Heated Undersuit batteries

[BFRedrocks]

150watts is about three to four times what I use - even on multi-hour dives in 4C water or ice diving. And I get cold <very> easily.

I don't understand how anyone could need or use that much heat without sweating like crazy. Unless the thinsulate in that suit is old and compressed or you have a thin hood or some other explanation.

I always assumed the watts of the suit (110w) and gloves (36w) combined is based more so on how much heated wiring is in the suit and the power needed to heat all of that to about 45 deg C (based on Santi site if I recall), rather than making the suit too hot with more wattage. I tried on the suit inside my house with the Santi battery (on/off only) and I was definitely warm but not burning, but the real test will be in 28 deg F water next year.

From Santi (for the suit):

• maximum heating temperature 45°C,
• maximum heating power: 110W,

 

[tbone1004]

@BFRedrocks The technology *and I say that very loosely* in these suits means that they are going to automatically current regulate themselves at a certain temperature and power consumption. i.e. when turned on with their rated voltage, they will only pull that much power. That is typically going to be rated at somewhere between 13-14v because that is what a motorcycle alternator puts out. Less voltage=less heat=less wattage which is roughly linear.
The watt consumption is going to be based on how many elements are in there, and that is why things like the Pitkin and UWLD controllers were developed. Having more elements is ideal since it covers more of your body, however it is also putting out more total BTU's which makes it far too hot. Instead of flipping them on when you get cold, then off when you get too hot, and repeat as necessary, you just turn it down and leave it on constantly at a "comfortable" setting.

How long did you leave it on in the house? While it may not have been bad for a relatively short duration, even in frigid water it can get to be too much over an hour or more.

 

[BFRedrocks]

I agree that testing it in the house for maybe 10 minutes doesn't come close to what it'll be like for 40 mins + underwater, so I'll just have to see how it is at the various power levels and report back. As folks already know, everyone's cold (or heat) tolerance is different. New battery should be here in about a month, just in time for my local lake to start cooling off and air temps to be more reasonable for diving with a heated undersuit.

 

[West.Coast.Diver]

Anyone have any experience with the Halcyon heater packs?

 

[tbone1004]

Anyone have any experience with the Halcyon heater packs?

they haven't been discussed here because they don't have variable output. You get 2 choices, high, or off. You'll be somewhat frequently turning it on and off and because Halcyon uses 11.1v battery packs, they fall off as the battery drains, so it's not one I would bother with unless you have a hardon for the blue H and are OK with running it on high. $300 more gets you the UWLD heat controller with constant output and multiple levels, latchless canister and ability to stack different light heads on if you want. The Halcyon can technically charge through the EO cord so you don't have to open it up. At $300 more for the UWLD, it's a no brainer IMO

 

[Jack Hammer]

Overall the UWLD controller is pretty sweet. I use it with a Santi vest. I had a full suit flood in 39F/4C water as we turned a dive at Mine LaMotte in Missouri. Even finning fast it still took 45 mins to exit. As miserable, cold, and wet as I was I still couldn't keep the controller on high for more than a few seconds at a time as the vest just got way too hot. Most dives I run it on 1 or 2.

What I dont like is how long the cord is and how sensitive the piezzo switch is. If the inflator bumps it it would change settings or turn on/off. That made the swim out even less pleasant as I had to keep messing with it. I since made a sleeve for it that fixed that.

 

[tbone1004]

@Jack Hammer when ordering UWLD can make the cables custom length and I know he can shorten cables cheaply and easily.

 

[West.Coast.Diver]

they haven't been discussed here because they don't have variable output. You get 2 choices, high, or off. You'll be somewhat frequently turning it on and off and because Halcyon uses 11.1v battery packs, they fall off as the battery drains, so it's not one I would bother with unless you have a hardon for the blue H and are OK with running it on high. $300 more gets you the UWLD heat controller with constant output and multiple levels, latchless canister and ability to stack different light heads on if you want. The Halcyon can technically charge through the EO cord so you don't have to open it up. At $300 more for the UWLD, it's a no brainer IMO

Thanks for this - was curious why it hadn't come up. I bought a Santi heated vest that I never got round to purchasing a battery for due to personal budget at the time. I did check out the UWLD website and couldn't make sense of their store options - they all seemed to want a double connection system. All I want is a single battery that will plug into a Santi Thermovalve. Am I missing something there?

 

[tbone1004]

@West.Coast.Diver something is wrong on the site with the heater and I noticed it today. I recommend you contact @Bobby directly via email on his website. He will get you sorted out with the 4 different cap options.

 

[West.Coast.Diver]

@West.Coast.Diver something is wrong on the site with the heater and I noticed it today. I recommend you contact @Bobby directly via email on his website. He will get you sorted out with the 4 different cap options.

Cool, thanks. Will follow-up with them.