Help Me Decide

[Dhickman13]

Hello all. I am researching backplate and wings and am struggling with backplate material, wing size, and STA / no STA options. I've narrowed it down to either HOG or DGX/OMS configurations. Looking for opinions and recommendations.

First, stainless steel vs. aluminum. I dive both freshwater and salt, with skins to 5mm wetsuits, and aluminum 80 tanks. In salt, with a skin, I typically need about 8 pounds of lead. I don't normally dive with skins in fresh, but if I do I need about 6 pounds of lead. Does it make sense to go with SS and potentially eliminate additional lead, or AL and use additional lead for trim adjustments?

How about wing size? HOG offers either a 23 or 32 lb. OMS has 27 or 32 lb. Given the same tank and exposure suit variables, which size wing would you choose? I am leaning towards the larger wings, but is that overkill?

Lastly the STA question. Does it make sense to go ahead and start with one and choose to discard later if it does not seem to be useful? Or start without and see how it goes?

 

[lexvil]

For me, stainless and the smaller wing. I like an STA especially for a conventional plate design as it makes tank changes easier.

 

[James79]

As a point of reference, I use steel 72s (neutral when empty, -6 full) where as an AL 80 is closer to neutral full, and positive when empty. With my 72's I use no lead with an aluminum plate and 3mm full suit in fresh water. No lead with the same rig and no wetsuit in salt. I recently dove warm freshwater for the first time, and had to wear my 3mm shorty to not be too negative despite not needing anything for thermal reasons. A stainless plate would probably put you in the same situation (the plate offsetting the AL80).
As to what type wing, there are 3 things to consider:
1. Offsetting air used on the dive (approx. 5 lb for an AL80).
2. Offsetting buoyancy lost from wetsuit compression (depends on the suit/thickness, but theoretical worst case for a 5 mil is around 12 lb).
3. Being able to float the rig on the surface (integrated weights or not make a huge difference here).
From your descriptions, a 23 lb wing should be fine for you, but if you want to delve into greater detail, look here: Optimal Buoyancy Computer
I'm not a fan of STA's, but everyones different. I would recommend trying without, and you can always add one later (but I'm a cheapskate).

Respectfully,

James

 

[Jim Lapenta]

I have an article on BPW configurations that I can send you if you'll message me your email address. It's 11 pages and too long to post here.
Personally I prefer steel plates with al cylinders because it allows me to take more lead off of the belt and put it over the lungs where it belongs. When I've had al plates I added a weight pocket to each cam band to allow me to mimic a steel plate if I chose or needed to. Traveling with an al plate is sometimes easier when there are luggage weight concerns.
I also use the weight pockets on my steel single tank set up when I'm in a drysuit or my 5mm free diving farmer john and using a steel 72, al 80, or similar cylinder. Again, I can put more lead on the plate and get better distribution.
Wing size. I've owned a couple 23's and sold them both. I have to take into consideration that the HOG 23 and 32 are not that much different overall size. Not enough to create any issues. The 32 does not taco on a skinny lp72 and I also like having that little bit of extra lift if I need to assist another diver. It has made a difference on a couple of occasions.
People will talk about increased drag of the larger wing.
My question is, how fast are you trying to swim that you worry about "drag?" And why? The HOG 32 has an external bungee that is not like the old death bungee on the OMS wing that had like 90-100 lbs of lift. It keeps the wing nice and tight when not inflated and does not impede full inflation.
And if you later decide to use a heavy steel or have to assist another diver, you'll be glad you had the extra lift of a 32-35.
As for STA's - tried them and now never use one. Puts the tank too far away from my back and the HOG wings don't require one. They may make it easier to change tanks in some situations, but I've swapped tanks on a boat in 6-8 ft seas off of Monterey California and didn't have an issue. Swapping tanks is a skills issue that can be resolved easily with practice and a little thought given to timing and sequence.

 

[johndiver999]

The stated difference between FW vs saltwater is incorrect. your stated difference of 2 lbs is a little low. Not a big deal.

If you are sure that you are always going to be using an aluminum 80 tank, then a steel plate might makes sense.

If you might use a steel tank and a dive skin, then you would want an aluminum plate- not a heavy steel one. Thus an aluminum plate is more versatile and allows you to tweek trim a little and may also facilitate the carrying of ditchable lead - all potential benefits in certain situations.

I personally would learn toward 30-35 lbs of lift, a little extra capacity could be beneficial in emergency situations.

I like the STA, I rig my BP/W as a fixed unit.

 

[Nemrod]

Warm and salt, 3mm full suit to no suit, aluminum 80 tanks:

Oxy 18 wing and Oxy Ultra Lite textile plate.

Moderate temps in up to 5mm rubber full suit and under layer rubber:

Oxy 30 wing and conventional aluminum plate.

I am a believer in ditchable weight, enough to get to at least neutral if not positive.

If you can afford only one wing and BP then get one of the cut down "travel" aluminum plates and an Oxy 30 wing. I hate STAs but a stainless STA can add some additional weight where beneficial.

N

 

[dmaziuk]

One thing to consider is where to put additional lead if you go w/ Al plate: you may want a harness. OTOH a steel plate with a couple of 2lb weights on the top camband means no ditchable weight: not everyone likes that.

 

[Centrals]

This is my own set up:
Al plate, 27lb wing and NO STA.
Ditchable weight? Yes.
Happy shopping.