Gear Advice - BC, regs & computer

[KevinNM]

Interesting, why is that? Consoles are too bulky?

They are bulky and heavy (which impacts trim and balance) and keep the critical info like depth and dive time where you have to work to see them. Plus they are commonly seen plowing a furrow in the reef. A wrist mounted computer like the two the OP was discussing makes it a lot easier to keep track of these.

People certainly can be a good diver using a console, but it there isn't a compelling reason (like you already own it and can't afford to replace it/just love it) why go there?

 

[ams511]

Interesting, why is that? Consoles are too bulky?

You may want to do a search on DIR/GUE and Hogartharian equipment configurations. You can also watch some Youtube videos on the subject. Dive Rite and UTD also has some videos on equipment configuration. New consoles are less bulky that the consoles of old but they still have a ridiculously long hose going to the spg. Either people drag them behind them and they bounce around the reef or put them on some type of retractor or clips them to a d-ring. Neither of which is streamlined and can cause snags. In short, in the DIR/Hogartharian configuration you use a metal SPG and a 24" HP hose. Your computer/depth gauge, compass, and timing device is worn on your wrists.

 

[USFpsychDiver]

I commend you for making thoughtful choices and seeking information. The advice you've gotten is sound. Some beginning divers might think that since s/he isn't planning dives back in caves or inside wrecks or down below 140' why use the configurations developed for that kind of diving. My experience is that once these configurations are implemented right (and it takes a bit of adjustment), the gear kind of 'vanishes into the background', leaving you free to enjoy the dive unencumbered. Retrieving a console to look at the right piece of information is more intrusive than glancing at the wrist or a bare SPG on the hip. A jacket BCD feels more like wearing a life jacket underwater where a BP/W feels like wearing nothing. These little things add up to a more enjoyable dive.

I'd probably spend most of my time investigating computers. While some may argue, the differences between regulator function is small while the difference in price is big so I tend to go for the inexpensive, ignoring the "you get what you pay for and this is your basic life support so spend large" arguments. Look around; you're not going to see many reports of accidents due to failed regs -- you do get a second stage free-flow from time-to-time or a blown o-ring, but I don't see that happening in one brand more than another. Likewise, BCs are basically a harness to hold the tank to your back and a bladder to hold air and pretty standardized ways to get air in and out of the bladder. You can pay extra (lots) for gadgets and gee-gaws and for brand names, but again, I'd go simple.

Computers, on the other hand, all work a little different to show more-or-less the same information. Most of them annoy me with their non-intuitive combinations of button-presses to set the thing up and switch between screens, and then you have to squint at them to see what they're reading in anything other than bright light. And then if you want to use a computerized dive log they charge you another $100 for a 97 cent USB cable with a proprietary connector so you can download the dives. I ended up spending a fat wad of money on a tech computer not so much to do mixed gas dives but because it was easy to use and read and it came with built-in computer connection. I don't necessarily recommend dropping $500+ on your first computer, but find one that's easy to read and use.

Have fun! A big part of the fun of diving is getting all the cool new gear.

 

[stuartv]

The RS-790 is rebadged Scubapro MK-19 with an S-555 second stage.

Are you sure about that? It was also my understanding that the Tusa R-700 (the first stage in the RS-790 package) is identical to a SP MK17. I held them both in my hands, at Coral Edge, and they sure looked identical on the outside, other than polished versus matte finish.

To the OP:

I have less dives than you, but I have recently gone through acquiring all my own gear, except tanks. After much online research, I bought most of my gear at CEA. In some cases, I paid a little bit more than I could have gotten it online for, but I felt like it was worth it to support my local shop. I did my OW training through CEA. They will, generally, match Internet prices, in the cases where they don't already meet them. Sometimes, they have stuff for cheaper on their website than it is marked in the store. You have to check that and ask them and they'll match their online price in the store.

When I was there, I also was looking at the exact same setup they offered you - the Tusa R-700 paired with a Delta 4 (or two). The Delta 4s are so cheap (there) that it was making sense to just buy the Tusa 1st stage and 2 of the Delta 4s. Octos don't get a LOT cheaper than what they're selling the Delta 4 for anyway. One thing you should be aware of is that the Delta 4 is, what Oceanic calls, "mechanically balanced". That is according to the Specs tab on this page:

Delta 4.2

Higher end second stage regs are pneumatically balanced.

So, after looking at those at CEA, I found this deal. A Hollis DC3 1st and 212 second stage for $199.

DC3-212 - Dive Right in Scuba

And I found another deal online for the 212 2nd stage by itself for $100. CEA has the DC3-212 on their website for $235. I paid that and they price-matched the additional second, so I get the whole setup for $335, plus the cost of buying a 40" octo hose. That said, I'm not sure the deal on the 212 by itself for $100 is still available anywhere online, so I'm not sure if CEA will still match that. If they would not have matched it for me (or come close), I would have just ordered 2 of the complete sets from DRIS for $400 and had myself a spare 1st stage. Or sold the spare.

