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Nice. It's mostly going to be DIY. There are other posts in the vintage section.
Herman has posted about what probably needs to be changed and what would be nice to be changed.
You probably need me hoses, diaphragm, wagon wheels, a rebuild kit, and s couple other parts. You're looking at a couple hundred probably to get it up to par.
Lots of fun to dive though. And that's a balanced first stage i believe so IP will remain steady throughout the tank pressure range.
Enjoy and good luck. It's fun getting these working.
As @Ghost95 said, DIY is the best approach... Both financially and so you truly understand your gear.
If the hose loop isn't usable, that's going to be the biggest single cost (about $100 total between mouthpiece and hoses), but it could be good... One of my favorite hose loops is an old original one.
The C-clips holding the cans together are a pain, so I highly recommend buying a band clamp for it ($25 last I checked).
Internal soft goods are easy... 1st stage is parts interchangeable with a Conshelf inside, and second stage takes the same basic hockey puck seat as a Conshelf or countless other unbalanced second stages.
Main diaphragm is the biggest question mark... If it's good, it will still be stiffer than a new silicone one, and the tabbed ones are sometimes harder to find. A good shape original is still dive-able, just not as responsive as new silicone.
If you want accessories (octo, BCD hose) there are a couple of cheap ways to feed those off the hookah port.
The repair manual is available in the catalogs and manuals link at the bottom of the VDH site:
I have ordered from Bryan at VDH pretty regularly, last time about a month ago. If he shows a part in stock there's a good chance he will dispatch it on his regular shipping day, which is every Wednesday. He has great prices and a good selection of hard to find items.
I have ordered from Bryan at VDH pretty regularly, last time about a month ago. If he shows a part in stock there's a good chance he will dispatch it on his regular shipping day, which is every Wednesday. He has great prices and a good selection of hard to find items.
Okay, i'll chime in here. Looking from the photo, it is possible the hoses and mouthpiece are still usable. They need to be taken off, examined for cracking and a determination made is to whether they still have the original flexibility to be used. Some of these hoses survive after all these years due to being well-stored.
The wagon wheels, which house the non-return valves in the mouthpiece, are hard plastic and normally are usable with no need to replace them. The non-return mushroom valves, however, are usually deteriorated and need to be replaced.
The duckbill in the housing exhaust horn always needs to be replaced. It can be replaced from several sources (the Scuba Museum, Vintage Scuba Supply, and Vintage Double Hose).
The mechanism for the first and second stage needs to be examined to see whether there is corrosion; if so, both the first and second stages need to be disassembled and cleaned, then reassembled. There are several threads on the VSS website that discuss how to do this.
Hello I'm the last person to finally get a US Divers Aqua-Master. Been sort of wanting one for a while and saw this rebuildable core for sale. Going by the West Pico Blvd. address and that
Overall this reg is in nice condition and I've done a few really shallow dives near my dock with it. I'd like to make sure it's tuned properly and truly dive-ready. This will be relatively new te
Yes, the nut on the back is the hookah port (oxygen B fitting).
I run mine up to 3000 psi with no issues.
Spg you could use an H valve, or just a long yoke and banjo fitting.... Or, some old valves have an HP fitting (I have a couple like that) and you run the SPG off the tank itself.
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