From Enthusiasm to Confusion

[10X]

I bought a C5050 a couple of years ago, just before becoming certified. I didn't even know that a housing existed for this camera, but I bought a PT-015 when I found out they did. My first real underwater expereince with this camera was in Hawaii, earlier this year and I fell in love with taking pictures underwater. I bought Paintshop Pro for processing.

I visit this board almost daily, trying to glean as much of the tons of available information you guys have, as possible.

I practice using the manual mode, I bought a white dive slate to set white balance underwater, I bought 1 gb compact flash card to hold tons more pictures, bought a laptop and portable printer to take with me, and even saved $3000 to purchase some "extras", which we all know we can't have too many of.

At the top of my list for "extras" was a tray/strobe/arms, etc. However, my enthusiasm is waning, mostly due to confusion. Inon/Ikelite/Fisheye/ULCS/dome ports/WAL/TTL/Macro/sync cords/internal flash/slave mode/pre-flash/One strobe/two strobes/trays/arms/fiber optic cables/diffusers/internal flash use/no internal flash use/blocking pre-flash....... my head is spinning.

Ryan advertises strobe packages that are ready to go, that are reasonably priced and he says they are complete. Yuzo offers a whole set of different options. Ikelite's customer service seems to be the best of the best. However, I still see posts where someone has bought a package and just can't seem to get it setup right.

I'm about ready to just keep taking pictures with the internal flash and chuck the rest of my plans. It's beginning to sound waaayy tooooo complicated.

Did anyone else feel this way before buying their "extras"?

I have the money and I'm ready to buy, but something just keeps nagging me not to.

Any advice?

 

[rad21]

Hi 10X,

You are not alone. I went from a Sea & Sea MX10/YS40A which was a simple easy to assemble, easy to use camera to an Oly 5050 with the PT015 housing. Many of the divers/photographers that post here dive quite often. Like our friend Gilligan who provides us with our daily fix of UW photos. I only get to take a couple of dive trips a year. I did buy an arm and tray just because I found it easier to handle the camera but I am holding off on the strobe just like you. Since I don't get to use the camera underwater that much, each time I prepare for a trip, it's a major learning curve- don't forget the dessicant, charger, spare batteries, set up My Modes, check 2 o-rings... These items become second nature to the regulars that post here but for some of us, we need to prepare weeks in advance to remember all the details. It can be overwhelming and since I want to enjoy my dives when I do take a trip, it's nice to focus on the dive , not the equipment. I was pleasantly surprised with the results I got from just the 5050 with internal flash. A little adjustment in Photoshop Elements and I got some very nice photos that I could show to my friends. I will never take photos in the same class as Gilligan but I can still get enjoyment from the basic digital setup that I have. I do agree that digital is the way to go but your experience, number of dives and budget should determine how much of a "rig" you really need. How comfortable are you with your camera now? Are you satisfied with the photos you have taken? How many dive trips do you take each year? I have other hobbies as well so I need to balance my investment/time and energy to enjoy these hobbies without becoming overwhelmed.

 

[justleesa]

When my SO came back from DEMA last year he brought me back the paperwork on the Inon strobes. I knew right then and there that is what I wanted. I went to Inons website and saw some of the pictures that were posted there. The photographer was using a 5050. Like me! So I just wrote to him. He wrote back and was very helpful giving me tips and pointers. He said if you want to get better pictures you have to take the next step - a Stobe, then two strobes....
Right now I am at the one strobe stage. I do admitt that I sometimes miss my smaller, lighter, more compact set up.....but that is just because I have to lug it...lol! BUT I am happy with the quality that I am now getting and am looking forward to taking the next step.

 

[RonFrank]

.

I practice using the manual mode, I bought a white dive slate to set white balance underwater....

At the top of my list for "extras" was a tray/strobe/arms, etc. However, my enthusiasm is waning, mostly due to confusion. Inon/Ikelite/Fisheye/ULCS/dome ports/WAL/TTL/Macro/sync cords/internal flash/slave mode/pre-flash/One strobe/two strobes/trays/arms/fiber
I'm about ready to just keep taking pictures with the internal flash and chuck the rest of my plans. It's beginning to sound waaayy tooooo complicated.

Did anyone else feel this way before buying their "extras"?

I have the money and I'm ready to buy, but something just keeps nagging me not to.

Any advice?

I do NOT shoot the Olympus 5050, or even underwater. That said, I've done professional photography for over two decades, and I keep up. I've also been looking at UW photography options. I currently shoot with a D1x (nikon), and UW housing for that camera is absurd (5K)... so I'm looking at other options...

Here are some thoughts:

First TTL. TTL in digital is getting better, but TTL has NEVER been perfect, or even close. The camera housing you own (based on my research) does NOT support an external flash connection, so anything labeled TTL by a external UW flash maker, is basically NOT TTL, but more like an Auto mode flash with your housing.

Flash used as a primary light source in any environment is going to provide proper exposure based on ONE focal distance. IOW's if you adjust the flash to properly exposure something at 3', anything included in the image closer then 3' is going to be overexposed, and anything behind that distance will be under exposed. How much underexposure will depend upon the ambiant light, and if you balance the flash with that setting.

Internal flash on the Oly is VERY small, but is truely TTL, and will generlly handle exposure well within the limits of the flash. If you are shooting at close distances with good available light, that flash maybe your best bet. Unfortunately it will NOT provide you with the power to shoot at apertures that may be desired to get enough DOF to produce overall sharp images in lower light situations.

