I purchased from someone an Ikelite housing with Canon A640,which includes a Ikelite EV Controller. I own a Nikonos SB 105,which I would like to use with this versus buying a Ikelite strobe. Any suggestions,adaptors etc would be appreciated.
Ikelite EV controller with Nikonos SB105
- Thread starter karstdvr
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Need the Nikonus cord for the EV. Ike cord with Nikonus connection on one end.
karstdvr
The Ikelite EV Controller will only connect and work with Ikelite DS Substrobes.
The connector is their bulkhead type and electronics in DS Substrobes recognize an EV Controller is attached when the Ikelite Substrobe head is set to "TTL".
It allows you to adjust MANUAL flash output from the 10 step EV Controller.
There might be some old style slaves out there to connect to the Nikonos SB105 / 103 bulkheads. But I don't believe they do TTL.
Good luck....
dhaas
The Ikelite EV Controller will only connect and work with Ikelite DS Substrobes.
The connector is their bulkhead type and electronics in DS Substrobes recognize an EV Controller is attached when the Ikelite Substrobe head is set to "TTL".
It allows you to adjust MANUAL flash output from the 10 step EV Controller.
There might be some old style slaves out there to connect to the Nikonos SB105 / 103 bulkheads. But I don't believe they do TTL.
Good luck....
dhaas
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The Ikelite EV Controller is powered by an Ikelite DS strobe to which it is attached. The SB105 won't power it. Thus it only works with Ikelite DS strobes.
This strobe is not compatible with the flash timing of this Canon A620 camera. The interval between the preflash and main flash on the A620 is 97ms, while the Nikonos SB105 needs 130ms or greater to recharge. It would fire on the preflash but not be ready for the main flash. This is a perfectly good flash for film cameras which don't pre-flash, but not most digitals.
It appears the best course would be to sell the SB105 and get an Ikelite DS strobe if you want to use the EV Manual Controller. Or sell the Controller too, and get a more modern strobe that can follow your camera's flash, like a Sea&Sea YS-01 or Inon S2000.
This strobe is not compatible with the flash timing of this Canon A620 camera. The interval between the preflash and main flash on the A620 is 97ms, while the Nikonos SB105 needs 130ms or greater to recharge. It would fire on the preflash but not be ready for the main flash. This is a perfectly good flash for film cameras which don't pre-flash, but not most digitals.
It appears the best course would be to sell the SB105 and get an Ikelite DS strobe if you want to use the EV Manual Controller. Or sell the Controller too, and get a more modern strobe that can follow your camera's flash, like a Sea&Sea YS-01 or Inon S2000.
Last edited:
bajaki
New
Until last week I was using a Nikonos sb105 with my Oly 5060 (now got a G12). But I still use it the same way.
I have just read the 640 manual and I can see no reason that you cannot use your sb105 the same way.
According to the manual you have the option to set the camera to M (manual) on the top dial.
Then go to the Flash settings and select "ON" or "slow sync".
Set the sb105 to slave. - and try 1/16 power for a starting point.
I am assuming you have the strobe mounted on an arm system. - position the strobe so that it will "see" the cameras flash. - later you can experiment to find out to what extent you can move the strobe - I found it to be surprisingly sensitive.
Fire away. - Now just adjust the shutter speed and / or the apperture to get correct exposure.
See my flickr link below for my results. Every shot taken, other than ambient light shots, have been done this way.
Looking forward to seeing your results
I have just read the 640 manual and I can see no reason that you cannot use your sb105 the same way.
According to the manual you have the option to set the camera to M (manual) on the top dial.
Then go to the Flash settings and select "ON" or "slow sync".
Set the sb105 to slave. - and try 1/16 power for a starting point.
I am assuming you have the strobe mounted on an arm system. - position the strobe so that it will "see" the cameras flash. - later you can experiment to find out to what extent you can move the strobe - I found it to be surprisingly sensitive.
Fire away. - Now just adjust the shutter speed and / or the apperture to get correct exposure.
See my flickr link below for my results. Every shot taken, other than ambient light shots, have been done this way.
Looking forward to seeing your results
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