help understanding diopters for lenses

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on the "virtual image" that it forms. With the 6" dome that's about 12" out.

Hehehheh... just when I thought it was safe to go out...
HUH ???? (joking)

So until it sinks in, what's the simplest way to figure out what lens to use with what dome/port that wouldn't require a diopter???

Just match with the mfg's/ housing spec???
i.e. you can use this lens, but need a 8" dome or something along that line... depending upon the camera /housing's ability to attach it???


Thanx much.. I can see I still need to cruise the threads...
Appreciate the help though...
 
fpoole:
Hehehheh... just when I thought it was safe to go out...
HUH ???? (joking)

<g>

So until it sinks in, what's the simplest way to figure out what lens to use with what dome/port that wouldn't require a diopter???

Just match with the mfg's/ housing spec???
i.e. you can use this lens, but need a 8" dome or something along that line... depending upon the camera /housing's ability to attach it???

That's the way I do it. I don't know just enough to be dangerous; I don't know enough to make my own decisions on this.

Ikelite's site says you need a +4 diopter when you use the 18-70 mm. lens with their 6" port. It also says you don't need a diopter with the 12-24 mm. lens. (You have to look at the asterisks next to the lens listings...)
 
Go away for a few days, and look at all the talk...

Anyway, fpoole, your post #9 is a pretty good summary of what works.

Except we didn't mention the curved-field issue...

In the illustrations following, I've made them to scale, using numbers for a 14mm f2.8 Nikkor. Depth of Field is to scale as well.

Dome ports generate a virtual image that is curved. So, a 8" dome generates a virtual image that is about 16" from the focal plane, in a curve that matches the dome:
domesCompared.gif




A typical wide-angle lens is rectilinear, and focuses in a flat plane. Here's the 14mm lens, with the depth of field that is accecptabally sharp:
DomeDOF.gif




With a small dome, note that the edges (usually the corners) of the virtual image fall outside the Depth of Field, and go soft:
Dome6inch.gif




However, in this case, an 8" dome gives the depth of field a bit more room to cover the entire frame. Note: the focus is actually short of the virtual image!
Dome8inch.gif




So you can see, there are a few more variables than just that the lens can focus at the virtual image. You actually have to have appreciable ability to focus shorter than the virtual image.

At the risk of being long-winded, I should point out that fisheye lenses have focus planes that are curved (Not flat, like the 14mm illustration above). This allows very sharp images when behind a dome port, without a diopter. Of course, the image has fisheye distortion, which is a matter of taste as to whether you love it or hate it.

Reputable manufacturers, like Ikelite, have actually tested their lens/dome combinations and are a safe bet.

Hope this didn't make things muddier!


All the best, James
 
Thanks James for a very good description. Some lenses like Nikkor 12-24mm just does not seem to play well with diopter and small dome at all and seeing your diagram, I could see why. Never got it to work well at all with Sea and Sea Compact Domeport with various diopters/extension rings until I almost gave up the lens but it is excellent with Subal 8" domeport without diopter.
 
yes, thank you all for Clearing the Fog... it s'plains it in simple terms.. heheh.. but you can rest assured, IF? and when I'm ready to upgrade, in the words of Arnold...
"I'll be baaack...!!"

LOL... but I now have some idea, just as indicated above, have to look closely for fittings on bodys and Domes & Diopters...
Thanx much...
 

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