Hospital Hole photo question

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Snorkelboy

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Lake City
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I'm a Fish!
I will be going to hospital hole this weekend 8-28/29-10 and have an idea for a photo (I've been here a few times). My father gave me an older 35mm camera and under water case with a strobe, they work I think, I'm checking tonight. I have access to some additional canister lights, although not strobe type, the kind cave divers use. I would like to leave with at least one good photo, the pic I would like is me or my buddy partially submerged up to the mask in the hydrogen sulfied layer (a thick white cloud) on the lighted side or top side of layer. I have never taken any photos under water, and never used 35mm film either. What should I try to look out for, and does any one have any good advice. Not sure what the brand of camera is yet either as I have not cracked open the case.

Thank you in advance.:D


The camera looks kind of cheap, its a Sealife Reefmaster RC Automatic f3.5 1/140
it comes with a Sealife color corrected close-up lens +3 , U/W 60-120cm/2-4ft.
this lens sticks onto the outside of the case
 
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I am thinking that if I bring enough lights I could flood the area with constant light and be able to get a visible photo. The area is semi dark and is really dark under the layer.

the layer occurs about 60'-70' deppending on tide.

I will post more on the camera tonight, I feel this may be important to answer the question.
 
It's been a while since I've been to the hole (so forgive me if I get anything wrong here)....


I see some problems that you'll need to address or figure out.

[1] The Hydrogen-sulfide layer is down a good ways and unless you have perfect viz and direct light (not overcast) you will have significant lighting issues

[2] the Hydrogen-sulfide layer is well defined - but not so much that you (and a buddy) will be able to have a definative position as described (unless I misunderstand what you're saying)

[3] You want to have someone else take the shot (obviously) AND they'll need to be close. So a Wide Angle lens will be a necessity (and so will the lighting).

[4] With "Film" you'll want to bracket your shots, and depth-of-field will be an important factor. I'd want to be able to shoot at least f5.6 (or higher). Strobe settings are based on ISO 100, but you can pick up several stops by using something in the ISO 400 range (and you might want/need to take several attempts at it with different ISO films).

[5] The HID lighting will have a very narrow focus/beam, so you'll need to figure out how you'll use it. I'm not sure it even is usable other than for "creative" effect


I'm sure I'm probably going to miss some things here - but if you can lick those issues I'm sure you'll overcome anything else.

I know I'm sounding like I'm raining on your parade - but I am not intending to. I just want to answer your question as best as I can in an attempt to "help".

No matter the outcome, it ought to be a fun day trying and learning...


All the best,

jim
 
Praying for perfect viz and a nice sun shiney day.

Its been a little over a year since I have been there, and I think your right about the layer not being well defined, you understood. But, "in the layer" is the effect I would like to have. Although having only the mask visible like you where on the surface would be very nice too.

A wide angle lens is not an option for this camera at this point. I will definatley look into the focal ratio and trying out some iso 400 film and others. Good idea, I had not thought of that since I only have expierence with digital and that can be adjusted at the touch of a button. Also I am still learning that, have been for about 10 years now. Trial and error you know.

My plan with the lights, since there is not really any where to place them, is to attach them to my harness by the goodman handle and pointing directly in front of me. Sounds a little unproffesional, I know, but it might look pretty cool in the end.

Not raining on my parade at all it was all good advice as far as I am concerned and did get me thinking more, I really do appretiate it, thanks.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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