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There's no scuba police..
How do you like this setup? (Single Tank-Warm water)
- Thread starter SirBubbleHead
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Dude, come on. What you attracted were opinions that don't match yours. You chose to react the way you have. If we all had the same opinion why bother with discussion forums? Did you really expect a bunch of people with (in some cases) a great deal more experience than you to just agree with you on everything? That's a laughable thought at best.
undrwater
Contributor
I'll only add one thing. If you struggle between the usage of "too" and "to", I'd default to "to." It's more frequently used, and easier to read when it's a mistake.
Good luck with your gear selection, and safe and happy diving!
PS: (I lied, here's the second thing): If anyone knows a place I can either trade for or buy a 30# wing cheep, I'm all ears!
Good luck with your gear selection, and safe and happy diving!
PS: (I lied, here's the second thing): If anyone knows a place I can either trade for or buy a 30# wing cheep, I'm all ears!
Bombay High
Contributor
I'll only add one thing. If you struggle between the usage of "too" and "to", I'd default to "to." It's more frequently used, and easier to read when it's a mistake.
Good luck with your gear selection, and safe and happy diving!
PS: (I lied, here's the second thing): If anyone knows a place I can either trade for or buy a 30# wing cheep, I'm all ears!
While on the subject of spelling ....
DaleC
Contributor
Aaron Spelling died some time ago but his daughter Tori is still doing showbiz stuff.
Mr Carcharodon
Contributor
Getting back to the original question about gear selection personally I find a HP100 to be great tank. It is more compact than an aluminum 80 and gives you over 20 more cubic feet of gas while taking weight off your belt and better trims you out, while not being as heavy as a 130 or a set of doubles. What’s not to like about that? Well you have to consider the system as a whole and ask what happens if one element fails, which it will eventually. So if you dive a wing, BP, drysuit(wetsuit), weight system, and steel tank, what happens if any one of the elements fails? Can you still swim it up from depth and stay at the surface until you can swim to the boat or shore? Can your wing float your BP and tanks without you in it (perhaps a less essential consideration, but still having your gear sink into the abyss would not be good). Do you have options like dropping some weight, or a lift bag to get you out of dodge if something fails?
Personally I prefer not to dive solo where possible, but readily confess to doing so where the conditions were benign, and there was diving that needed to be done. At the same time do realize that a dive partner provides an extra computer, regulators, cutting tools, and brain. The last being the most essential. A pony bottle may help with one essential element, but it will not replace an aware partner.
Kudos to you for asking questions, and tolerating the beatings from those who disagree.
Personally I prefer not to dive solo where possible, but readily confess to doing so where the conditions were benign, and there was diving that needed to be done. At the same time do realize that a dive partner provides an extra computer, regulators, cutting tools, and brain. The last being the most essential. A pony bottle may help with one essential element, but it will not replace an aware partner.
Kudos to you for asking questions, and tolerating the beatings from those who disagree.
Slmason.72
Contributor
PS: (I lied, here's the second thing): If anyone knows a place I can either trade for or buy a 30# wing cheep, I'm all ears!
DRIS Dive Gear 28lb Trianta Wing - Dive Right In Scuba - Plainfield, IL
HOG Gear 32lb Wing for Single Cylinder Diving - Dive Right In Scuba - Plainfield, IL
pezman
New
Hi - this response may be a bit dated but I'll take a shot anyway.
I think it's a great idea to start out with equipment that you can continue to use as your diving interests and experience develop. Diving with the same gear as much as possible in different situations is also a lot more comfortable, and works better in emergencies. Technology does develop as well, though, so you can never be certain that what you buy today will not be replaced by something better in the future.
As things stand today, regulators, masks, fins, torches, cutting tools, SMBs are all incredibly flexible - you can use the same setup in virtually all situations outside of contaminated water - cold/warm, salt/fresh, technical/non-technical. An environmentally sealed regulator is worth a few extra dollars in case you ever decide to dive in cold water.
With regard to buoyancy control, backplate and wings are an incredibly flexible solution. Backplates are interchangeble (primarily aluminum vs steel), wings are interchangeable, and you can add or remove D-rings etc to/from your harness as needed. My personal experience is that a tiny wing is a real speciality item - 30-45 pounds offer a lot more options. Hence, if you want to have flexibility, then get a mid-sized wing rather than a tiny one. Also, if you want flexibility, avoid jacket-style BCDs. I would also suggest starting out with an aluminum backplate, as this allows you to put on a little bit more (about 4lbs more) ditchable weight - you should be able to quickly ditch enough weight in any situation to swim up from 20-30 feet, and with a steel backplate there is less to quickly ditch.
