I Love's me some Komodo- Trip Report

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dirtfarmer

Contributor
Messages
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Location
Northern California
# of dives
500 - 999
I Love's me some Komodo.
My previous trips there were via Liveaboard and were epic, so when I got the opportunity in January to do some more diving in Komodo I had high expectations of more great diving, I was not disappointed. Komodo served up some great dives on sites I had done before, and great dives on many new sites that I hadn't had the pleasure of diving before.
I chose to go land based to keep my budget down, and had seen that Scuba Junkies had opened a new resort close to the central area of the the park, so I could dive the central area which I hadn't done before. One other benefit to the central location is the access to dive the southern sites, which are some of my favorite sites. Weather and visibility conditions even co-operated to give me a day diving up north also.
I had 11 days of diving and I enjoyed them all. The diving was fantastic and the central area has some really good dive sites. Yes there were Manta's to be seen, and on one of my favorite dives we had just dropped in and started to look for the Rhinopia we knew was hiding in the area, and a Manta decided to hang out circling overhead. I have some cool video footage of the Rhinopia with the Manta Ray cruising by in the background.
One of the things I love about Komodo is the diversity of sites and sea life to be found there. It has everything from beautiful reefs with large schools of fish of all sizes, to looking for strange and wonderful macro critters, to adrenaline fueled drifts. We dove mostly in the central region which were new sites to me. I also chose Scuba Junkies as they can dive the southern sites which I was lobbying heavily for as I think they are some of the best in Komodo. My wishes were granted with first a trip to the Padar area, which produced some great dives. First we dove Pillarstein, which has great topography of boulders, cracks, crevasses, and walls. It has quite a bit of surge on parts of it but that just made for a some fun surge riding. The walls there sport a profuse amount of life and plenty of subjects to photograph, two male frogfish hanging out with a female was a highlight. Then we dove 3 Sisters which is a fantastic site of 3 submerged pinnacles that are covered in colorful sea life with hoards of fish swimming all around them. It's one of my favorite Komodo sites now and 3 Sisters does remind me a bit of the diving in the Misool area of Raja Ampat.
The next day we left the resort early ( the boat usually departs at 7:30am) as we were heading to one of my all time fave area's of Komodo, Horseshoe Bay. Cannibal Rock here we come! It was simply put, fantastic. But then my world view was shattered as for the second dive we did Eagle Point and now it in my opinion tops Cannibal Rock. Why? Not an empty space to be found there; hard coral, soft coral, sponges, hydroids, feather stars, loads of fish, lots of nudibranches, you name it it's got it. We then cruised north for the third dive of the day on 3 Sisters which I wasn't complaining about not in the very least. It was long day out on the sea but well worth it.
Currently Scuba Junkies is building another dive boat that will be equipped to make overnight trips so they can dive the South more and burn less fuel getting there.( I can hardly wait to go back) When I departed they were repainting and repairing their present dive boat to keep it in tip top shape. Rohan and Carys are partners in this SJ location, and are constantly improving the new resort and it showed just in the time I was there. The resort is located by Warlocka, about 1.5 hours from Labuan Bajo. It's newly constructed, planned well and has room to grow. They have a range of accommodation choices ranging from traditional open bales to dorm rooms to private rooms. The clientele was mostly of the backpacker persuasion. ie young travelers.
I dwarfed most of the other divers in experience and was releaved and rewarded to dive mostly with my own guide or just one other experienced diver. My guide Solomon was an excellent macro spotter and has been guiding Komodo for many years and I was super lucky to have him to myself for most of the time. His attention to safety I also appreciated as I'm a photographer and some guides tend to leave me behind with me looking up from shooting photos to find no one around. Funny thing, it turns out my guide later this trip in Lembeh was Soloman's nephew; small world it is.
The food is good, breakfast is simple and served on the boat, consisting of fruit, pancakes, omelets, and homemade bread with jam or peanut butter/chocolate spread. Lunch is boxed and again served on the boat. Dinner is a wide variety of Indonesian fare but when it was Italian night I was overjoyed to have some homemade pasta. I chose to stay in my own private room, which was clean and comfortable. It did not have a/c so before going to bed I would cool off with a cool shower.
The resort/boat is well run and organized, and Rohan and Carys and the rest of the staff aim to please and provided me with a enjoyable stay.

As I have said this wasn't my first time diving Komodo and it won't be the last. I had a fantastic time, with good company and great diving. Komodo proved itself to me once again to be worthy of it's reputation for great diving. I found myself loving the area even more and my enchantment of Indonesia grows. Scuba Junkies motto is " fuel your addiction " and my time in Komodo certainly was that, as I often say that the diving in Indonesia is addicting.

