Goodman for Sofirn SD01 - How about this?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Badger7

Contributor
Messages
115
Reaction score
166
Location
Wisconsin
Lots of great ideas on this board guys! Here's my small contribution. A Sofirn SD01 torch is a pretty good buy for $85, with excellent brightness and a really long run time. Its also fairly heavy for a handheld and its balance is a little awkward. Mounting it to an off-the-shelf goodman makes it quite backheavy and too close to the wrist. I wanted to see if I could gin up a goodman that located center mass right over the handle, making this light a little more wieldy with plenty of room to rotate the magnetic switch. Here's some pics, and down below I'll share some details as well as links drawing and files in case you want to print one or remix it for your own taste. This is 3d printed out of ABS with 100% infill and uses standard 5/16-18 hardware:

1.jpg


2.jpg


3.jpg


4.jpg


5.jpg


TinkerCAD Drawing Link
Thingiverse .STL files

Other than the two 3D prints, this uses:
5/16-18 x 1.5" stainless flat head cap screw
5/16-18 stainless nylon locknut
5/16-18 delrin speed nut
some 4mm bungie and a bolt snap

Thoughts? Suggestions for improvement?
 
I like it. Superb!
I have an SD-01 and bought a generic from Aliexpress which ‘works’ but suffers from all the balance and mounting issues you’ve mentioned.
Going to get your design printed, a first for me. Thanks!
 
I like it. Superb!
I have an SD-01 and bought a generic from Aliexpress which ‘works’ but suffers from all the balance and mounting issues you’ve mentioned.
Going to get your design printed, a first for me. Thanks!
Nice, let me know how it works for you! First, check your hand width (with gloves if you typically wear them). The file I linked is 95mm interior width. Snug is good, but your hand needs to fit. If you are much wider than that, I'd be happy to tweak the file to whatever width you spec. Super easy to do, don't hesitate to ask.

If you're sending it out, make sure you ask for 100% infill to avoid air pockets in the print. I printed it out of ABS instead of PLA for strength, but PLA would probably be good enough. If you're going to have an acquaintance print it for you and they'd like to try using ABS too, here's some tips for what worked for me:

1) The ABS filament I was using (Gizmo Dorks) worked really well at 225c Nozzle and 85c Plate temps. Cooler temps inferior.
2) Nozzle cooling disabled for the entire print, enclosed printer
3) I used a build plate made out of PEI, the stock surface on my Adventurer 3 didn't stick well with ABS, so I peeled up the rough plate sticker and used 3M 2 sided adhesive to fix a thin plate of PEI on top instead, and then recalibrated - Recommend this for anyone using an inexpensive printer with ABS, and works fantastic for PLA too.
4) To completely prevent warping due to edge peel up when printing using ABS, I dissolve a small handful of ABS print waste in a cup of acetone, and brushed a thin layer of that onto the PEI build plate (google ABS juice for more details). The first print layer sticks to that like glue, and keeps the print locked down to the plate preventing warp. Once printed, flexing the plate still pops the print right off. Probably wouldn't attempt that with a glass build plate though. Build plate can be cleaned right up after with straight acetone.
 
Oh, and I'd be surprised if the print didn't work just as well with M8 hardware instead of imperial. 5/16" is almost exactly 8mm, which is what I think you guys use for twinset speed nuts over on the other side of the world.
 
Thanks for the tips, especially about measurements. I noticed you mentioned metric for the hand width - does that mean the print file is in mm?
 
.STL
Thanks for the tips, especially about measurements. I noticed you mentioned metric for the hand width - does that mean the print file is in mm?
Yes, I did all the measuring and design of the print in millimeters, only using imperial stainless hardware because it matched the thread of the speed nuts I had on hand that are more common stateside. Designing something complicated in fractions of an inch would make my head hurt.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom