Gluing Drysuit to Stop Leak

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Daniel Dilley

Registered
Messages
20
Reaction score
4
# of dives
Hi Everyone

I have a drysuit which is leaking from between the legs, my new suit is being serviced and i need to fix my old suit so i can dive whilst i wait for new one.

I bought some drysuit glue (see pic attached) and was wondering the best way to apply it? I intend to just coat the inside of the suit between the legs with the glue because there are around 6 small holes which i found by inflating the suit and using soap.

What i was thinking is to lightly sand the drysuit and then apply the glue with a pain brush and leave to dry. I do not want to use patches as i already have many of them and want to coat over the old ones aswell.

Any tips and help much appreciated.
Thanks

Daniel Dilley
 

Attachments

  • 20160203_134717.jpg
    20160203_134717.jpg
    105.7 KB · Views: 65
What make and model of drysuit? What is it made of? Is there any additional layering?

Aquaseal is the best for repairs.
 
Neoprene cement is not a great choice, especially in the crotch area of the dry suit. It will pull/peel off.

If you have six well defined pin holes, then I'd cover them with Aqua seal. If however you have six holes due to generally thin and worn fabric in the crotch area, then you'll want to apply a thin layer of Aqua seal to the whole area. If the fabric is bad enough that the seams are compromised and the fabric won't take tolerate the stress and movement in that area, then the Aquaseal fix might not last long.

Aqua seal cures in about 24 hours, or you can mix it with Cotol 240 and get a full cure in about 2-3 hours. The tradeoff is that it loses some flexibility. If you're just using a dot of Aqua seal on a pin hole, use the Cotol 240 to accelerate it. If however, you are putting a thin layer over a wider area, then let it cure on it's own.

No surface prep is really needed other than ensuring the area is dry. If you're worried about oil or silicone contamination, wipe it down with acetone first.
 
Shoe goo hold better, lasts longer and costs less than aqua seal. 3M 5200 is a permanent fix that will probably never turn loose.
 

Back
Top Bottom