With regard to tanks, there are tons of options out there, and the best choice really depends on what kind of dive you are planning to do on a given day. This is not an area where one size (perfectly) fits all situations. Short and shallow dives require a lot less gas than deeper and longer dives. Higher risk dives (solo, deep, low viz, cold etc.) require more redundancy than lower risk dives. My personal choice is actually a double 7 liter for recreational dives, and double 12 liter or 15 liter for technical dives, plus stages. I dive a lot in cold water, so having two first stages is pretty much a necessity. I also like the fact that the double 7 is very balanced, and that emergency actions are the same as if I'm diving double 12s or 15s. In addition, they provide redundancy for any intentional or unintentional solo diving. The downside is that I need to bring a single tank adaptor when travelling, to be able to use single 12 or 15 liter rental tanks. Not a biggie.
With regard to exposure suits I agree with you that a drysuit is the most flexible option. A drysuit can be used in virtually all environmental situations and for any type of dive. Wet suits, on the other hand, are really only good for recreational dives to about 15 degrees celcius, or short technical dives in very warm water. However, drysuits have a number of downsides that may make it worth investing in a more specialized wetsuit setup. Drysuits are expensive, require a bit more maintenance, can be cumbersome to put on and take off, and are really, really hot in hot weather. Putting on a drysuit in anything over 20 degrees celcius can be a bit like sitting in sauna for a while - you start sweating in the suit after a few minutes. So, even though a drysuit is an incredibly flexible solution, getting a wetsuit may be worth it after all. 5mm neoprene works for a lot of situations - as far as I can tell this is what you have now ended up with on your list as well.
One important point about drysuits is that if you want a redundant system, you cannot add up drysuit buoyancy and wing buoyancy to get a total level of buoyancy. Instead, you should think of wings and drysuit as providing redundant lift. If your wing has a problem, you can use the drysuit, and if the drysuit floods, then you can put extra air in the wing. This only works, though, if your wing has enough lift to compensate for a flooded or fully squeezed drysuit - again suggesting a mid-sized as opposed to a small wing. I think this point has been brought up by others on the thread as well.
With regard to solo diving, I would recommend taking a course as soon as possible, so that you don't end up doing it without training. You will find that having a redundant air source (doubles or pony) is one of several requirements for solo.
---------- Post Merged at 02:59 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 02:59 PM ----------
Hi - this response may be a bit dated but I'll take a shot anyway.
I think it's a great idea to start out with equipment that you can continue to use as your diving interests and experience develop. Diving with the same gear as much as possible in different situations is also a lot more comfortable, and works better in emergencies. Technology does develop as well, though, so you can never be certain that what you buy today will not be replaced by something better in the future.
As things stand today, regulators, masks, fins, torches, cutting tools, SMBs are all incredibly flexible - you can use the same setup in virtually all situations outside of contaminated water - cold/warm, salt/fresh, technical/non-technical. An environmentally sealed regulator is worth a few extra dollars in case you ever decide to dive in cold water.
With regard to buoyancy control, backplate and wings are an incredibly flexible solution. Backplates are interchangeble (primarily aluminum vs steel), wings are interchangeable, and you can add or remove D-rings etc to/from your harness as needed. My personal experience is that a tiny wing is a real speciality item - 30-45 pounds offer a lot more options. Hence, if you want to have flexibility, then get a mid-sized wing rather than a tiny one. Also, if you want flexibility, avoid jacket-style BCDs. I would also suggest starting out with an aluminum backplate, as this allows you to put on a little bit more (about 4lbs more) ditchable weight - you should be able to quickly ditch enough weight in any situation to swim up from 20-30 feet, and with a steel backplate there is less to quickly ditch.
With regard to tanks, there are tons of options out there, and the best choice really depends on what kind of dive you are planning to do on a given day. This is not an area where one size (perfectly) fits all situations. Short and shallow dives require a lot less gas than deeper and longer dives. Higher risk dives (solo, deep, low viz, cold etc.) require more redundancy than lower risk dives. My personal choice is actually a double 7 liter for recreational dives, and double 12 liter or 15 liter for technical dives, plus stages. I dive a lot in cold water, so having two first stages is pretty much a necessity. I also like the fact that the double 7 is very balanced, and that emergency actions are the same as if I'm diving double 12s or 15s. In addition, they provide redundancy for any intentional or unintentional solo diving. The downside is that I need to bring a single tank adaptor when travelling, to be able to use single 12 or 15 liter rental tanks. Not a biggie.
With regard to exposure suits I agree with you that a drysuit is the most flexible option. A drysuit can be used in virtually all environmental situations and for any type of dive. Wet suits, on the other hand, are really only good for recreational dives to about 15 degrees celcius, or short technical dives in very warm water. However, drysuits have a number of downsides that may make it worth investing in a more specialized wetsuit setup. Drysuits are expensive, require a bit more maintenance, can be cumbersome to put on and take off, and are really, really hot in hot weather. Putting on a drysuit in anything over 20 degrees celcius can be a bit like sitting in sauna for a while - you start sweating in the suit after a few minutes. So, even though a drysuit is an incredibly flexible solution, getting a wetsuit may be worth it after all. 5mm neoprene works for a lot of situations - as far as I can tell this is what you have now ended up with on your list as well.
