Housing and strobe system for G11?

[Gretsch]

Hi Everyone,

I've been lurking and searching but this is my first post. I'm new to underwater photography and have just started diving (24 dives so far). I own a Canon G11 and it is my first quality camera.

1) How long have you been diving?
-Not long but I've got a good handle on buoyancy etc. certified advanced open water.
2) How many dives have you logged?
-24
3) How much experience with general photography do you have?
-No real experience.
4) Do you currently have a camera? Film? Digital? Digital
-Canon G11
5) How often do you dive?
-Just starting. I'm landlocked (Colorado) so not as much as I'd like.
6) What type of diving do you mostly do?
-Reefs, wrecks, etc.
7) Where do you do most of your diving?
-Been to Maui and will be headed to West Palm Beach in a month.
8) What do you think you may want to photograph the most?
-Larger animals but would like to have the option of shooting some smaller stuff too.
9) Do you have an idea what you may want already?
-I own the G11 but need advice on a housing and strobe.
10) How much do you expect to spend? Can you afford? Spent ~500 on the camera and expect to spend another ~1000 -1200. I'm willing to spend a little extra cash to get good quality equipment that I can grow into.

I've been doing a lot of research and would like some help in selecting a housing and strobe system.
-I would prefer fiber optic vs. electrical strobe connections (flooding & maintenance).
-I'll be traveling via. air to dive so size is a factor.
-Ease of use

Thanks!

 

[Divingguy]

First of all, welcome to the Board.
Secondly, thanks for at least making the effort to provide some additional information.
My initial recommendation would be for you to get the Canon housing, which I have for my G10, and have had very good success with, and to get some more dives under your belt while using just the camera and housing. Then by all means you can add to the complexity with strobes, arms, etc...
You can actually get some really nice pictures using ambient light if you are not too deep.
Do a search, and read the manual about how to adjust for white balance, or, shoot raw.

 

[PatW]

I have the Ikelite Housing. It is nice and rugged. I am very happy with it. It seems to be a bit idiot proof also. I have Ikelite's DS51 strobe. The Ike strobes and housings have a TTL feature with the camera. The downside is it is about twise the cost of the Canon housing. Ike is considered the best inexpensive housing by most people. The Ike housing allows a macro lens adapter on it in a wet lens and you can buy a dome that restores the Canon's full wide angle.

I would suggest the Ike housing over the Canon housing. The Ike housing is rated to 200' and the canon housing to something like 130'. I don't like the idea of diving to about 80% of my housings rating. I don't have the canon housing and many people use it and like it.

Fix & Patma make a more robust and compact housing. Their housings go for about $1000. The housings have an advantage in that they accept ultra wide angle attachments.

I would suggest that you give MACRO shots a bit of thought. The G11 does a pretty good job with macro and since you are so close, the photos come out sharp. Another thing is many of the small critters will just sit there for you so shutter lag is not an issue.

I have done one dive trip. Looking at my photos, I can see why dive photos are about wide angle or macro. The closer you get to your subject the better. Now, I look at my photos and I can see where I could have improved them. But my friends were all wowed by them.

Another thing, is fool around with the RAW format. The RAW format allows you to reclaim shadow detail, highlight detail, fool with exposure and manipulate the white balance (this is critical for underwater photos). However, RAW uses up card space so for 2 dives, you will need about a 4 Gig card (about 270 exposures).

Another suggestion. Fool around with your camera and take shots topside. Get the hang of the camera top side before you take it diving.

Topside I use a high quality DSLR. The Canon G11 is no SLR. But it is a pretty capable point and shoot. It has nice controls. I think you will be happy with the results.

 

[Gilligan]

The previous posts are all good info for you.

Least expensive is the Canon housing, which I use for my G10. I am totally satisfied with it.

Shooting RAW is the way to go, especially for non-strobe shots. I am a RAW convert after years of shooting JPG

This is my G10 setup with a Sea & Sea strobe (fiber optic). It's compact and lightweight and the least expensive way to go, if money and size matters to you. My strobe model is discontinued but newer models are available as well as Inon brand strobes.

IMO if you go with an Ikelite housing you should go with their strobe, tray and arm.

 

[Gretsch]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Jim I read your article and found it to be very useful. I'm leaning towards the Ikelite housing & setup (strobes etc.) but I was hoping for a fiber optic connection. It would appear that with the Ikelite system you have to use the electrical TTL connection. Is that right or am I missing something.

