Getting Close to your Subject
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Jamdiver
Guest
Well since this in the underwater photography forum then i'll assume that you're speaking about underwater subjects.
I use a couple of different methods to my advantage..
So for example I know that damselfish guarding their eggs is likely to patrol a tightly confined area and won't leave until you're really close and when you are that close. Opportunistic feeders like wrasse are likely to come in and start pecking on the eggs.
Also large fish are more likely to tolerate your presence than smaller ones in my experience.
EDIT - Having very good buoyancy also helps, speaking from experience I wouldn't have been able to capture some of those christmas tree shots without being able to move very slowly in a controlled manner and hover above them to take the photo.
I use a couple of different methods to my advantage..
- Knowledge is power.
So for example I know that damselfish guarding their eggs is likely to patrol a tightly confined area and won't leave until you're really close and when you are that close. Opportunistic feeders like wrasse are likely to come in and start pecking on the eggs.
Also large fish are more likely to tolerate your presence than smaller ones in my experience.
- Move slowly. Slowly approaching a subject while breathing slowly and just being relaxed is likely to get you better shots than if you finned as fast as you could towards it. I've also heard that if you approach a fish from the side rather than head on it's more likely to tolerate your presence.
- Staying in one spot also helps because after a time whatever marine life that is present gets used to your presence and starts going about their normal business.
- Know your camera's limits and what it's capable of. Doesn't matter how much I try i'm never going to get a killer shot of a blenny or goby filling the frame without the help of a macro lens or something.
EDIT - Having very good buoyancy also helps, speaking from experience I wouldn't have been able to capture some of those christmas tree shots without being able to move very slowly in a controlled manner and hover above them to take the photo.
I think for me what has worked well is the moving slow and staying in one spot ideas. Anticipating where a fish will move to often helps too - I was watching some sharks last year on a shark dive and a few of them were going around and around in the same route, so I slowly dropped myself in the middle of their path as soon as they passed, and sure enough, they came around and right over me.
The best thing I've done to get nice and close, though, is to get a rebreather. Fish are no longer as spooked and I find are actually curious as to what I am. I've had fish bump my dome port as they come in close to see.
The best thing I've done to get nice and close, though, is to get a rebreather. Fish are no longer as spooked and I find are actually curious as to what I am. I've had fish bump my dome port as they come in close to see.
tankboygreg
Contributor
Luck! Nothing like popping up to surface and coming eye-to-eye with a sea otter or turning around to find a harbor seal nibbling on your fins. Otherwise you have to do your research and follow the methods outlined by Jam.
Number One: Excellent dive skills. Buoyancy of course is vital - and that means being able to completely control it with minimal movements and in situ as you set up a shot in any orientation. Dive skills also include knowing where your body and all kit, including guages and fins, are at all times and how your next movement will impact your position, the subject and the area around you. This all helps you "blend in" with the surrounds and the nice fishies are more likely to just keep doing what they do without perceiving you to be a threat.
Number Two: Slow down. No matter how slow you are going, you are going too fast.
This extends to your movements with your rig as well as your speed along the reef. Jerky or sudden movements aren't helpful in getting close. Really knowing your camera rig and how to change settings, check results etc will help minimize movements as well as ensuring you are ready to shoot.
Number Three: Know thy subject. Knowing some basic behaviours of your quarry will help you find it and help you predict where the best action will be. Spend some time looking through books but also spend some time just watching while you are underwater.
Number Four: Get low...but not too low. Some critters totally freak if you come at them from directly below. Others lose it when you drop right on top of them. Try for a gentle, angled low approach. Start from farther away and work your way in tighter. Use zoom when appropriate to provide personal space for your subject. Getting closer shouldn't mean that you always encroach so far as to disrupt things. Be respectful.
Number Five: Be patient. Shoot more than one frame. You don't need to shoot a frame every three seconds necessarily, but take the time to watch your subject whenever possible and take more than one shot whenever the subject allows. Consider other angles, compositions and move accordingly. Often it is a subtle difference of composition/pose that will take an image from nice to WOW. I put this in for "getting closer" as it is a vital ingredient in figuring out where to get closer.