The Hollis setup is a sealed diaphragm 1 stage, like the Tusa R-700/SP MK17, so it has the same cold water and maintenance benefits. And the Hollis 212 is pneumatically balanced. Given that I couldn't just try them both, and given my lack of experience to steer me otherwise, with both being of comparable price, I went for the setup with better specs.

For computers, CEA has the Oceanic Atom 3.0 for $555 (last I checked - when I bought mine in Dec). The 3.0 is exactly same as the 3.1 except that the 3.1 has the Buddy Check feature removed because of a patent infringement lawsuit. That $555 includes the wireless air pressure transmitter and the data cable for downloading dive data to your home computer or laptop. IF (and that's a big if) you want wireless air integration, that deal would be HARD to beat. Be aware that data cables for most dive computers typically run $90 - 100 just by themselves. Unless, of course, you buy a computer that downloads via Bluetooth, NFC, or infrared.

OTOH, if you want to spend less and go with a console, I found the Aeris A300 XT console (SPG, computer, and compass) for $235, new, from an authorized dealer. I bought one of those for my g/f to use. She did not want a wrist computer. The A300 computer is fully-featured, including supporting Nitrox and having Gauge mode, which many here on SB say you should look for in a first computer, so that it can serve you as a backup if/when you move on to more advanced diving. It appears that the place I bought mine from doesn't have any left, but maybe other places will be starting to blow them out soon. That seems to be happening with Aeris computers in general right now. I've heard a rumor that AUP is doing away with the Aeris name and rolling all their computers over to the Oceanic brand line.

I will put the A300 console on my reg set, for backup purposes (and so I have a compass), when my g/f is not diving with me. I dove it in the pool yesterday. I used a dog bone clip (like a two-ended bolt snap) to clip it to a D-ring on my left side and it was fine with no dangling, so no chance of dragging the bottom. I'm not sure why people run down consoles as a "dragging" issue. It's certainly not hard to secure it where it won't drag and the hose poses no more entanglement problem than the hose for just an SPG. Either way, it's one hose from your reg down to your left side. But, I'm more of a newb than you, so maybe the size of the console itself somehow increases the entanglement risk. But I digress...

As for BCs, CEA definitely also has backplate and wing setups, including Hollis, Dive Rite, Oxycheq, and ScubaPro (at least). I'm sure they will be happy to show you that stuff and let you compare it to "regular" BCDs. I think their biggest problem at CEA is that they have SO much stuff that it's not practical for them to go over EVERY single option you have, so they tend to try and assess the customer and help them go in the direction that the person already seems inclined towards. If you show some interest in jacket BCDs, then that's what they'll show you. If you express an interest in BP/Ws, I am SURE they will be happy to talk your ear off about it. Especially if you can catch Jim (one of the owners, a nice, friendly guy, an accomplished scientific diver, and a BP/W-lover) there.

Personally, I ended up with a Deep Sea Supply BP/W and I'm very happy with it. I think it has some nice features that I haven't seen on any other brand. But, I don't know if there's any way to get a DSS setup other than order it from them (out in CA). If you want to look at my DSS rig, you are welcome to check it out. I live right in between Manassas and Gainesville, so only a few miles from CEA. I did not get my BP/W at CEA. I happened upon an amazing CL deal for mine.

CEA also has some smokin' deals on new wetsuits right now, too, if you're in the market for that also. And they're blowing out Lavacore gear for cheap, too. I got a new ScubaPro EverFlex 3/2 suit there for $160. I dove it down around Cozumel in December and it was awesome. Plenty warm. I tried comparable Akona and Cressi suits that I ordered from LeisurePro and the EverFlex fit me the best and had the best complement of seals (wrist, ankle, neck, and back).

ps. the reg set from DRIS is for DIN valves. The Hollis set from CEA is for Yoke. If you get DIN, you can order a DIN-to-Yoke adapter from $20 from Dive Gear Express.

https://www.divegearexpress.com/regulators/regacc.shtml#2531

I went with the DIN setup and bought an adapter for just in case. The place I dove with down in Mexico had DIN and yoke tanks, diver's choice. Actually, they were all convertible valves. And the local shops here will rent tanks with either for the same price. So, it may be worth noting that if you get a Yoke first stage, you won't be able to use it on a DIN-only tank without having it first converted (by a shop) to DIN. OTOH, if you buy a DIN first stage and a $20 adapter, you can use it on any tank, anywhere you go.

---------- Post added February 9th, 2015 at 02:54 PM ----------

ps. if you do want a console computer, I just saw an Oceanic ProPlus 2.1 (with quick-detach fitting, and compass) in the ScubaBoard Classifieds for $250.

But, you should be aware that most dive computers (most scuba gear?) are only warrantied to the original owner. So, buying one used means you get no warranty at all. Which, for things like computers, is one reason why resale on most them is so bad. From what I hear about Shearwater, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a used Shearwater computer. But, for other brands, I would really weigh the cost/benefit carefully before buying used.

 

[blueorbdiving]

A great 4 part article on buying a new or used BCD...might have some good input for you? https://usedscubaequipment.wordpres...-1-a-comprehensive-series-on-buying-your-bcd/