Go Pro Mount question SRP or Tec Dive Gear

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fishstix

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I've been trying to decide between the SRP mount that has a V-shape and the Tec Dive Gear 1800 lumen set with its straight tray arm. Does anyone have issues with the straight tray arm getting into the field of view of the wide angle lens of the GoPro?

The Light Mounts for the SRP look like O-rings and pretty flimsy, where as the Tec system looks more sturdy. SRP.jpgTec.jpg
 
You saw a pic of my rig in the other thread, so won't post it here. I haven't had the problem you're asking about, but have speculated the V style helps move your lights back and so allows better illumination of near objects. With only two lights in the high position I had enough light, but near objects were sometimes missed or shadowed so I added the second, lower, pair.
 
3D Diver- So you've got a 3-D GoPro and no unwanted gear shows up in the shot? Any opinion as to whether I should get the 8" or 6" tray? What type of lights do you use? How many lumens? Do they give "hot spots" or is the light pretty diffuse? Thanks for your help!
 
One of the many reasons I like the SPR tray is that it allows me to mount multiple cameras in one tray because of the V-shape you mention. I can have one rear facing and the other camera facing forward or one up and the other down etc...

If you have issues with gear or other items showing up on the side you can always change the FOV from 170 to 127 or less. But I have never had that issue shooting at 170º

Ironically most really good light for video are more expensive than the GoPro. I really like the new SOLA 2000 s/f but they are twice the price of a new Black edition GoPro. Most of the other lights I have tried either have really bright hot spots or aren't powerful enough to use during the day.
I get better results using available daylight and filters than using less expensive lights. But I'm also diving in mostly clear blue water too.
 
I mostly shoot in medium width. The full wide setting vignettes in this housing (though one thread suggested that was condensation). I have shot in full wide angle, though, and did not see any of the lights peeking into the frame. My tray is pretty wide, though, and that likely helps. (16", I occasionally use it like a cane to help stand up or climb stairs.)

I'm using 4 DRIS 1000 lumen lights with internal holographic diffusers. Here's my build thread:

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/gopro-video/425784-my-gopro-3d-setup.html

The DRIS lights have a definite hot spot & the best solution is to open them up and either remove the reflector or add an internal diffuser. They glue them shut now to prevent this...but it's do-able, if you don't mind voiding the warranty, and are willing to swallow the $90 if something goes wrong. I was into tinkering---there are a number of LED lights out there now if you want to pay a little more up front, and tinker less.

A tray is an easy DIY with fairly basic hand tools and a GoPro tripod mount. I use Nikonos strobe arms (under $20 on ebay), but have seen a few threads here discussing attaching line-loc style arms---you just have to browse/search a bit in the light and GoPro sections.
 
I'm likely to be shooting at 1440 and 60 fps, so I can go slo mo and crop the image as needed. It sounds like the straight trays aren't really an issue with unwanted stuff in the field of view. I'm inclined to go with the Tec Dive product because it looks more robust although it's expensive compared to piecing together a system. I'm planning on taking a fairly expensive trip to Asia or the Pacific and don't want to mess up my chance to get good footage because of a "learning curve" or inferior equipment. The SRP V-shaped tray boasts of easy adjustments on the go, but I'm thinking that could also mean loose joints and such. I'm also a little wary of the SRP's 2 O-rings that attach the lights to the arms. Seems like a weak link to me. Would love to hear anyone's opinion/experience with this. And thanks to 3D Diver and LowVizWiz for their input so far!
 
The SRP handles are standard threaded handles so I'm not sure what you mean by O-rings.

The easy adjustments are really a non issue, you adjust handles and the camera position to your preference and you leave it there. Having the flexibility to adjust and or set it to your liking quickly is a plus, but it doesn't mean you have to change or that it is somehow less secured.
 
It looks like the lights are held onto the SRP arms by 2 rubber O-rings.

I fixed that by mounting ball joints to the flex arms and using standard clamps.
 
Merxlin- I appreciate your input, but can you send me links to the items that you mentioned? I feel pretty clueless about what "standard clamps" are. BTW- great quotes from Leo and Leonardo. I agree!
 

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