One important point about drysuits is that if you want a redundant system, you cannot add up drysuit buoyancy and wing buoyancy to get a total level of buoyancy. Instead, you should think of wings and drysuit as providing redundant lift. If your wing has a problem, you can use the drysuit, and if the drysuit floods, then you can put extra air in the wing. This only works, though, if your wing has enough lift to compensate for a flooded or fully squeezed drysuit - again suggesting a mid-sized as opposed to a small wing. I think this point has been brought up by others on the thread as well.
With regard to solo diving, I would recommend taking a course as soon as possible, so that you don't end up doing it without training. You will find that having a redundant air source (doubles or pony) is one of several requirements for solo.
I think it's a great idea to start out with equipment that you can continue to use as your diving interests and experience develop. Diving with the same gear as much as possible in different situations is also a lot more comfortable, and works better in emergencies. Technology does develop as well, though, so you can never be certain that what you buy today will not be replaced by something better in the future.
As things stand today, regulators, masks, fins, torches, cutting tools, SMBs are all incredibly flexible - you can use the same setup in virtually all situations outside of contaminated water - cold/warm, salt/fresh, technical/non-technical. An environmentally sealed regulator is worth a few extra dollars in case you ever decide to dive in cold water.
With regard to buoyancy control, backplate and wings are an incredibly flexible solution. Backplates are interchangeble (primarily aluminum vs steel), wings are interchangeable, and you can add or remove D-rings etc to/from your harness as needed. My personal experience is that a tiny wing is a real speciality item - 30-45 pounds offer a lot more options. Hence, if you want to have flexibility, then get a mid-sized wing rather than a tiny one. Also, if you want flexibility, avoid jacket-style BCDs. I would also suggest starting out with an aluminum backplate, as this allows you to put on a little bit more (about 4lbs more) ditchable weight - you should be able to quickly ditch enough weight in any situation to swim up from 20-30 feet, and with a steel backplate there is less to quickly ditch.
With regard to tanks, there are tons of options out there, and the best choice really depends on what kind of dive you are planning to do on a given day. This is not an area where one size (perfectly) fits all situations. Short and shallow dives require a lot less gas than deeper and longer dives. Higher risk dives (solo, deep, low viz, cold etc.) require more redundancy than lower risk dives. My personal choice is actually a double 7 liter for recreational dives, and double 12 liter or 15 liter for technical dives, plus stages. I dive a lot in cold water, so having two first stages is pretty much a necessity. I also like the fact that the double 7 is very balanced, and that emergency actions are the same as if I'm diving double 12s or 15s. In addition, they provide redundancy for any intentional or unintentional solo diving. The downside is that I need to bring a single tank adaptor when travelling, to be able to use single 12 or 15 liter rental tanks. Not a biggie.
With regard to exposure suits I agree with you that a drysuit is the most flexible option. A drysuit can be used in virtually all environmental situations and for any type of dive. Wet suits, on the other hand, are really only good for recreational dives to about 15 degrees celcius, or short technical dives in very warm water. However, drysuits have a number of downsides that may make it worth investing in a more specialized wetsuit setup. Drysuits are expensive, require a bit more maintenance, can be cumbersome to put on and take off, and are really, really hot in hot weather. Putting on a drysuit in anything over 20 degrees celcius can be a bit like sitting in sauna for a while - you start sweating in the suit after a few minutes. So, even though a drysuit is an incredibly flexible solution, getting a wetsuit may be worth it after all. 5mm neoprene works for a lot of situations - as far as I can tell this is what you have now ended up with on your list as well.
One important point about drysuits is that if you want a redundant system, you cannot add up drysuit buoyancy and wing buoyancy to get a total level of buoyancy. Instead, you should think of wings and drysuit as providing redundant lift. If your wing has a problem, you can use the drysuit, and if the drysuit floods, then you can put extra air in the wing. This only works, though, if your wing has enough lift to compensate for a flooded or fully squeezed drysuit - again suggesting a mid-sized as opposed to a small wing. I think this point has been brought up by others on the thread as well.
With regard to solo diving, I would recommend taking a course as soon as possible, so that you don't end up doing it without training. You will find that having a redundant air source (doubles or pony) is one of several requirements for solo.
---------- Post Merged at 02:59 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 02:59 PM ----------
Hi - this response may be a bit dated but I'll take a shot anyway.
I think it's a great idea to start out with equipment that you can continue to use as your diving interests and experience develop. Diving with the same gear as much as possible in different situations is also a lot more comfortable, and works better in emergencies. Technology does develop as well, though, so you can never be certain that what you buy today will not be replaced by something better in the future.
