Help please with new Faber 12L tank - leaks around valve knob

[The Chairman]

Spray bottles are fine for low pressure leaks. If it's really significant, and you (literally) can't put your finger on it, put it in a dunk tank. Good point about a bent shaft being a possible cause. It depends on how bent and if was scored during the bend. Oh yeah, not all inserts need an 8mm allen wrench to remove them. I've seen at least three sizes.

 

[Namreg 58]

Spray bottles are fine for low pressure leaks. If it's really significant, and you (literally) can't put your finger on it, put it in a dunk tank. Good point about a bent shaft being a possible cause. It depends on how bent and if was scored during the bend. Oh yeah, not all inserts need an 8mm allen wrench to remove them. I've seen at least three sizes.

That's why I said to turn the air on so you can JUST hear the air rushing out.

Shafts usually get bent when tanks fall over the wrong way (happens a lot on boats when changing tanks )and it's usually best to replace the shaft to save a lot of farting around.

As the OP is just across the "ditch" from OZ, I made an educated guess that it would be an 8mm size endemic to our region for the last 15 years or so on Fabers.

 

[Bert van den Berg]

Thanks everyone for taking the time to respond and especially to "Diver0001" for the diagram of the valve. From the diagram it seems safe to disassemble and check the o-ring and teflon washer. In the end I decided not to try the repair on the boat. Too bad because of that little problem two people missed out on a tank dive, one tank shy for a buddy dive. We also have a hookah on board and dove with that instead.

Probably could have fixed the problem and if I had a bit of experience with this problem I would have tried. Shows that no matter how well equipped you are, there is no substitute for experience.

Back home now and I'm going to let out all but about 50 PSI of the air and then have a go at taking the valve apart. Will let you know the results later today.

Cheers,

Bert

---------- Post added March 30th, 2014 at 05:07 PM ----------

Problem solved. It was the DIN to K fitting that was loose. clowfishsydney you were right. Now I know for the next time.

 

[Diver0001]

OK, you're overly cautious. Great blow up (sorry couldn't resist). Just don't turn number 10 and replace number 08 with a 010 O-Ring. I've done this any number of times. The orifice closed off by number ten is maybe 3/16". Number ten is doing all the work when the valve is closed.

Checked with my regular buddy who is a much better tech than I will ever be and he confirms that you are right and I'm "overly cautious".

Damn! I hate being wrong.

R..

 

[The Chairman]

Checked with my regular buddy who is a much better tech than I will ever be and he confirms that you are right and I'm "overly cautious".

Damn! I hate being wrong.

Don't hate being wrong. Rather, hate being unable to learn from it. You'll stop being wrong after you die. I celebrate most of my mistakes.

 

[divad]

Checked with my regular buddy who is a much better tech than I will ever be and he confirms that you are right and I'm "overly cautious".

Damn! I hate being wrong.

R..

According to the OP you are not wrong......... in the context of his relative inexperience with tank valves.


Yay, nobody's wrong!.................. Wait,this can't be right.

 

[T.C.]

yay, nobody's wrong!.................. Wait,this can't be right.

Somebody must be wrong!!! It's the internet!!!:d