Number Six: Dive, Dive, Dive. The more you dive and the more you carry that camera around the better results you'll get and the closer you should be able to get to many critters.
As always - have fun!
Number Two: Slow down. No matter how slow you are going, you are going too fast.
This extends to your movements with your rig as well as your speed along the reef. Jerky or sudden movements aren't helpful in getting close. Really knowing your camera rig and how to change settings, check results etc will help minimize movements as well as ensuring you are ready to shoot.
Number Three: Know thy subject. Knowing some basic behaviours of your quarry will help you find it and help you predict where the best action will be. Spend some time looking through books but also spend some time just watching while you are underwater.
Number Four: Get low...but not too low. Some critters totally freak if you come at them from directly below. Others lose it when you drop right on top of them. Try for a gentle, angled low approach. Start from farther away and work your way in tighter. Use zoom when appropriate to provide personal space for your subject. Getting closer shouldn't mean that you always encroach so far as to disrupt things. Be respectful.
Number Five: Be patient. Shoot more than one frame. You don't need to shoot a frame every three seconds necessarily, but take the time to watch your subject whenever possible and take more than one shot whenever the subject allows. Consider other angles, compositions and move accordingly. Often it is a subtle difference of composition/pose that will take an image from nice to WOW. I put this in for "getting closer" as it is a vital ingredient in figuring out where to get closer.
Number Six: Dive, Dive, Dive. The more you dive and the more you carry that camera around the better results you'll get and the closer you should be able to get to many critters.
As always - have fun!
Good advice, as always.alcina:
I would add to this point, however, to point out that the more you dive and the more you take pictures, the more likely you are to strike gold every now and then. Those "lucky shots" really add up over time, and once you've been doing it for a while you can assemble a little collection of only your best shots, and end up looking like a FAR better photographer than you really are, compared to shots from a single trip, for instance!
So far we haven't heard from Dennis or Mr. Veitch, yet. (don't worry, Mike, I'm still saving my pennies to take instruction from you, but have a trip coming up, soon, and can't wait to improve my technique)
What's up, guys?
What's up, guys?
Allison Finch
Contributor
My best tool for getting close is TOTAL patience.
One occasion with an octo had me immobile for quite a while. The octo decided I was not hostile and came out to check me out. He sat on my arm exploring me with his arms. He allowed me to stroke him, actually seeming to enjoy it. Others came up abruptly causing him to run. After they left, he came back to me since I waited quietly.
Another time I was trying to get a pic of a pygmy seahorse who refused to turn to look at me. I just waited and waited. Finally, he decided I was non hostile and gave me some great poses as he stared me down.
Be quiet and be still.
One occasion with an octo had me immobile for quite a while. The octo decided I was not hostile and came out to check me out. He sat on my arm exploring me with his arms. He allowed me to stroke him, actually seeming to enjoy it. Others came up abruptly causing him to run. After they left, he came back to me since I waited quietly.
Another time I was trying to get a pic of a pygmy seahorse who refused to turn to look at me. I just waited and waited. Finally, he decided I was non hostile and gave me some great poses as he stared me down.
Be quiet and be still.
Jamdiver
Guest
Jcsgt:
It's important to note though that those guys are using macro lens for their macro shots.
100mm, 60mm whatever, and that gives them a greater working distance to get a really nice macro shot with the subject filling the frame.
For me to replicate that short of shot would require me to be centimetres away from the subject..
Charlie99
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In addition to the common suggestions of slow and easy, I find that kind of ignoring the subject helps too. In other words, if I want to get up close to the manta or shark, I swim on an intersecting course, while seemingly unwaware of them.
My theory is that fish have learned to tell when a predator is paying attention to them and they react defensively when you approach them directly, or in some cases just stare or look at them.
Allison's suggestion of patience works in kind of the same way. If you just hang around patiently, the small critters may eventually decide that you aren't out to eat them.
My theory is that fish have learned to tell when a predator is paying attention to them and they react defensively when you approach them directly, or in some cases just stare or look at them.
Allison's suggestion of patience works in kind of the same way. If you just hang around patiently, the small critters may eventually decide that you aren't out to eat them.
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