 

[Gretsch]

Hmmmm.... OK, after some reflection I think the best idea would be for me to get the Canon housing and no strobe...for now. It's not like I'm going to be diving every weekend and can justifiy the expense of the Ikelite + strobe. I can always modify to Jim's setup if I get to a higher level. I live in the middle of the country for the love of god...

 

[Gilligan]

Hmmmm.... OK, after some reflection I think the best idea would be for me to get the Canon housing and no strobe...for now. It's not like I'm going to be diving every weekend and can justifiy the expense of the Ikelite + strobe. I can always modify to Jim's setup if I get to a higher level. I live in the middle of the country for the love of god...

The problem you will encounter with the G11 (and G10) with the Canon housing without an external strobe is a dark area on the bottom of your macro shots using the internal strobe. The lens tunnel on the Canon housing protrudes out enough so as to block the cameras internal strobe on up-close shots.
You can somewhat compensate by:
1. Backing away from your subject to get as much of the strobe as possible then crop the photo in PS.
or
2. Place your macro subject in the top portion of the photo then crop it in PS.

Bottom line is you need an external strobe with the Canon housing to get the most out of the camera/housing.

 

[WOODMAN]

Another thing to consider is that with the G11 you have one of the very few point and shoot cameras with a hot shoe. With this you can activate the TTL metering system built into the Ikelite housings (when used with an Ikelite strobe), and this can be a godsend to the beginning photographer. It will automatically calculate the proper exposure level for the strobe based on what the camera meters are seeing, and set the strobe accordingly. It's not perfect, and it can be fooled by certain conditions, but it usually works great for most shots. Camera and strobe talking to each other- just another thing that the Ikelite systems give you which you could never access with the Canon housing. By the way, what do you have against a hardwired connection? Granted, there is some maintenance involved, but it pales in the face of the general upkeep of the whole system. Underwater cameras need meticulous and painstaking (dare I say anal?) care, [especially of the seals!] and if this bothers you, you are in for trouble. The new Ikelite cords are manufactured with stress relief connectors that greatly minimize the chance of wire breakage, and the care and maintenance they require is just a drop in the bucket compared with the total job, IMHO. But, to each his own. Good luck.

 

[Gretsch]

Another thing to consider is that with the G11 you have one of the very few point and shoot cameras with a hot shoe. With this you can activate the TTL metering system built into the Ikelite housings (when used with an Ikelite strobe), and this can be a godsend to the beginning photographer. It will automatically calculate the proper exposure level for the strobe based on what the camera meters are seeing, and set the strobe accordingly. It's not perfect, and it can be fooled by certain conditions, but it usually works great for most shots. Camera and strobe talking to each other- just another thing that the Ikelite systems give you which you could never access with the Canon housing. By the way, what do you have against a hardwired connection? Granted, there is some maintenance involved, but it pales in the face of the general upkeep of the whole system. Underwater cameras need meticulous and painstaking (dare I say anal?) care, [especially of the seals!] and if this bothers you, you are in for trouble. The new Ikelite cords are manufactured with stress relief connectors that greatly minimize the chance of wire breakage, and the care and maintenance they require is just a drop in the bucket compared with the total job, IMHO. But, to each his own. Good luck.

I just heard that fiber was less prone to floods but that's just from reading here. I don't mind the maintenance and take good care of my other equipment. There is so much to learn....what have I gotten myself into Seriously, I like a challenge but I don't want to make it any harder on myself than need be so I really appreciate everyone's feedback. Looks like I'm back to the drawing board for a good system.

 

[LeeParrish]

The problem you will encounter with the G11 (and G10) with the Canon housing without an external strobe is a dark area on the bottom of your macro shots using the internal strobe. The lens tunnel on the Canon housing protrudes out enough so as to block the cameras internal strobe on up-close shots.
You can somewhat compensate by:
1. Backing away from your subject to get as much of the strobe as possible then crop the photo in PS.
or
2. Place your macro subject in the top portion of the photo then crop it in PS.

Bottom line is you need an external strobe with the Canon housing to get the most out of the camera/housing.

If you use the diffuser that is included with the housing it will alleviate the shadow. I have the G11 and Canon housing, and while I now use an external strobe it works fine for macro shots without one as long as you remember the diffuser.