Flash photography in any environment is NOT something one can master overnight. IMO this will be more true with UW equipment.

Digital with the instant preview makes the learning process MUCH easier. However if you are really wanting to take the UW photography into a place that is not possible without strobes, expect a learning curve, and you best start tackeling all those terms that you are finding confusing.

A good approach is to find someone using your camera and housing who's photography you admire, and just purchase their flash setup. Then learn that setup!

Another thing to consider is to shoot RAW. Oly has recently stepped up, and provided RAW conversion utilities which allow Color Temp to be adjusted. IMO that is huge, and should allow MUCH better flexibility in environments where ColorTemp is hard to determine, and wil change with factors like depth.

Good Luck, and hope this helps...

Ron

 

[sharkdiver00]

Hi there, like you I did months of research before I even decided on a camera to buy. I know the amount of information out there is mind boggling, but go and look around in www.wetpixel.com and www.digitaldiver.net both sites have lots of information with extremely helpful people that will take you by the hand and help you sort out your options.

Ryan is incredibly knowledgeable and will spend lots of time with you if you give him a ring or email him.

From the research I did, I kept several of the articles and reviews on trays and strobes for future reading/studying. PM if you would like me to send you links.

Maria

 

[Gilligan]

Try to keep it as simple as possible 10X. I have been there like all the others.
You already have the 5050 and PT-015 so build on it.
Sync cords for a strobe are out as the PT-015 doesn't support it.
A simple tray and handle is one using the loc-line joints or the ULCS arms. I use the loc-line joints.
The Inon D-180 strobe works with almost all pre-flash digital cameras and so does the Sea&Sea YS90DX. The Inon D-180 has a built in focus light which I use regularly, even in the daytime.
If you think you will want a wide angle lens and/or close-up lens now or down the road, then get a tray that will support that.

In the end I built my own rig as I already had a handle/tray that I was using for my C4000 and PT-010 even w/o a strobe.

I just finished making a new tray from a piece of 1/8" X 1 & 1/2" piece of aluminum It amounted to nothing more than bending it in a vice and joining it at the start and end with a bolt that holds the strobe base.
I couldn't find a tray that would easily, safely, and comfortably accomodate two lens docks and my strobe. I made this tray so that I can operate the camera with one hand. I can hold the right handle and work the shutter and zoom controls without holding the left handle. I felt this was a definite plus in strong current as I could use my plastic tent peg to dig into the sand and hold on with while I took a photo. I wear the tent peg on my left wrist on a lanyard so it's there when I need it. I'll post a pic of the rig as soon as my close-up lens and second lens dock arrives.

The cost of the tray was under $30. depending on what you use to pad the handle areas of the aluminum with.

 

[Dee]

10X...Welcome to the club! We've all felt the same confusion and frustration.

Don't feel pressured into getting a strobe until you know you're ready for one. You can take some fantastice photos without one as long as you know and follow the limitations of your internal flash. Basically this means keeping your subject within 30-36", the closer the better, and being aware of the particulate in the water that can cause backscatter. Oh, and get a good editing program like Photoshop Elements ($99).

Gilligan, Lisa and I all decided on the Inon 180-D for basically the same reasons, I think. It's small, very powerful, has the built-in focusing light and works fantastically with our PT-15 housings. I also love the Loc-line arms. I started using them about 6 years ago with my old film system. They are simple, lightweight, and extremely easy to use as well as very sturdy. I've tried the ULCS arms and didn't care for them at all. Same with the Fish-Eye tray or Inon Digital tray...it's simple, small, and does the job. Can you see the consistancy? Simple, small and easy to use....that's always my bottom line when decided on any 'extras' for my rig.

Most of us aren't lucky enough to dive daily like Gilligan does so in order to keep in practice I use my camera topside alot and in our local lake. Even if it's only to get shots of bugs in the yard! I keep very few of these pictures but the experience I gain from them makes them very important. The last few years I've only gotten to take one trip a year to clear salt water. This year I won't have anything new to get used to, no challenge of learning a new system and I am sooo looking forward to that!

You can't go wrong buying from Ryan or Yuzo. Not to take anything away from Ikelite, but Ryans customer service is equal to it, no matter which brand you buy from him. He and Yuzo both are great about working with you to help you decide which 'extras' will work best for you and the goal you have...whether that means upgrading to a bigger/better system in the future or keeping it simple and easy while at the same time getting those great results you see.

Remember, the camera system you use doesn't guarantee great photos, it's the eye and patience behind that camera that does that. Gilligan is a good example. He's using a camera that's been discontinued for a couple of years in one of the first affordable housings on the market. And I would choose alot of his photos over most I've seen from fancy rigs that cost 4 times as much. His secret? Knowing his camera inside and out, knowing how to get the best from it and using it frequently. We can all learn from him....practice, practice, practice....above and below the water.

 

[10X]

I want to take the time to thank each of that responded to my post. You each provided a different, yet positive, prospective. I think you've convinced me that this might not be as confusing as it seems and that upgrading will eventually be a good thing. Plus I can always bug you for help as I need it, right?

Diving season in Michigan is quickly coming to an end (I don't ice dive) so I don't think I will have much time to learn the system this year.

In February I'm going a 10 day Tahiti cruise, followed by 8 days on Maui. I had hoped I could be ready by then, but I don't think I have the time to learn what I need to know about the strobe before we leave. Perhaps I'll stay will what I have for this trip, and be ready for 2 weeks in Hawaii in 2006.

Thanks again, I appreciate your responses.