for beginners - strobe positioning

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When you were starting out, how did you get a handle on the variables? Did you just set most of the parameters to some fixed value and work with one variable at a time?

Peter[/QUOTE]

Hi Peter

adding a strobe will allow you to get some real good stuff, BUT it requires a lot more practice to get right.

here are some suggestions

first you need to understand how your strobe works and also how its power settings work with different apertures and distance. there should be a chart in the manual. feel free to PM me with your setup info and I may be able to get you in the ballpark if I have access the the manuals

Many times, new photographers try to go and shoot everything from Macro to wide on a single dive. this will make it very difficult to learn!

First concentrate on a single type on shooting based on subject distance. I suggest macro to start! then set your camera aperture to match one of the power settings on the strobe based on the subject distance. then start shooting. If your camera is digital do not worry about what you shoot at first. take a shot, check the results and make a aperture or strobe power adjustment to correct the exposure. with macro adjusting the strobe distance will also have a effect on the flash exposure. to bright back it off, not enough get it closer. try to avoid pointing at the subject, aim it past above. do this untill you see the best results

once you have it dialed in then look for some subjects. that fit within your type of shooting
 
forgot something important regarding the strobe setting chart

you also need to know the ASA value ( film speed ) inorder to use the settings. digi cams allow this to be adjusted in most cases.

for macro, I suggest 100 asa.

chris

am working on some more begginner threads addressing basic exposure control. (aperture, shutter speed ) hope to get them posted soon
 
Thanks Chris.
One thought - is there any value in rehearsing this whole thing on dry land? I get a lot more opportunity to do that, of course.
Or does the different light absorption characteristic of water make it a useless enterprise?

Peter
 
For macro working in air may get you in the ballpark but you will most lilely need to reduce flash output a bit or open the aperture up, once in the water.

otherwise not worth trying on land
 
Hello, i was wondering if you are shooting your strobe in ttl mode, this is great topside but underwater ttl gets fooled by the bluewater. I find manual strobing works the best. Especially when you understand f stops iso speeds.

regtech
 
Hi,

I shoot everything manual as that gives me much more control over the exposure. Topside I use it often and make adjustments via the "flash compensation" control on the camera.
 
Hey, I'm back! My strobes are here. I have two SB-105's, but only a single sync cord. Should I just use manual settings and slave one? And if I do, do I need to bump down the power on the strobes, or just use the ones on the chart be careful not to overlap them?
 
Scubakevdm:
Hey, I'm back! My strobes are here. I have two SB-105's, but only a single sync cord. Should I just use manual settings and slave one? And if I do, do I need to bump down the power on the strobes, or just use the ones on the chart be careful not to overlap them?

Manual works best, I find that using the strobes with diffusers produces better results. I usually use 1/4 power for most situations unless shooting very wide angle
 
Chris Bangs:
Manual works best, I find that using the strobes with diffusers produces better results. I usually use 1/4 power for most situations unless shooting very wide angle

Hey thanks man! Hopefully tomorrow the wind will subside and I'll get to try it out. I must say though, that I was very surprised by the amount of light that made it to the film in my sans strobe efforts.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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