As things stand today, regulators, masks, fins, torches, cutting tools, SMBs are all incredibly flexible - you can use the same setup in virtually all situations outside of contaminated water - cold/warm, salt/fresh, technical/non-technical. An environmentally sealed regulator is worth a few extra dollars in case you ever decide to dive in cold water.
With regard to buoyancy control, backplate and wings are an incredibly flexible solution. Backplates are interchangeble (primarily aluminum vs steel), wings are interchangeable, and you can add or remove D-rings etc to/from your harness as needed. My personal experience is that a tiny wing is a real speciality item - 30-45 pounds offer a lot more options. Hence, if you want to have flexibility, then get a mid-sized wing rather than a tiny one. Also, if you want flexibility, avoid jacket-style BCDs. I would also suggest starting out with an aluminum backplate, as this allows you to put on a little bit more (about 4lbs more) ditchable weight - you should be able to quickly ditch enough weight in any situation to swim up from 20-30 feet, and with a steel backplate there is less to quickly ditch.
With regard to tanks, there are tons of options out there, and the best choice really depends on what kind of dive you are planning to do on a given day. This is not an area where one size (perfectly) fits all situations. Short and shallow dives require a lot less gas than deeper and longer dives. Higher risk dives (solo, deep, low viz, cold etc.) require more redundancy than lower risk dives. My personal choice is actually a double 7 liter for recreational dives, and double 12 liter or 15 liter for technical dives, plus stages. I dive a lot in cold water, so having two first stages is pretty much a necessity. I also like the fact that the double 7 is very balanced, and that emergency actions are the same as if I'm diving double 12s or 15s. In addition, they provide redundancy for any intentional or unintentional solo diving. The downside is that I need to bring a single tank adaptor when travelling, to be able to use single 12 or 15 liter rental tanks. Not a biggie.
With regard to exposure suits I agree with you that a drysuit is the most flexible option. A drysuit can be used in virtually all environmental situations and for any type of dive. Wet suits, on the other hand, are really only good for recreational dives to about 15 degrees celcius, or short technical dives in very warm water. However, drysuits have a number of downsides that may make it worth investing in a more specialized wetsuit setup. Drysuits are expensive, require a bit more maintenance, can be cumbersome to put on and take off, and are really, really hot in hot weather. Putting on a drysuit in anything over 20 degrees celcius can be a bit like sitting in sauna for a while - you start sweating in the suit after a few minutes. So, even though a drysuit is an incredibly flexible solution, getting a wetsuit may be worth it after all. 5mm neoprene works for a lot of situations - as far as I can tell this is what you have now ended up with on your list as well.
One important point about drysuits is that if you want a redundant system, you cannot add up drysuit buoyancy and wing buoyancy to get a total level of buoyancy. Instead, you should think of wings and drysuit as providing redundant lift. If your wing has a problem, you can use the drysuit, and if the drysuit floods, then you can put extra air in the wing. This only works, though, if your wing has enough lift to compensate for a flooded or fully squeezed drysuit - again suggesting a mid-sized as opposed to a small wing. I think this point has been brought up by others on the thread as well.
With regard to solo diving, I would recommend taking a course as soon as possible, so that you don't end up doing it without training. You will find that having a redundant air source (doubles or pony) is one of several requirements for solo.
I think Pezman's point is often overlooked. I've written elsewhere on SB that I love my mid-1990's-era Scubapro Stab Jacket ("Classic" model, non-weight-integrated) for single-tank recreational diving, but found it limiting because I'm not able to easily wear a canister light and/or sling a pony/bailout cylinder when wearing it. (Other reasons, too.)
So, in the early 2000's I began looking at a BP/W solution. My canister light at the time was a relatively heavy and bulky lead-acid Halcyon Explorer Pro HID. By the time I "discovered" the Freedom Plate (the only BP solution that works satisfactorily for me) about ten years later, non-canister LED dive lights had become advanced enough to be seriously considered as an alternative for a canister light. Now, in 2012, non-canister LED dive lights have definitely evolved enough that I no longer see any reason for me to own a canister light for my type of recreational diving. This means, one main reason for my seeking a BP/W solution is no longer relevant!
One reason some divers embrace and adopt certain scuba systems/approaches is because these approaches "scale." That is, these systems readily accommodate varying levels of scuba (e.g., basic recreational scuba, technical open water, cave) without requiring extreme changes in gear configuration and protocol. However--my main point here--such systems seem to not allow for advances in scuba technology (which might in fact require changes in protocol). So, OP, please heed Pezman's insightful point while you're making your final gear choices.
Safe Diving,
rx7diver
Last edited:
I was most impressed by "allot" (#16). That's creative writing.
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