How to stop the fog up

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mattloaf

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I’ve been playing around with a few different ways to stop my housing from fogging up. I’m shooting a Canon G1 in an Ikelite housing and my wife uses a Canon A70 in a Canon housing. The fogging occurs when the digital camera heats up the humid air inside the housing. By far the part of the camera that generates the most heat is the screen. Here’s a few tricks to help fight the fog.

1. Use desiccators. My wife works for a biotech company and has access to some professional grade desiccators (which can be dried out in a oven and reused) but any silica gel based desiccator will do. If you can’t find anywhere to buy them, this is what I did. Go to your local shoe store (I went to the macy’s men’s shoe department) and ask them for some. Every pair of dress shoes they get have a desiccator in the box. After explaining to the woman working there that a desiccator is just those anti moisture packets, she was able to score me almost 100 of them just off the floor and near the trash. The nice thing about these desiccators is that they are thin and will even fit in the very space limited Canon housings.

2. Make your own desiccators. I did this by buying that paint strainer material from the hardware store (white mesh material). I then bought some of that new type of crystal kitty litter, its just silica gel crystals like the other kinds of desiccators. I crushed it up into small pieces (but not powder), sowed it up into the paint strainer material using nylon thread. Those that I have made have worked great so far. Be careful not to use the anti humidity Calcium Chloride they sell in hardware stores. I found it to be corrosive when dissolved.

3. Turn your screen off when there is nothing to shoot. On my Canon G1 and A70 you can hit the display button to turn off the screen. Turning your screen off is a pain, but it will generate much less heat then leaving it on full time. Also it will save you some battery time. The other option is turning your camera off when not shooting on the dive. But the start up time from powering on takes much longer then just turning on the display. And lord knows that a few seconds matter when that once in a lifetime shot swims by.

4. Make sure you seal the housing in a dry place. This is kinda obvious, but try not to get any extra moisture in your housing. I found the engine room on live-a-board is ideal. The air is usually pretty dry and you wont have drastic temperature increase like you will coming from an air-conditioned room.

5. This is mainly for the tropics, but be careful about taking your camera from a cold air-conditioned room outside. You will notice the lens will fog right up due to the temperature change. Try to keep it in a sealed container and store it somewhere that’s close to the ambient temperature outside if possible.

If anyone has anything they want to add, feel free.
 
Feminine hygiene products - Haven't tried this myself, but some UW photogs of the fairer sex have claimed success using strips of feminine pads when dessicants couldn't be found.

Chris
 
One I didn't notice is keep your camera and housing in a rinse bucket prior to the dive, it helps with the whole cooling of the housing to a closer temp. to what you're diving in.

AD
 
This won't help with lens fog-up, but there's this awesome paste anti-fog called Cat Crap which works well for the inside of the glass on the casing. Key for the cam is to keep it as cold as possible before you start diving.. which is easy in the NE in winter :wink:
 
I have been using the re-chargeable desiccant for over a year now and have never had my housing fog up. I don't load my camera in an A/C environment as I don't use my condo A/C. I'm not going to turn it on at 7AM to load my camera in the housing. I didn't load my camera in A/C while in Cozumel in May-June either and it didn't fog up. I attribute the success to the desiccant but more so to keeping the housing in a soft insulated beverage cooler. I obtain my re-chargeable desiccant from http://www.preservesmart.com
I think a toaster oven on 200 degrees or less works better than a microwave to re-charge it.

In the event one of the small control plungers seeps a little desiccant will not handle it. It cannot absorb the liquid. Ultra Slim Panty liners will. Peel the adhesive off and fold the liner so the adhesive sticks to itself. Trim it with a pair of scissors so it fits in the area under the camera (Oly housings). I place the loose desiccant in a cut off piece of nylon stocking and close it with a twist tie. I place that desiccant in the void between the camera lens and the hand grip as shown here.

Both desiccant and the panty liner are needed.
Desiccant will handle the condensation while the panty liner will not.
The panty liner will handle the liquid while the desiccant will not.
 
As a male... I never thought I would have to go buy panty liner's... LOL!

Good info though...
 
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Me neither, but a man has to do what a man has to do.
 
I wear a panty liner in my shorts just in case I run into a Tiger Shark... :)
 
Gilligan:
I obtain my re-chargeable desiccant from http://www.preservesmart.com
I think a toaster oven on 200 degrees or less works better than a microwave to re-charge it.

Great info, G!

Do you get the dessicant bags from them as well?
 
cheryl..I think you can gt bags from them but a nylon works well. I use the packets, too but the little bags like Gilligan make are great. I made a bunch of them at one time from a pair of panty hose. Using a tablespoonfull of the dessicant, I tied them all at once then cut them apart. I cut the foot off and tied the first tight knot. From there it's gel-knot-knot-gel-knot-knot-gel-knot-knot-gel-knot-knot-gel-knot, etc. Then I cut between the knot-knots. Understand?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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