How open do you keep your iso valve?

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Hey Jonathan

How's it going up north? I heard that IANTD is teaching having the isolator on just a couple turns these days. Back when I took IANTD courses, I was taught on independent doubles. I shudder when I think about it and see any photos of myself underwater from that time frame.

CrazyC
 
Sydney_Diver once bubbled...

I have the manuals in front of me now
PADI TecRec is all valves open all the way. Reasoning for this is if you have to shut them down they will only go one-way, that is you are not going to get confused and turn them on rather than off, wasting time during the shutdown.

Glad to see PADI got ONE thing right... LOL!!

Sorry but that was just sitting there on a tee. :wink:
 
Sydney_Diver once bubbled...


Yep all good in recreational diving, but at 180Ft narced off your brain, with a HP Oring blowing out behind your head and spewing your air all over the shop, I like to know that when I turn the valve it is going to be shutdown.

180 feet narced off your brain? You've got more problems than just a valve issue here. Deep air diving, I presume?
 
so well I've decided to stay a bit but I think my last course here will be when I hand in my exam for tecnical diver next week.

Then I start paying for the courses for the other half if I want her to go on holiday with me....

To be honest I don't know if that is the IANTD way, just that the instructor has never contradicted me. That's the way I was taught by a TDI instructor in the UK.

Jonathan
 
detroit diver once bubbled...


180 feet narced off your brain? You've got more problems than just a valve issue here. Deep air diving, I presume?

LOL and they would be ? or shall we start another thread for this :boom:

The cost of helium in Aus makes it almost impossible to dive Mix for all but the super rich diver.
 
I dive with the isolator three turns open.

Any problems, I turn the isolator off first, then the offending reg and then reopen the isolator.

Why? While the isolator is open I'm losing gas from both tanks. If I make a mistake and turn the wrong reg off for some reason then I lose a lot more gas in total. If I turn the correct reg off I have only lost little more gas than I would have otherwise, specifically because the isolator is only a little open.

The argument GI3 gives for having the isolator open completely so you don't get your mixing wrong is a bit strange. Just open it fully when you do your mixing.
 
SimonN once bubbled...
I dive with the isolator three turns open.

Any problems, I turn the isolator off first, then the offending reg and then reopen the isolator.

Why? While the isolator is open I'm losing gas from both tanks. If I make a mistake and turn the wrong reg off for some reason then I lose a lot more gas in total. If I turn the correct reg off I have only lost little more gas than I would have otherwise, specifically because the isolator is only a little open.

The argument GI3 gives for having the isolator open completely so you don't get your mixing wrong is a bit strange. Just open it fully when you do your mixing.

The valves on my manifold only go about a turn and a half from full open to full close. I think the most common failure is goint to be a hose or a reg (free flow) and then you usually know where the problem is. I guess if you can't tell it is a good idea too shut the islolator.
 
All valves open full and back quarter turn. If you have a failure and cannot determine which side it is coming from, start with the right post. Shut it down and breathe the primary regulator down and switch to backup on left post. This way if the sound of bubbles stops, you know it has to do with the right post regulator. If it continues with the right post off, then shut the isolator. It will take a bit for the tank to empty, so you will hear bubbles for quite a while.

In the mean time you should have gotten your buddies attention by now and he can inspect to see if it is a manifold failure or if it is actually a left reg failure. At this point in time he will ensure that you are on the correct regulator (making you change if neccesary) , ensure that the failure is isolated, inform you of where the failure is and turn or thumb the dive. At this point you will do a quick check of your valves to ensure they are in the proper position to isolate the malfunction (based on what your buddy communicated to you), check pressure (if it isn't a left post failure) and head back or up.

If you can hear it is a left post failure then start with the left post. Basically for the sake of making this second nature, if the failure point is unknown start from the right and work your way left.

If it winds up being a right or left post failure, you are not going to benefit from starting with the isolator. Plus the amount of gas lost will determine if the dive can be continued or should be turned or thumbed.

And it all comes down to practice, familiarization and standardization with your equipment (you and your buddy) and maintenance of the gear.
 
crazyc once bubbled...


If it winds up being a right or left post failure, you are not going to benefit from starting with the isolator. Plus the amount of gas lost will determine if the dive can be continued or should be turned or thumbed.


If there is a failure and the problem can't be fixed the dive gets turned. Without an alternate the dive gets turned.

What did I miss?
 
If it is a right or left post fixable failure...eg...a seating problem or loose hose (both which can be tightened by the buddy), why turn the dive once it has been corrected if ample gas remains? Either of these failure will use very little gas.
 
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