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To my knowledge, Parkway never manufactured any equipment, besides wetsuits. Their regulators came from a few different manufacturers. Before they went bankrupt, Oceanic produced for them, like the Atlas regulator.

This one was almost certainly made from Healthways. The ring that holds the cover in place is split in two with two opposing screws. Additionally the slots for the screws are fairly "square". I do not know of another manufacturer that did it this way. ScubaPro, essentially the Healthway successor if you will, adopted a similar design, but with less "square" slots.

Compare this to the Healthways Airflo for example:

Healthways - Airflo.png


I don't think this is a Nemrod first stage, the handles of their yoke screws looked different:

Nemrod - Snark II (Uncertain).png


This rounded yoke screw reminds me of Healthways as well:
Healthways - Scubair (Uncertain).png


Which one it is exactly I do not know unfortunately.
 
Less buoyant doesn't sound so bad to me. The less weight I have to carry in my pockets the better!

3AA standard seems to be steel correct?

And what are your thoughts on the condition of that yellow bad boy I have? Seen any others like it with that much exterior corrosion?!

Thanks,
As @rhwestfall said, steels last forever if you take halfway decent care of them... I use a couple ICC tanks, and even a navy surplus 3A 38 from 1944.
I don't see anything in the pictures of either of yours that would make me hesitant to get them tested... But I would take the boots off them and make sure there's no rust pitting hidden underneath.
Also, as @herman said, that first stage would be a prime candidate to start learning serving on... Very very few dive shops will touch vintage regs. Some out of greed ("that stuff is ancient and untrustworthy. Here, buy this new $1000 reg set!'), and some out of liability fears (also arguably foolish). But the basic tech hasn't changed since the 60s.
The second stage is probably a basic downstream... Simple and bullet proof. But parts may be harder to source (depending on diaphragm size, seat size, and exhaust T). I'd probably also use it to learn in your shoes. If you do want to go down the DIY rabbit hole, let me know... I have regs sitting in my "I'll get to it" pile that I can probably hook you up with.

Respectfully,

James
 
The logo appears on the purge button of a couple Nemrod second stages.
Interesting 🤔 I am trying my very best to find any images but so far I've come up with nothing. I'll keep looking into nemrod though. Thanks!
 
Interesting 🤔 I am trying my very best to find any images but so far I've come up with nothing. I'll keep looking into nemrod though. Thanks!
I just read that Seamless Rubber Co, Newhaven was producing Nemrod regs in the US in license from 1959/60 on ' by Seamless'.
Found pics of the reg , but no name here:
 
Interesting 🤔 I am trying my very best to find any images but so far I've come up with nothing. I'll keep looking into nemrod though. Thanks!
In addition to the HDE photos linked by axxel57 above you can see more at lola.cz.

From a post on forobuceo. "The logo of the company that marketed Nemrod in the USA appears on the purge button (Seamless, later Seamco, and later still US Nemrod)."

I have owned one or two of these second stages. Never used them as the diaphragm was very stiff and I did not have a replacement of the correct size, also the exhaust valve is much smaller than modern size.

nemrod-1973.jpg
 
Hi ScubaBoard 👋

I purchased two old tanks along with a first & second stage regulator. After some research I've been able to determine that they are both steel tanks with operating pressure of 2250psi. Although, I can't find manufacturer's info on the second tank nor the reg. Any ideas?

1st tank. Steel 2250PSI tank made by Norris(?). I believe it was last hydro tested in 1970. What does FL mean and is there any indicator as to the size of the tank?
View attachment 819712View attachment 819713


2nd Tank. Steel 2250PSI that looks like it was hydro tested sometime in the 60s. Not in great condition and I don't know the manufacturer. Looks like it was made under the ICC standard (which I know nothing about). Any info on this guy would be great!
View attachment 819714View attachment 819715
Those are great tanks but VERY hard to find places that will plus stamp them again (lots of ignorance as well as lack of original documentation - which some hydro places want to be specific on their docs). I have over a dozen pst/norris - my one WK is actually a bottle bottom 2400 but similar ilk. Be careful working with hydro and LDS's that they understand the older tanks and don't condemn them out of ignorance. I had one X'd out because it had a very thin liner (no rust, just liner). Don't let them trash a perfectly good cylinder.
 
@Kupu @axxel57

I'm so glad I made this post. I wasn't able to find anything even close on my own. As some others have suggested I don't think I'll be using this piece but I am definitely going to be learning maintenance with it. Any documentation at all helps !
 
Those are great tanks but VERY hard to find places that will plus stamp them again (lots of ignorance as well as lack of original documentation - which some hydro places want to be specific on their docs). I have over a dozen pst/norris - my one WK is actually a bottle bottom 2400 but similar ilk. Be careful working with hydro and LDS's that they understand the older tanks and don't condemn them out of ignorance. I had one X'd out because it had a very thin liner (no rust, just liner). Don't let them trash a perfectly good cylinder.
And @ScubaBunga I will definitely heed your advice here. The one cylinder looks dare I say brand new inside and out.. so I'm really hopeful about that one.

As for the walter kiddie it looks like it has seen better days and also has that bottle shaped bottom. I haven't been able to open it yet and check inside.

Regardless.. I was very lucky to purchase both those + the reg for only $40. So even if they both don't work out (doubtful) I would Have a great learning opportunity
1000006084.jpg
 
I didn't notice (or even think about it) - the WK has a threaded - teflon tape valve over a newer 3/4"-14 NPT O-ring valve! My WK has a 1/2 STRAIGHT thread w/ o-ring. From the looks, I'm assuming it has the tapered 1/2 threaded valve. A real pain if you do need to clean the inside. The Norris is pretty standard if it has the oring valve (i.e. new valves work fine).

If you decide not to keep either - feel free to drop them off where I can pick them up. :) I'd really like to find a match to my other bottle bottom WK as they would make good doubles (my opinion only).
 

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