglao is surrounded by very shallow reef that can be a couple of hundred meters wide or more in places. The reef ends at a steep, often vertical wall that sometimes runs very deep, and at the base of this wall you usually encounter a slope of sand, rubble or coral. Typically the wall runs deeper along the north coast than it does along the south coast. The coast is dotted with white sandy beaches and sometimes cliffs too. At the far north east of the island the shallows span the channel to Bohol, and at the extreme south west there is a very large shallow area that makes diving here impractical from shore.
The shallows can be covered with sand, rubble, seagrass, seaweeds and various algaes, with coral fringing the top of the wall. The wall can be covered in coral, fans etc and you'll encounter overhangs, caves, niches etc.
In November the visibility was mostly fairly good, perhaps 20m or more. The temperature at depth was always 29C, and the currents were usually, although not always, negligible.
Because the waters around Panglao are so shallow for such a long distance from shore, diving always involves a swim through the shallows to or from the deeper water. This is made much easier by diving at high tide. You can check the tide charts here;
EasyTide - on-line tidal predictions from the UKHO
It's also a good idea to wear boots as some walking on the reef is inevitable.
Like much of the Philippines, Panglao suffers from overfishing. You'll regularly see traps set on most of the sites I've listed, and fishing by various methods goes on everywhere. The sad result is a serious lack of decent sized fish. In spite of this, the diving here is still rewarding. The sites themselves are dramatic, and there's plenty of smaller fish to see. The macro life here is very good, especially after dark - I particularly recommend diving at night. But the big draw for me is the freedom to dive independently here if you want. No big groups, no guide to follow, I only encountered other divers at Alona Beach and Duljo. You are free to dive where ever you like at any time of the day or night you like
Introduction
Most of the diving at Panglao is based around Alona Beach, where most of the dive operators are situated, and is focused mainly on trips to Balicasag Island. This is understandable as the diving there is very good. However, Balicasag is not the only diving that Panglao has to offer - there are many dive sites accessible to anyone with their own equipment, a sense of adventure, and who is willing to put a bit of effort in.
Last November I had the good fortune to spend 3 weeks on Panglao, during which time I made 34 dives. Almost all of these were solo and independent, only relying on the dive operators for tanks and weights. I thought I'd write up an account of my experience there, as an aid to anyone else thinking of doing the same, and to let people know what Panglao has to offer. Hopefully my information is still accurate as a few months have passed since my trip.
Practicalities
To dive independently at Panglao you are probably going to need your own equipment (except of course weights and tanks). It may be possible to rent a full set of gear from one of the dive ops, but I wouldn't bank on it, especially in high season (December to March). Also, you'll need transport to get you to and from the dive sites. I rented a motorbike and took all my gear on that, but also consider taking a tricycle, especially if there's more than one of you diving.
Familiarise yourself with the layout of the island - you can get a tourist map from the info desk at the pier, look on google maps, and also check out Jim Spears' map of Alona;
Alona Beach Area (Hope he doesn't mind me putting this link here)
Below I've included a list of practicalities such as accomodation, food, money etc. Where I've included a reference number you can check the location on Jim's Alona map.
Accommodation
Budget options around Alona are limited but I've listed a few here.
Supermarket - [Alona Map no55] Rooms 350Php single/650Php double.
Basic clean rooms on the roof above the german owned supermarket. Shared bathroom. From Rona's Corner head west then turn right opposite Naty + Henry's Eatery.
The Bottle House - Rooms 350Php. Tawala/Alona Beach/Panglao 6340 Bohol, Call or text Sabine 09183562654 or Kiko 09995699782.
This is the home of German diving instructor Sabine and her Filipino boyfriend Kiko - they have 2 rooms that they rent out on the quiet. The rooms are basic but have mosquito nets, shared bathroom, and there's a simple kitchen too with wood-fired hobs. Very friendly and relaxed, it's quite bohemian here. They are very much into art, and if they throw a party you'll likely see musicians, fire breathers, fire jugglers, and all sorts of entertainment. I regret that I didn't stay here during my time on Panglao. From Alona, head north and at the 'blind bend' follow the road round to the right, past the school, and it's on the right. No sign - look out for a couple of bottles hanging from a post at the side of the road that let you know you've found it. About 10 mins walk from Alona.
Citadel Alona - (Alona Map no25) Home
Fan room 600/700Php. Shared bathrooms, common area, well equipped kitchen. Clean and comfortable, also popular - book in advance.
Calypso - Cottages 750Php including motorbike.
Private bathrooms. I didn't get to view the rooms as it was fully occupied when I enquired. Possibly a good short term option especially when you consider the cost of renting a motorbike. Doesn't have tremendously good reviews on tripadvisor. From Rona's Corner, head west and after a few hundred meters turn off forward-left (look for the Calypso sign), follow the road to the end and turn left again - after a while you'll see another sign pointing left for Calypso.
Hope Homes - Welcome to the Frontpage Rooms 650Php including motorbike.
Good value but the rooms are a little dingy without much natural light. Directions begin the same as for Calypso but when you reach the T-junction, turn right instead and it's on the right side of the road.
