How to compensate weight for new pony?

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Xarifa

Contributor
Messages
125
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2
Location
Seattle Area
# of dives
500 - 999
I searched the board for this, but was unable to find an answer.
:1book:
Santa brought me a new 13 cf pony for Christmas (go Santa!). Is there a general rule of thumb for how to compensate in my weighting?

I currently wear 25 lbs with my dry suit and 8 lbs in warm water with a skin.

Any ideas?
 
The 13 ft pony is my choice. Not so large that you notice it, enough gas to get me out of a bind. I utilize a 13 ft on all deep dives. I dive warm & wet, Florida Keys.
Usually a 3mm with a Scubapro Nighthawk back BC. I use a wt belt, just my preference. Then simply slide a 2 lb wt into the integreated pouch opposite the pony. It is not unusual for me to make one boat dive with the pony and then remove it for the 2nd shallower dive. So this wt change process is easy. I tried multiple combinations of wts and location, but this one works for me.
Smart to us a pony.
 
Good advice--I didn't consider the need to balance on the other side, thanks.
As an aside, I had to laugh at a PM from someone whose advice was to "...balance it with a small donkey on the other side!" I guess he was partially right!
 
Likewise I add two pounds to the opposite side of the weight belt. I wear the pony almost all the time so no adjustments are necessary. On the few times I haven't, the extra weight helped me stay stable while filming.

Dr. Bill
 
Xarifa:
I searched the board for this, but was unable to find an answer.
:1book:
Santa brought me a new 13 cf pony for Christmas (go Santa!). Is there a general rule of thumb for how to compensate in my weighting?

I currently wear 25 lbs with my dry suit and 8 lbs in warm water with a skin.

Any ideas?

I also use 2 lbs more in the integrated pouch on the opposite side. No need to add extra weight, just re-distribute it to make a 2 lb differential - for instance if you use 8 lbs then use 3 on the side the pony is on and 5 in the other. You may also be able to take a pound or 2 off your total but do it evenly!
 
An aluminum 13 has a SWB (Salt Water Bouyancy) of -1.7 full and -.7 empty. That doesn't include the first and second stage and any mounting brackets, though. I agree with the idea of counter balancing, the roll effect is noticable otherwise. Since I use pocketed rear weights and a tank mounted pony I just knock 3 lbs off on the pony side.
 
I used a 13 cuft pony for a while and found that I needed only 1 pound of lead to off set the added weight of the bottle. Instead of adding the weight to the BC, it was weight intergrated, I found one of those individual mesh weight pockets at a dive shop. These pouches are the kind that have no weight in them they are only a pouch for holding the weight on the belt. It has a velcro flap on the top so weight can be added and removed quickly. I put the pouch on the tank strap that secures the tank to the BC. This way I was able to add the weight when I carried the tank on the deep dives and remove the weight when I left the tank on the boat for the shallow reef dives without having to thread and un-thread a weight from a belt.

Just my 2 cents.
 
I agree it makes sense to add the counter weight with a pouch attached to the tank strap securing the pony (depending on the mouting system you use) or to one of the the BC's cam bands.

Most small ponies will be close to neutral to slightly negative when empty with a regulator attached, so while a redistribution of weight is in order a reduction in total weight is not always adviseable.

In fact while I am generally opposed to overweighting of any sort on general principle, adding a 1 pound couterweight to your total weight rather than moving it from somewhere else has soem merit as if you are actually using the pony, your main tank is most likely empty and the extra pound compensates for the weight of the 500 psi reserve that is no longer there. Plus there is the added benefit of not having to adjust the weight belt or weight pockets on dives where you do not take your pony.
 
DA Aquamaster:
In fact while I am generally opposed to overweighting of any sort on general principle, adding a 1 pound couterweight to your total weight rather than moving it from somewhere else has soem merit as if you are actually using the pony, your main tank is most likely empty and the extra pound compensates for the weight of the 500 psi reserve that is no longer there. Plus there is the added benefit of not having to adjust the weight belt or weight pockets on dives where you do not take your pony.
This is something I was thinking about yesterday during a long surface swim.
I also don't add weight to compensate for my 13cf pony, but deduct 2 pounds from one weight pocket (slung pony). Otherwise, I've added the additional 2#s of my pony, and then another 2#s of compensation weight, or, 4#s too heavy. So I just remove 2#s.
But here's the problem. If I ever need the pony it will be due to either equipment malfunction or OOA. Let's say, OOA (God forbid). Assuming that I am weighted correct, with my main tank at 500psi, I am neutral at 15' with an empty BC & DS. But in an OOA, I am slightly more buoyant due to the empty tank. Then, as I start to breath off my pony and drain it of air, I also drain it of the weight of the air, and am soon buoyant. In this situation, I am most likely stressed and possibly having other issues, and the last thing I want to do is have to fight to stay down or pick up a rock (kidding about the rock).
Soooo, is it better to add the 2#s when you add the pony so you can be neutral with both tanks (near) empty? I donno, just a thought. Obviously not an issue if you go to the pony due to equipment malfunction.
Or, am I thinking too much and the real answer is shorter surface swims? ;)
 
Thanks for all the input. I'm going to snoop around for some stats on which of the two is most likely--OOA or 1st stage malfunction (just for kicks). Don't laugh--I'll admit to picking up a rock or two, late in those initial dives when I was getting used to my drysuit.
 

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