mi000ke
Contributor
- Messages
- 1,144
- Reaction score
- 1,739
- Location
- Massachusetts & Grand Cayman Island
- # of dives
- 200 - 499
I was (still am) an experienced landscape/wildlife photographer who got into diving and underwater photography just a few years ago. As already mentioned, the whole concept of managing light is vastly different underwater. I had to get used to taking photos of subjects that were fractions of an inch way rather than fractions of a mile, and how to best position strobes - something I almost never use on land.
With that background, the way that worked well for me was to first dive with an old point and shoot (Canon s110) that had manual settings, optical zoom, supported RAW format - and not to use strobes - just ambient light. (RAW is important as you will need to correct white balance in post processing if not using strobes). So, just the camera in a housing. With no strobe and shooting RAW, you can get pretty good photos of things at a distance, whereas with a strobe you have to be pretty close (you'll learn about backscatter soon enough). And by not using strobes you will eliminate one more piece of equipment to worry about. By shooting at a distance you will eliminate some of the buoyancy control issues. As you get more comfortable diving with a camera in your hands and controlling your buoyancy you can try getting closer to your subjects. Eventually you will be able to get very close and hold your position. And when you get to that point, as I eventually (sort of) did, you can then think about adding a strobe and maybe upgrading your camera and lenses.
Oh, and the other advantage of using an old camera is if the housing floods (and as a few folks have mentioned, eventually they always seem to) it will be a less expensive hit.
Good luck!
With that background, the way that worked well for me was to first dive with an old point and shoot (Canon s110) that had manual settings, optical zoom, supported RAW format - and not to use strobes - just ambient light. (RAW is important as you will need to correct white balance in post processing if not using strobes). So, just the camera in a housing. With no strobe and shooting RAW, you can get pretty good photos of things at a distance, whereas with a strobe you have to be pretty close (you'll learn about backscatter soon enough). And by not using strobes you will eliminate one more piece of equipment to worry about. By shooting at a distance you will eliminate some of the buoyancy control issues. As you get more comfortable diving with a camera in your hands and controlling your buoyancy you can try getting closer to your subjects. Eventually you will be able to get very close and hold your position. And when you get to that point, as I eventually (sort of) did, you can then think about adding a strobe and maybe upgrading your camera and lenses.
Oh, and the other advantage of using an old camera is if the housing floods (and as a few folks have mentioned, eventually they always seem to) it will be a less expensive hit.
Good luck!