Here the humidity is 90+ much of the time andf the temp is also i n that range. I after vis ing a tank fill to say 600 psi vent it out and then refill the tank to wp. 600 psi is about 40 bar and if the tank has 100% humidity before than it will have 1/40th of that now. do it twice and it will be probably equal to the humidity of the air from the cascade system. Whether this process actually succeeds in anything over what just filling will do, I dont know but I do know that it will reduce the moisture in the tank in principle and aplication.
Have a question about tank vis inspection
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captain
Contributor
Much ado about nothing.
Use old silica gel packets from new shoes, camera accessories, etc. Just toss a couple in before the valve is spun on. 
Anyone taking this seriously, Darwin is waiting for you. Don't make him wait too long. And fer chrissakes please don't breed.
Anyone taking this seriously, Darwin is waiting for you. Don't make him wait too long. And fer chrissakes please don't breed.
Hey, breeding is all that's left for some of us!
Seriously, I usually transport all newly inspected cylinders to the desert and refill them there. The shipping isn't that costly if you ship bulk (and via UPS). I thought everybody did that (unless of course they have one of those nifty moisture extractors).
Seriously, I usually transport all newly inspected cylinders to the desert and refill them there. The shipping isn't that costly if you ship bulk (and via UPS). I thought everybody did that (unless of course they have one of those nifty moisture extractors).
Bigd2722
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WarrenZ
The Ultimate Bad Example
Gas or USB powered?
OkByMe
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Seriously attempting to answer the question -
As long as the tank is at room temperature and at 1 ATM, there should be no consideration as to relative humidity of the air in the tank - even if it is raining outside.
Now that is different if goober the inspector, opened the valve to release the air in the tank, (thereby chilling the tank) removed the valve, eyeballed it, puttered around looking for an o-ring, re-installed the valve and placed it in line to fill with the valve still open. What you have then is a condenser unit to pull moisture out of the air. Considering the cool or even cold temperature of the tank with the valve removed, it should have started condensing and visible moisture would appear on the outside. If it is happening outside, it is happening inside too.
I always let air out very slowly, so as not to chilled the tank. I do my eyeballing and whatnot, turn the tank upside down and let it come to room temp, eyeball for moisture again before installing the closed valve and it would behoove you to at least partially fill to insure flash rust control for steel tanks.
As long as the tank is at room temperature and at 1 ATM, there should be no consideration as to relative humidity of the air in the tank - even if it is raining outside.
Now that is different if goober the inspector, opened the valve to release the air in the tank, (thereby chilling the tank) removed the valve, eyeballed it, puttered around looking for an o-ring, re-installed the valve and placed it in line to fill with the valve still open. What you have then is a condenser unit to pull moisture out of the air. Considering the cool or even cold temperature of the tank with the valve removed, it should have started condensing and visible moisture would appear on the outside. If it is happening outside, it is happening inside too.
I always let air out very slowly, so as not to chilled the tank. I do my eyeballing and whatnot, turn the tank upside down and let it come to room temp, eyeball for moisture again before installing the closed valve and it would behoove you to at least partially fill to insure flash rust control for steel tanks.
For the first fill, I use only nitrogen and argon. This displaces the moist air. I have never had a tank come back.
Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk 2
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