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Great to hear you had such a good time. Since you're done Komodo both via live-aboard and now land-based resort means, what do you see as the main trade-offs? About how much savings in total trip cost did you keep, about how many dives for that time frame would you have done by each means, and did you do any land-excursions or other activities that gave the land route significant added value?

I ask because these threads help inform people researching trip options. I may never make it out of the Caribbean/U.S. region, but if I'm blessed to make one Indonesian trip someday (e.g.: like if I get to retire in a few years?), Komodo is probably the place I'd hit.

After all, I was a bit of a reptile enthusiast when I was a kid. Wild Komodo dragons in their natural habitat? Gotta love that...

Richard.
 
drrich, trade offs? the liveaboard I did twice left from Bali so there were dives out of the park on the way and way back, but they are great dives. On the liveaboard we did sites in the north and south but not in the central area. They were all great sites but the central area has some great sites also. I wouldn't call them trade offs just a bit different. The liveaboard was a 7N 4 dives a day/ 20 dives itinerary and in 2014 it cost about $2,200. Land based I dove 11 days 3 dives a day for less than $1,600.
Both offer land excursions to see the dragons at Scuba Junkies I chose not to go as I'd been there done that.

Scuba Junkies is currently offering opening prices, and I don't know for how long, but even when they go up they will still be a good value in my opinion. I Love the Bali-Komodo-Bali itinerary and I love liveaboard diving, but the being land based was more affordable and I had just splashed out for an epic double liveaboard trip in the Ambon/Raja Ampat area in November and I was also heading to Lembeh for another 11 days after Komodo, so I was quite pleased to have the affordable land based option accessing the entire park.
I wouldn't hesitate to go back and even though I haven't started to plan for my next trip in November Komodo will weigh in my choices.
 
Interesting alternative without having to go on a liveaboard, and cheaper than the 2 other expensive resorts which are located on the islands.
How would you rate it for a non diving partner? is the beach good for bathing/chilling or pebbles and rocks?
 
By the sound of it you are basically on the boats the entire day, is that correct?
So Luko not sure how your NDP (non-diving partner) likes being left on their lonesome all day long? I know I wouldn't be able to get away with that. :wink:
 
Luko, the beach is coarse sand, the water shallow, at the water line the beach turns to mud, and since the water is shallow it goes out quite a bit at low tide. It is a nice house reef however, and one of the DMT's even spotted a blue ring octopus one morning shuttling tanks. Not much to do during the day at the resort except read and relax. And when I was departing during part of the day the generator was off.

Al, Yes out on the boat all day on trips to central sites we left at 7:30 and were back at 4:30 on avrg. Long days on the boat but the boat was comfy with pads and beanbags and shade to nap in. I couldn't leave get away leaving my wife all day either so when she comes on holiday with me I have to adjust my parameters. I'm still searching for the perfect spot with a nice beach, restaurants, enough room for a stroll around the island, and great diving with short boat trips. Let me know if you've found it!

And this will also relate to everyone and one's with non-diving partners ( I have one, but she didn't accompany me on this trip), internet service is piss poor at the resort, I could get an email out early morning before everyone was up. Out on the boat some locations in central/north you can get 3g signal for your phone, get some mails out and catch up with the world. At the resort text did work, unfortunately my wife and texting on her phone didn't go spectacularly.
 
I'm still searching for the perfect spot with a nice beach, restaurants, enough room for a stroll around the island, and great diving with short boat trips. Let me know if you've found it!
I 'm also looking for that Holy Grail.

That 's why we're always going back to Bali but so far Panglao (on a lower level Sipalay) in the Phils, Lembongan (Ok that's also nearby Bali), Alor (only at Eco divers), Murex Bangka or Gangga island, and though in the "no beach but great jetty" category like in Raja ampat resorts or Borneo Divers Mabul did not disappoint (especially when day tripping to Sipadan)

In the "that's OK to leave you diving the full day because the beach is really nice and there's enough to do around", you can try Kata beach on Phuket or Koh Lipe. Panglao also allows me day trips to Balicasag.

The real "guilt trips" are named Ambon, Anilao and Lembeh.
 
Luko, at Alor (Eco Divers) do they do one dive trips or double tank full morning trips?
Panglao... never even considered it... will check it out.
It depends, you can have both with Alor Eco divers, every other day they will provide one morning boat dive 8:30 AM + one optional house reef dive around 11AM then an afternoon boat dive at 2 PM, another daily dive schedule will be two morning dives from 8 to 12AM and a house reef dive in the afternoon or a night dive.
In any case you spend a lot of time at the resort or on the beach, it's not Lembeh..

Panglao, probably not the best dives in the world but I like the combination of macro outside the reef wall, 10mn away from the resorts and sometimes spectacular wide angle in Balcasag. Panglao is lively with restaurants, has a very long beach caters from budget to luxury hotels (Amorita maybe your fit); Very nivce for 5-7 days.
 
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