Question How do I repair Sola Nightsea Light?

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Bogs

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Hi All,

I have a Light & Motion Sola Nightsea Light that failed on me before I could use it. It failed while in safe mode during travel. I got it replaced, but I also still have the original and I don't want to just add it to a landfill. Light and motion refused to provide any info on what the part numbers might be for the damaged components nor would they let me purchase just the pcb board without the led/battery/housing. I attached pictures of the pcb board that failed.

Does anyone know or have suggestions on how to figure out what the components are. I do have a working pcb from the new light, but i'm not sure how to figure out what the components are. A tech I work with took a look under a microscope and said he believes Q1, Q2, R13, and R14 are damaged. Based on the close up image of the working pcb the transister part number is u7ew1, but I was not able to find that part anywhere. Alternatively, does anyone know if this is the same pcb board as another light? I was thinking maybe its the same pcb as the Sola Dive 1200 or some other lights and it might be easier to get one for parts.

Thanks!
PS: support right to repair!

Broken PCB Front:
broken_pcb_front.jpg

Broken PCB close-up:
broken_pcb_closeup.jpg

What I believe are the failed components:
damaged_components_circled.jpg

Broken PCB back:
broken_pcb_back.jpg

Working PCB Front:
working_pcb_front.jpg

Working PCB close-up:
working_pcb_closeup.jpg
 
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kevjli

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You MIGHT be able to find the specs on those blown parts, but what caused them to blow? They're probably a symptom and not the cause.

I'm not an electrical guy. I once had a neighbor who was. That's what he taught me when I blew a car stereo amp.

Maybe just keep the old light as possible spare parts to your new light?
 
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Bogs

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You MIGHT be able to find the specs on those blown parts, but what caused them to blow? They're probably a symptom and not the cause.

I'm not an electrical guy. I once had a neighbor who was. That's what he taught me when I blew a car stereo amp.

Maybe just keep the old light as possible spare parts to your new light?
That's the plan for now, but I am hoping someone can at least let me know if this pcb matches any of the other sola lights.
 

js47

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I'm about to open all my Solas for cleaning. Have Nightsea, 2500F, 2000SF, and 800SF. Used to have a 1200SF but it was stolen. :(

Will report back. Based on the specs, I suspect the Nightsea is just an 800SF with blue LEDs instead of white.
 

andyhi

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Not sure this helps, but figured I would share...

I have a sola 1200 s/f with 6 outer high intensity flood leds and 3 inner spot leds. Purchased used years back, so who knows how old it is.

The board ID is very close (502-0217-D) and is probably a slightly older revision than yours. The component layout is ~99% the same as your damaged board but there are differences. Ie. Q6 and R31 are populated at the other end of my board. R9 is populated with an "R030" and R20 is an "R100" - Different resistance values from yours.

Also the part numbers on many of the transistors are completely different between our boards. Almost certainly a different oem for some of the transistors. But I also suspect they are different values as my Q1, Q2, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7 are all populated with the same part number: c8A3C. (The first c is lower case, the last is upper case. The A has two underscores underneath... but the fonts and style are very similar to your Q4 & Q5 and are probably the same OEM.)


I also checked the boards from:

An older Sola Video 2500/1200. White housing 2+2 Flood LEDs, 3+3 Spot leds. I think the floods are CREEs. - The board layout and components are completely different than yours.

A somewhat newer Sola Video 3800? w/ dome port. The board layout and components are completely different than yours.

A Sola Dive 2500 S/F I purchased new ~2 months ago from Amazon. 6 outer flood leds, 3 inner spots... similar led layout as the 1200 S/F. The board layout and components are completely different than yours.

I tried a search of both my transistor parts numbers and yours but came up with nothing.... Good luck finding replacement parts.

Did you ask L&M if you could send the light in for repair? I'm told they sometimes charge a flat fee to replace anything wrong and/or swap the battery.
 

lucca brassi

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if you go on smt code book (general search )
https://www.s-manuals.com/smd/u7 ( browser might show unsafe place , but it is ok ) shows
https://www.s-manuals.com/pdf/datasheet/b/s/bsr13,_bsr14_nxp.pdf
BSR 13 NPN SOT 23 switching transistor which have collector current only Ic= 0,8A ?
Usualy is there MOS FET , also important is protecting diode somewhere close

other symbols could meat time production code , production line , manufacturer

it looks also ferite is cracked (*150)? this is problem because it act like current tank ( capacitor is voltage tank ) and store energy ...150uH ( that could destroy pumping tranzistors)

PS : low quality PCB ( type of substrate PCB ) , type of pads , wrong size components...(D2)
 

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js47

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Posting my findings. All my lights have the three central spots and the 6 outer floods, except for the 2500 which is just one huge LED.
 

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Bogs

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Not sure this helps, but figured I would share...

I have a sola 1200 s/f with 6 outer high intensity flood leds and 3 inner spot leds. Purchased used years back, so who knows how old it is.

The board ID is very close (502-0217-D) and is probably a slightly older revision than yours. The component layout is ~99% the same as your damaged board but there are differences. Ie. Q6 and R31 are populated at the other end of my board. R9 is populated with an "R030" and R20 is an "R100" - Different resistance values from yours.

Also the part numbers on many of the transistors are completely different between our boards. Almost certainly a different oem for some of the transistors. But I also suspect they are different values as my Q1, Q2, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7 are all populated with the same part number: c8A3C. (The first c is lower case, the last is upper case. The A has two underscores underneath... but the fonts and style are very similar to your Q4 & Q5 and are probably the same OEM.)


I also checked the boards from:

An older Sola Video 2500/1200. White housing 2+2 Flood LEDs, 3+3 Spot leds. I think the floods are CREEs. - The board layout and components are completely different than yours.

A somewhat newer Sola Video 3800? w/ dome port. The board layout and components are completely different than yours.

A Sola Dive 2500 S/F I purchased new ~2 months ago from Amazon. 6 outer flood leds, 3 inner spots... similar led layout as the 1200 S/F. The board layout and components are completely different than yours.

I tried a search of both my transistor parts numbers and yours but came up with nothing.... Good luck finding replacement parts.

Did you ask L&M if you could send the light in for repair? I'm told they sometimes charge a flat fee to replace anything wrong and/or swap the battery.
Thanks for taking a look! This is really good info! Sounds like it might be hard to find a replacement board.

I have asked them if I can buy replacement parts and they didn't allow that. I'll check if I can send it in for a repair.
 
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Bogs

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Posting my findings. All my lights have the three central spots and the 6 outer floods, except for the 2500 which is just one huge LED.
Thanks for getting these pictures! Looks like the 2000SF is the closest match? Same id at the top(502-0238-A). I do notice the small chip above C8 is different from my nightsea, hopefully its just a different part/revision and not a specific part for the nightsea. I cant tell from your picture, but does the chip above C8 on the nightsea match the 2000SF on yours?

The other interesting thing is that there are 2 metal sheets that run off the side. Mine did not come with that and I wonder if that was what caused it to fail.
 
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