detroit diver
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Excellent idea. I assumed that S_G did'nt have one of those.
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sillygrendel, if you don't have a dremel, just leave the wingnuts on the bolt before trimming the bolts with the hacksaw - after trimming, they will act like mini-dies and at least let you remove and replace the wingnuts until you get a chance to finish off the cut edges with sandpaper or a sharpening stone - they will bend any threads pushed out of shape by the hacksaw roughly back into shape. If you cut the bolts without the wingnuts on, you might find it difficult to get them back on again ever. Years of farm maintenance behind this statementthethumper once bubbled...
using a Dremel. Tends to be more control & you can smoothe any burrs, or even tapper the bolt.![]()
ScubaKims once bubbled...
The only complaint I have is the webbing ... can't carry the thing (loaded) with no shirt on cause it bites into the skin. Divrnr - where did you get those harness pads from ? I saw some from OMS, but >$20 a pair seems kinda steep for what it is.
Also ... why must one use wingnuts?? If you don't plan on removing the bolts just use SS nylocks and be done with it - it won't go anywhere and by using the thin/HD buts you'll decrease the profile significantly. Is there something wrong with this method?
Paul
If you are using tanks with STAs or two sets of doubles it would be too hard to switch tanks over between dives. We usually take 2 sets of doubles and just unscrew the wing nuts, switch the doubles, and reattach. If you have an MC pack, this is a LOT easier if you leave one of the bottom MC bolts off so you can "peel" it back and access that bottom wingnut. Hard as heck on a pitching boat with that bolt in place.Also ... why must one use wingnuts?? If you don't plan on removing the bolts just use SS nylocks and be done with it - it won't go anywhere and by using the thin/HD buts you'll decrease the profile significantly. Is there something wrong with this method?