how much more $$ for galvanized

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royalediver

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How much more money would you pay for a galvanized cylinder?

Do you feel a hot dipped galvanized cylinder is better? Why?

I am in freshwater, does it matter as much?
 
Considering the folks that make galvanized (PST and worthington?) and the folks that make painted tanks (faber?) pretty muich charge roughly the same prices, from what I've seen, I wouldn't pay anything MORE for such a tank.

That said, I do prefer the galvanized for rust resistance and less-obvious chipping and scuffing, so I might be willing to pay $10 more if that was the price difference between two otherwise-similar tanks.

Things won't rust as fast in fresh water, but steel rusts in water, period.
 
Hey Royaldiver:
I've owned a couple of steel tanks without Hot Dipped Galvanizing and had to deal with the rust. From now on, only real Hot Dipped Galvanized tanks for me.

CARE & MAINTANCE - STEEL TANKS WITHOUT HOT DIPPED GALVANIZING

Always remove the boot after every dive

Always wash your cylinder with fresh water and mild soap, or Corrostop after every dive

Always store your cylinder without a boot and in a dry area

Never drag your cylinders

Frequently inspect your cylinder, in the band, boot and valve area for any signs of corrosion.

Any signs of corrosion, impact or otherwise must be repaired immediately. Failure to make immediate repairs to corrosion is consider neglect.


CARE & MAINTANCE - STEEL TANKS WITH HOT DIPPED GALVANIZING

After diving squirt it with a hose

If you forget, no problem. Squirt it next time.


royalediver:
How much more money would you pay for a galvanized cylinder?

Do you feel a hot dipped galvanized cylinder is better? Why?

I am in freshwater, does it matter as much?
 
I have three hot-dipped HP100's (Genesis) that have been in service for over 20 years. My uncle owned them, never removed the boots and seldom rinsed them, but they're still in great shape. I would heartily recommend the finish!
 
What kind of rust did you have to deal with? I seriously doubt that Faber tanks with triple later protection rust as easily as you proclaim...
 
SparticleBrane:
The kind of rust I'm talking about started out as small bubbles in the paint at the top edge of the boot. A few months later, and I'm talking about orange rust coming right through my triple layer of protection of my Faber LP98.
I didn't make up the instructions for care. It's still up on the OMS site here http://www.omsdive.com/warranty.html For many years the steel tanks sold by OMS were Fabers with the triple layer of protection. Read the OMS care instructions. Do you think this was written my a company that had no issues with returns of rusted tanks?

Since you have serious doubt, you should read this past thread with the opinions of others. http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread...ht=galvanizing

I'll never own another steel tank that is not Hot Dipped Galvanized. Heck, around here you can buy galvanized tanks for the same price as the painted ones.

CARE

Always remove the boot after every dive

Always wash your cylinder with fresh water and mild soap, or Corrostop after every dive

Always store your cylinder without a boot and in a dry area

Never drag your cylinders

Frequently Inspect your cylinder, in the band, boot and valve area for any signs of corrosion.

Any signs of corrosion, impact or otherwise must be repaired immediately. Failure to make immediate repairs to corrosion is consider neglect.

Ocean Management Systems Inc.
PO Box 146 Montgomery, NY 12549
845-692-3600


SparticleBrane:
What kind of rust did you have to deal with? I seriously doubt that Faber tanks with triple later protection rust as easily as you proclaim...
 

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