Other Options That I Didn't Check - Somewhere roughly halfway along the south circumferential highway is a cafe, the name of which I forget. If you were heading east along this road it would be on the left hand side of the road. A sign there on the road side advertised rooms for as little as 295Php. Also, one of the divemasters from Sierra Madre told me he could get me a room for 500/night including motorbike. Apparently it was 5 minutes or so ride from Alona.
Equipment Rental
SCUBAWORLD (Alona map no43) dive shops has various equipment available for rent, including;
TANKS - 150 Php
WEIGHTS - 100Php per set per day (some days I was only charged 50, no idea why)
You'll need to show your cert-card. It may work out cheaper to buy some weights if you're going to be diving here for a long time. You can ride your motorbike here to collect tanks etc. Explain to the guard controlling the barrier on the access road what you're doing, and tell him you won't be long and you won't park on the road or beach. At busy times equipment may not be readily available, consider booking it in advance.
Money - BPI Bank (No36) has an ATM, and Jedski (No 29) will change currency.
Internet - Jedski(29), also there are a couple of cheap internet cafes just west of the chapel (No53)
Batteries - for your dive torch. Expensive in Alona, much cheaper to get them in Tagbilaran before you arrive. AAA EverReadys are 77Php from Mercury Pharmacy, or Unitop sells cheap ones - the AAA Unitop (20Php/4) or Sun-tad (18Php/4) batteries work fine, but avoid the 10Php/4 super-cheap ones, they're no good. Both shops are on Carlos P. Garcia Ave.
Food
There are several cheap eateries around Alona. Pernia's (No33), Naty + Henry eatery (No70). La Playa (No48) also has a cheap eatery out front by the beach.
Stores - there's Supermarket (No55) and of course Rona's Corner (No28). There's a wet market at Panglao town ('poblacion' - a 20Php motorbike ride one way from Alona), and a fruit and veg stall opposite Citadel Alona(No25).
Transport
Fast boat from Cebu to Tagbilaran - SuperCat - SuperFerry Travel and Leisure - Fares
A tricycle from Tagbilaran Pier to Alona cost me 220Php, but going the other way nobody would do it for less that 250Php - perhaps you have better bargaining skills than I have. There is also a bus that runs between Tagbilaran and Alona that I assume to be very cheap. I don't know exactly where it leaves from - ask at the information desk at the pier.
Motorbikes are available for rent from the guys that hang out at the junction next to Pernia's (No33), also from the parking area next to the barrier on the access road. They're mostly XRM125's. Prices I was given were 300Php for 8 hours, 500 for 24 hours or 1750 for a whole week.
Getting To The Dive Sites By Motorbike
First, to protect the motorbike bike seat from damage while transporting my gear, I unlocked and raised the seat. I wrapped a towell around it, making sure the top was covered but the towell wasn't fouling the locking mechanism, then closed the seat to lock the towell in place.
I stored as much gear as possible in the compartment under the seat - weights, mask, swimming trunks etc.
The rest of my gear I wore on my back. I set up the BCD and reg on the tank, and adjusted the tank band so the tank would sit comfortably on the seat while riding. My wetsuit and fins I put in my kit bag which I attached to the back of the whole set up. With the bag behind the tank, I unclipped a shoulder strap from the BCD, slipped it through a handle of the bag, then clipped it back in place, then did the same with the other strap and handle. Then it was just a matter of donning the whole BCD-reg-tank-kitbag setup, getting on the bike, and riding to wherever it was I wanted to dive
Panglao Island And The Diving There
Panglao is surrounded by very shallow reef that can be a couple of hundred meters wide or more in places. The reef ends at a steep, often vertical wall that sometimes runs very deep, and at the base of this wall you usually encounter a slope of sand, rubble or coral. Typically the wall runs deeper along the north coast than it does along the south coast. The coast is dotted with white sandy beaches and sometimes cliffs too. At the far north east of the island the shallows span the channel to Bohol, and at the extreme south west there is a very large shallow area that makes diving here impractical from shore.
The shallows can be covered with sand, rubble, seagrass, seaweeds and various algaes, with coral fringing the top of the wall. The wall can be covered in coral, fans etc and you'll encounter overhangs, caves, niches etc.
In November the visibility was mostly fairly good, perhaps 20m or more. The temperature at depth was always 29C, and the currents were usually, although not always, negligible.
Because the waters around Panglao are so shallow for such a long distance from shore, diving always involves a swim through the shallows to or from the deeper water. This is made much easier by diving at high tide. You can check the tide charts here;
EasyTide - on-line tidal predictions from the UKHO
It's also a good idea to wear boots as some walking on the reef is inevitable.
Like much of the Philippines, Panglao suffers from overfishing. You'll regularly see traps set on most of the sites I've listed, and fishing by various methods goes on everywhere. The sad result is a serious lack of decent sized fish. In spite of this, the diving here is still rewarding. The sites themselves are dramatic, and there's plenty of smaller fish to see. The macro life here is very good, especially after dark - I particularly recommend diving at night. But the big draw for me is the freedom to dive independently here if you want. No big groups, no guide to follow, I only encountered other divers at Alona Beach and Duljo. You are free to dive where ever you like at any time of the day or night you like
