fundies report

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Rivers... With D12s.. du you use a 4kg Tailweight? Or du you use a Pweight?

You could actually be in the position that you are very front heavy, and not so much bottom light.
 
2kg on a belt. And fabers are very head heavy
 
Try them with a 4kg tailweight instead. I think you will notice a difference. I have a set of D12 concave.. use a 4kg tailweight. They are absolutely gorgeous to dive.
 
One of the things that surprised me to learn was that, if I hung a weight off the bottom bolt, it was well below my waist, so it gave a lot more balance to head-heaviness than a weight belt would do. For diving in MX with Al80s (very butt light as they empty) I use a 7 lb weight that is hanging on a cord so that it is as low as it can be and still let me sit down in my tanks.
 
I could use a 4kg tail weight, but then I'd be over weight by 2kg. My twinset weighs as much as I do, I don't need to be adding anything else to it. I could also switch to euro cylinders, which are longer and less head heavy than my fabers. Or I can keep my legs at a 120 degree angle (which doesn't require me buying any more kit). I appreciate the tips and advice, but I'm comfortable in my kit. I'm 5'3, 125lbs. There will always be something I'll have to compensate for while diving due to my size. Whether its knee angle or how many stages I'll eventually be able to carry. I have friends who aren't able to trim out fabers or even concave bottom euros. It happens. But, I can trim out mine.
 
I don't see the problem. There's no requirement to have the knees at 90 degrees. They just need to be bent enough to get the fins up out of the bottom. Leg position is one of the things you can vary in order to balance yourself in the water.

I didn't say there was a problem, although IMO having your feet too far back will affect kicking efficiency and/or balance/trim

The OP mentioned floaty feet due to "the combination of neoprene socks and wet boots", so I made some unsolicited comments. Only then did they mention being 5'3" & using double 12s

I'm a little surprised that someone who has taken Fundies twice would react the way they did to receiving advice but whatever... I honestly couldn't care less how they dive, was just trying to be helpful. I notice others, including you, have chimed in with advice about shifting weight so seems I'm not the only one who thinks there might be some scope for improvement
 
Last edited:
I have no problem receiving advice. My main issue with where this thread has gone is because people seem overly concerned with the fact my legs aren't bent at a perfect 90 degree angle, but 120 for me to be stable in the water. I can still propel myself fine through the water, it's actually easier because I'm stable and not constantly fighting. Put me in a single tank and my legs will be bent at a 90 degree angle. hell, i have video from nemo 33 a few weeks back where I'm in a standard jacket and 12L dumpy with no exposure protection in perfect trim with my knees bent at 90 degrees. Having my knees at 90 degrees in my twinset affected my balance and trim. horribly. Having my legs bent at a slightly bigger angle is advice I received from my instructor, and it solved the problem immediately. I could lose my belt and try a tail weight. It might work, it might put me back at square one. It will also make my twinset heavier. I wear 2kg in fresh water. Would it make that much of a difference? I can swap back to my chucks as opposed to my wetsuit boots, i could move my 2 kgs all over. It might help, it might not help. or i can just keep things status quo, and do what i know works. and go diving :)
 
i can just keep things status quo, and do what i know works. and go diving :)

Again, I would have thought this is the opposite of what Fundies is all about, but go for it
 
Again, I would have thought this is the opposite of what Fundies is all about, but go for it
How is keeping my knees bent at 120 instead of constantly making changes to kit opposite of what Fundies is about? Fundies is a about creating a solid and stable platform, skill refinement and working as a team. It is not about making a million changes to your kit in order to achieve 'perfect cave diving form'. Instructors actively discourage making any changes to your kit through the course besides harness and d-ring adjustments
 
I'm sorry if you think I was suggesting there was anything wrong with holding your legs the way you are doing it. There isn't.

I share your challenges with being very short and slight and carrying doubles. Unlike the tall men, who have HUGE lever arms of legs out behind them, you and I are basically a set of tanks with feet and a head sticking out of them. There isn't a lot of room to use body position for trim. If extending your knees a little bit fixes the issue, that's splendid.

I tried yesterday to find a couple of recent photos I had seen, of T2 divers hovering with their legs in precisely the position you are describing, but I couldn't find them. There is NO prescription for a 90 degree bend in the knees. And there is nothing wrong with doing what works, if it doesn't cause an issue elsewhere. Despite what many people think, GUE diving is not that prescriptive and is really pretty pragmatic.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

Back
Top Bottom